View Full Version : GT 235 wont turn over.

03-18-2011, 04:58 PM
I have a John Deere GT 235. it ran out of gas while i was riding it. I filled with gas but it did not start. I did notice that the fuel line leading to the carburetor was leaking. I replaced the fuel line but it still does not start. When I spray the starter spray into the carburetor it turns over and then shuts off. Now I noticed that the tube that is below the front of the carburetor is dripping (see Pic) any suggestions.

03-19-2011, 02:35 AM
Turn off the fuel line petcock. If it doesn't have one, and the fuel line is rubber, clamp vicegrips on it to stop flow of gas. The carb is usually in the full throttle position by the governor, but if it isn't, open the throttle all the way. Crank a few times and it should start. Wait a minute or two and open the gas line. Of course, if you manually opened to full throttle you'll want to back that off as soon as it starts. New plugs may also help, but the main issue is a stuck float needle probably. If gas runs out the carb after shutting it down, tap gently on the carb with a wrench to jiggle the needle loose. When you ran out of gas the last ounces may have carried sediment into that needle seat and is holding it open. Usually it passes into the bowl, but if not, you may have to open the carb to clean it. Usually no big deal. Personally, I don't replace the gaskets unless they're in bad shape. I keep a tube of gasket-maker for sealing small gasket breaks. Good luck, Gary66

03-20-2011, 08:24 PM
Thanks for reply. I tried to tap but it did not work. The fuel pump is working. I took off the carb. but haven't taken apart yet. I just removed the selinoid and some gas came out the bottom but not much. that seems to me that gas is getting into the bowl but not shooting up to get it started. How do i clean it. Can i take the bowl off. The diagram on the briggs and stratton http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=briggs_and_stratton&mn=350777-1137-E1&dn=22640006A states a new carb is not available but it seems to come apart. Should i try to take apart and clean or look at after market to see if i find the whole carb. thanks


03-20-2011, 09:47 PM
traffic scout, I wouldn't buy one until I tried to clean it-if that is the problem. I had a B&S engine on the old pressure washer with similar symptoms . I took off the carb and cleaned it with carb and choke cleaner available at most any auto store or wally world.The attached straw will work wonders on blasting out the minute trash in the carb crevices and holes ) . Just remember how everything goes back- the number of turns on the adjustment /set screws etc... I also used a little compressed air to give it a once over after spraying with the cleaner. I had another engine that I had to replace the magnitron on because of a very weak spark. $39 for that... it adds up quick unless you are sure of what is wrong. Does this engine have a fuel filter and does the spark plug have a good spark when you test it- by removing it from the hole but leaving the wire attached -,while looking at the gap in the plug end for a spark, as you try to start? Oh yea, don't touch a spark plug when trying to start! bordercollie

03-21-2011, 12:50 AM
I agree with Bordercollie, and since you already have the carb off you might as well clean it. You didn't mention whether you stoped the gas line from the carb to see if it would start once the flooding was controlled.
For reasons I don't know, sometimes I find spark plugs fire great but still don't work. Dunno why, so I would definitely just replace the plug (s).
Generally carbs are all the same, and simple at that. Since I suspect the problem is at the initial intake float needle causing flooding (indicated by the gas running out the overflow tube) I suggest you hold the carb upright and blow into the gas line connection. Probably most of the gas ran out during the process of removing the carb, or while turning it over to admire it. So, when you blow it should let the air thru. Then, turn it over and blow. You shouldn't be able to blow thru it upside down. If you can...that indicates the needle is indeed stuck off the seat. Although I would go ahead with the thorough cleaning of the whole carb, you seem reluctant, so you could simply remove the bowl, then the float pivot pin, then the needle should drop out. Clean that orifice and put the float back in so you can do the blow test again. For your comfort, that might solve the problem without you having to go further. An engine will usually start with the needle jets turned out one and a half turns, then you can dial it in. That part won't be an issue, however, if you don't clean the whole carb.

03-21-2011, 11:01 AM
While thinking about it, to keep the fuel clean after you are finished, consider installing a 'settlement bowl (http://www.jackssmallengines.com/CLINTON/Fuel-Filter.prices)' in line. I have a Kawasaki Mule about 20 years old, has a fair amount of rust in the tank, and when it would get low on fuel I would get water & trash in the carb, even with the filter. I installed the settlement bowl several months ago, & haven't had a problem since. And yea, there is a lot of trash in the bottom of that glass bowl now that I would have had to clean outta the carb about 4 times so far. (Yea, I know, I need to clean & re-line the tank before a rust-thru, but as time permits.)

03-21-2011, 01:42 PM
Thanks guys. I going to try all the above suggestions. I took pictures at every step to help put it back together. That should be fun. Once again thanks.

03-28-2011, 12:23 PM
Thanks guys! Got it running after a good carb cleaning. Found pieces of rubber from the old fuel line in carb. I may replace all the old fuel lines from the filter to the pump to be safe.

Funny story. The bottom of the bowel on carb is screwed in place with the solenoid. I took out the solenoid and replaced with a screw just to see if the solenoid was bad. Sure enough I got it running so i figured that the solenoid was bad. But then I noticed that when i had the screw in place the front choke was closed. All times before it was wide open because i had been spraying starter spray. So I replaced the solenoid and this time kept the front choke plate closed and it started right up. Therefore, the problem was just a dirty carb/stuck float and an idiot that kept the choke plate wide open.

03-28-2011, 11:02 PM

03-29-2011, 01:10 AM
Good to hear that you are up and rolling. New Fuel line is cheap and old lines cause a lot of grief- cracking and sucking air -sometimes causing lose of prime.A wise decision to check into replacing them. Bordercollie