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The genuine radiator was £450 or aftermarket £80......! Ive gone for the genuine pump based on guidance re alignment and aftermarket radiator as its relatively easy to get to and swap out if it fails. Re the pump, should I use gasket paste on the gasket or just the gasket on its own? Thanks

Aligned on the vertical plane, which I have little influence, or each pulley set as a specific position before the belt is installed? Thanks

I see alot of aftermarket parts on amazon and ebay.... does everyone steer away and stick to genuine parts?

I must admit that I did use distilled water to fill the system at service but with a regular leak ended up topping up on occasion with tap water...Will make sure I refill using distilled and antifreeze. When putting back together do pulleys need to be aligned? I noticed markings on the lower...

Thanks, should I flush the system with anything in particular or just drain and renew with antifreeze?

That would make sense...I've been meaning to replace the radiator as I'm not getting a good seal at the neck/radiator cap....during summer months I was topping up with water but as we came into winter I did put in antifreeze. I'll replace the pump for piece of mind and also replace the radiator...

Maybe answered my own question!!

Hi folks, I have a water leak in my RTV 900. Seat coover stripped and noticed it was coming from water pump area. Removed water pump and noticed it was leaking from a hole in the casing. It was dirty when I took it off so thought it had cracked or corroded but as I cleaned the pump I noticed the...

Yes you are right...I think I was trying to convince myself otherwise to save time and money!! How easy/difficult is it to remove bearings within rear axle housings? May as well do that while shaft is out? Thanks

Photos of outer shaft splines.

HST all back together and holding oil. About to put rear axle back on then realised one of the outer shaft splines are worn (same side as damaged CV/spider). They look worn and splines are v tipped rather than castellated. Despite this when I enter it into the new female shaft it seems to bind...

Splines on 4wd shaft

The crack is near a lug on the casing...thought maybe cracked when last person tried prising it off. Should I consider replacing? It's as the top and wasn't leaking so suspect ok? I noticed splines on shaft serving front wheels (4 WD) are worn - is this shaft extractible from this location or do...

Photographs attached

Passenger side all back together with new shaft. Driver side now open (was very stiff to separate..previous person had cracked casing when opening up but not leaking). All appears present and correct with no more evidence of debris. Time to put back together? I expect it to be much harder to get...

Photographs attached this time

Passenger side opened up and all appears present and correct. No further signs of debris (looks quite clean). Should I open drivers side?? Although I suspect if I open it whilst passenger side is open the central diff will be unsupported and drop down?

This is a 2007 but the hour clock is missing. I've put a new one in to monitor for future servicing but suspect this has done 3000-4000hrs. Like the other one I was working on I suspect it has been worked hard in the past and perhaps not maintained very well. I will flush tank and monitor for...

If I put shafts in I can turn by hand but I didnt do it too much as thought I should keep positions or does that not matter? Had a look at teeth through shaft openings with torch on end of Flexi rod and all looks complete. I think I will flush tank with some oil ( any suggestions on grade?) And...

Photos attached this time.