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The rtv 1100 doesn't have a fan. But the water pump belt is adjusted with the alternator i think.

You are air locked. Dont run it that way. The new models have several air bleeds because of this. Probably should drain and add back very slowly until you get the same amount back in.

If yours has the rear axles with the cross shafts grease them regularly and get a coast valve or adjust the bypass for soft stops.

Also keep a close eye on the engine cooling system. Never let it overheat or the head cracks. Usually just keep the crap blown out of the radiator and frequently check the expansion tank. Run it hard they like to run at 3800 rpm all the time for many many thousands of hours .

On the rtv for long service life always use kubota sudtII AND none other brand. Use oem filters. Change the hst oil at least every second year unless you reach the service intervals in hours first. Don't wait for the hours. And if you must clean the engine transmission don't use water. Use...

Please remind me what the manual says about the relief valve and spring? Does the manual give a length spec for the spring? The redundant question.. has the oil been changed and replaced with sudt and are the filters oem and in the correct position.

Maybe if you know the description you could have a hose made and take it with you? Jic ends? Or what? And length?

Look at the shifter assembly on the trans. One lever moves the shifter left and right the other forward or backwards. Notice when you use the shift lever on the dash that the lever will move the cables differently. Put the transmission and confirm neutral then confirm the shift lever is in a...

You have a kubota rtv 900 model that is made before the X 900. Your mate probably has the shift forks out of alignment. Remove the bolts from around the shift assembly in your pictures and remove straight up. With a long screw driver slide the gears into neutral and then match the shift forks...

What you describe is pretty much normal. You aren't going to be able to lug the engine much if any. Your pressure is good. It is what it is.

Now that you have photos? Use them as a time stamp. Run the engine but don't drive it and see wich one of the numbers advances by tenths and wich one stays unchanged. The one that changes will be hours

Your pressure sounds ok. There are limits to how high you can go before cracking the case though. Have you done the peddle and hst speed lever adjustment? Did your engine hold 3800 at stall?

That doesn't work with a diesel.

Sucking air. Probably didn't need injectors. Could be a hose collapse

You can visually verify the tops of the pistons and cylinder walls. I wouldn't worry about the bottom. Cracked heads are common after a coolant loss.

Usually the head will crack so be prepared to have it checked. It's a good idea to pull the injectors.

i would consider just changing out the battery with an agm type that has an increased amp hour rating. There is plenty of room in the tray.

Before you check pressure. Check the max no load rpm of the engine. Set it to 3800 rpm. Also check the peddle hst and rpm rationship to make sure that is in spec or all the rest may be for nothing.

It's those little round steel balls and bits of bearing cage that really get ya going 😉

It isn't meant to be left in 4wd all the time.