Cracked Casting/Cover

aurthuritis

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i think that filter housing has to come off with the cover also. not sure though but if it does it would be a good time to replace those two hoses???
 

bordercollie

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I'm hoping everything went ok too. Dennis is a good fixer so I think when he gets caught up on chores , he'll fill us in on what he encountered.
 

D&D Farm

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Gotta take some pictures so you understand...……. The allen head cap was tighter than a drum. Broke off 2 double nutted bolts using them as a wrench.....NO LUCK, Went back to town to find a 17mm 1/2 drive impact socket.....Then turned out that I needed a new air impact tool.....$$$$$...…..OK, came right off. Laid out the bolts in specific order. lol,,.,,,The rod came off with a couple of springs and some kind of spacer rod gizmo, Actually looks like a valve train lifter from a head. Anyway, then a roller bearing held in place by pieces of mechanisms, and finally, WORST PART...…inside is a thumb size cavity with a caged needle bearing that holds I dont know what,,...…..


The hard part is getting that cage out of the hole...…

Pics follow and you shall see...……..
 

D&D Farm

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One pic is not so good; but look at the cavity the size of your thumb. There inside of that is a thimble like caged needle bearing that a shaft rides in,......HOW TO GET THAT NEEDLE BEARING CAGE …..OUT?????

In the freezer now to try to shrink a bit.....have tried getting stuff under the back side of it but can get no movement...…..
 

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aurthuritis

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maybe with two 90 degree oring pics you could get under it from the bottom of the hole and gently with even force pry it out??? order a new bearing??? try compressed air ??? since the old cover is trash anyway you could grind away from the outside with a dremmel or a die grinder a file or even a hacksaw in order to get at the backside with a punch or socket???
 

shinnery

Active member
Is there something behind that bearing you need out? I believe I would just order a new bearing and install it in the replacement cover and forget that one.
Bryce
 

shinnery

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I also believe when installing the gearing in the new cover I would have the bearing cold and the cover room temperature or above.
 

D&D Farm

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I also believe when installing the gearing in the new cover I would have the bearing cold and the cover room temperature or above.

Yes, and am wondering WHY THE TECH at Messicks didn't advise me of the situation. He did advise for some white grease to hold the ball bearing mess with "holder/bracket" together; but nothing about this little bearing...…..

Am gonna order the little cage bearing and yes freeze it first...….Just something in me has me having a hard time in destroying the "old" case.....Wonder if heating up the bearing area with a small torch might loosen things up enough for it to move. Yes, John, ,my wife and I got it out of the freezer and both applied pressure "under" it with a couple of scribes.....NADA
 

aurthuritis

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use a thin cut off wheel and cut across the top and down two sides of the case around the boss that the bearing is mounted in from the outside. don't cut all the way through the case just get it real thin next to the bearing. then with a chisel or screw driver carefully split the case and the bearing will fall out. new bearing is best idea though. that old case is scrap. i am interested why it cracked in the first place though because it is the fulcrum on which the swash plate tilts. there is a lot of force against those two bearing shells. just for history sake a little story> my dad and i used to put bearings or even shafts in a bucket of propane to freeze shrink them. they would just fall in place and then swell tight in place.

dry ice from the grocery store placed inside the bearing and then warm the case with a torch at the same time would probably let it fall out.
 

bordercollie

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I think I'd go for a new bearing also. But.. since the case is trash, I would at least do a few light cuts and crack that nut gently open- with a screwdriver or a chisel. Just to show it .. haha ( I spent a little time this morning removing a pinion seal with a sharp screwdriver . ) Good luck Dennis ! :tiphat: collie


















.)
 

D&D Farm

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What else is gonna mess up...……??????????

OK, as suggested and thought about, I took the Dremel and went to work. Ground around that boss in the case and found that the aluminum is not so hard to get through......Easy to see when I got to the bearing. Tapped a couple of times around the edges on the back side. No movement.....Then ooooops, the drift I was using slipped and punched out one of the needle bearings!!!!!
Time to get on the phone and find some help with putting all this back together....Swash plate, roller bearing, needle bearing, couple of springs, push rod, and bolts....
NOT day to do this stuff...…….Thanks for the help......
 

bordercollie

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I read your other thread "New Dealer" associated with this one , and am so glad you found a good dealer !! He sounds like he is a white hat and a keeper!! That kind of dealer needs a 5 star award at the end of the mission if he is true blue. :) collie
 

avantiguy

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One of the old tricks to getting pilot bearings out of auto crankshafts is to pack the entire void that the bearing is in with grease, get a rod that is just slightly smaller than the bearing id, place the rod in the void and hit it hard a few times.

Generally, this will hydraulic the bearing out with some persistence. Took one out of an SBC crankshaft last year like this. Learned this trick about 60 yrs back when a large number of cars had manual transmissions.

Good luck
 

D&D Farm

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Been waiting a few days for Chattanooga Kubota to get the bearing in. Old outfit with a brand new place and location. Supposed to be ready to come home later this morning, so will advise more then. Gotta get a picture of my purchase at "0" percent interest rate...….SUPRISE YOU GUYS FOR SURE...….
 

ditto

New member
Pulled and replaced same motor cover,long push hex head pulled out 3 springs on it when manual shows only 2 springs?
 

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