how do i repair seal on la350 bucket cylinder ?

The seals are leaking on the tilt cylinders on my la350 bucket. It looks like i need a spaner wrench to remove the end piece. Is there any trick i should know before attempting the seal replacement? Is there a link to see a diagram before i start?

I don't have any idea, but am interested in how you make out. I have a hydro cylinder on my herbicide boom that leaks some, & I've been wondering how hard it is to re-build.
Good luck, & remember the pictures!

I'm with redneck. If you attempt it, post pictures and instructions.

I have a seal on a cylinder of my FEL that is leaking and I can't find anybody around here who rebuilds them. It's not too bad, just annoying and messy. At present I have one of those oil absorbent diapers wrapped round it and tie-wrapped on. It's not pretty but it's effective.

I dont know if its ok to post a link to another forum or not so please delete if you need to . I,m not sure if this will even help . But the first link is from the forum & the 2nd link is to the photos a guy posted that resealed his cylinders .


http://ctocf.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=jinma&thread=1477&page=1

http://s776.photobucket.com/albums/yy43/damoran42/?action=view&current=IMG_1368.jpg

forest dweller said:

The seals are leaking on the tilt cylinders on my la350 bucket. It looks like I need a spanner wrench to remove the end piece.

Click to expand...

I asked my local hydraulic shop how they take them apart. He said if they don't have the right spanner then they use a giant pipe wrench. So that's what I did on mine. It left some ugly marks but nothing that harmed the function.

Leave the cylinder installed on the tractor while loosening the end cap so you have something to pull against. I put a wedge between the cylinder and the loader arm so this wrench force didn't bear entirely on the shaft seal.

After the piston/rod assembly is separated from the cylinder, reinstall the piston/rod, shielded from damage by rags or something, to its end shaft so you can unscrew the nut securing the piston. That nut is torqued on pretty tight. And you may need a gear puller to get the piston off the end of the shaft.

I took in just the piston and the end cap containing its seal. They installed the 'piston ring' glands and the shaft seal in the end cap. Cost was minimal, I think under $20.

My previous visit to them, they charged me $165 when I took in a cylinder and just said to fix it. That one was returned to me with pipe wrench marks too.

It occurred to me it might be easy to build a spanner that won't leave marks. Weld a round punch that just fits the end cap's spanner holes, into a hole in a steel strap. Wrap the strap around the end cap and turn the whole thing with a giant pipe wrench.

Cowboy said:

I don't know if its ok to post a link to another forum or not so please delete if you need to

Click to expand...

That is a great link. Joe's link to a further thread, as well as the primary thread, are both very helpful.

Moderator hat on for a moment - IMHO a link to something helpful, that simply responds to another poster's technical question, is welcome.
Doc if I spoke out of turn, please advise!

I have used a air chisel with a point end.
Works about have the time and if not makes it easyer with the pipe wrench.

Art

You can indeed make your own wrench. Back when my Dad had his hydraulic steering business for marine vessels in the Gulf , he was always putting together cylinders . Some like to lift the pilot houses were 3 stage. They were made this way so the tow boats pilot house could be lowered to go under bridges when coming into the inland waterways. What he did was cut out of flat iron a wrench type profile and drill holes that would line up where needed on the cylinder. high strength small bolts could then be used to loosen the cylinder end or pins (as mentioned) could be welded on. A Y shaped wrench with a carriage head bolt at the bottom of the Y angle would make a more adjustable wrench. I think he sometimes used a cheater pipe slipped over the end of the wrench to get more torque on the hard ones. Use plenty of rags to avoid dinging or getting tiny trash under any seals. I sure regret not paying attention to more of what he did. Bordercollie

Thanks all for the great info! I have ordered the repair kits from Messicks and will let you know how I make out. I'll try to take pictures as I go. Thanks again everyone for the input.
Forest Dweller