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Old 10-14-2014, 12:43 PM
martyk98 martyk98 is offline
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Default john deere 1010 wiring help needed

I'm converting my 1010 gas from original pos ground/generator, to neg ground one wire alternator and can't find a decent wiring diagram anywhere. Does anyone have one? I can't find a new wiring harness either!! (no, i'm not going to pay $300+for five or six wires) Thanks-Marty
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Old 10-15-2014, 06:00 AM
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Hi Marty. Just wanted to welcome you to Net Tractor Talk. Wish I had an answer to your question but I don't. Hoping my post will 'bump' this thread so others who know the answer will see it. Good luck. (I wouldn't pay 300 for 5 or 6 wires either ).
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Old 10-15-2014, 11:50 AM
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Thanks Doc, I'm too old to be in a hurry so hopefully someone has been thru this and can lend some good advice. mine is a dozer with optional 6 way blade and it's in terrific shape. Updating to an alternator, pos ground, and pertronix points just makes good sense. After the retro, I should get plenty of hours out of this old dog.
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Old 10-15-2014, 12:40 PM
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I did a little hunting and did find this. Maybe it will help you.

Quote:
Draft for Review - 1010 RUS wiring diagram w/Delco 3-wire alternator conversion

Please review and feel free to make corrections. I will edit as necessary.

12v coil already on tractor.

This is what I have come up with by using the JD Service Manual, myfordtractor, Ehow, various other sites and forums, and a little bit of head-scratching.

I substituted a voltmeter for a ammeter. Seems to make more sense knowing the voltage.

The #2 from the alternator is wired into the lighting leg from the key switch. I don't know if it matters or not where it is tied in. #2 is supposed to "tell" the alternator how much voltage to make. I don't know about that, just what I read.

#1 serves to energize the alternator so it can make voltage. Supposedly it is better to run it through a lamp and/or reisistor. Not sure of the specifices but it is supposed to work better that way. It also serves to provide a visual if the alternator quits working (i.e. you just threw the belt...no voltage supply and no water pump). The purpose of the parallel resistor is to backup the light in case the bulb burns out. The bulb should come on when the key is turned (engine off). When the engine is running the the light should go off because it is getting fed 12v from both sides. If the alt. stops it is grounded and the light should come on letting you know there is trouble. Again, just what I read. I haven't even tried this yet. I'm not even real sure what #1 and #2 really do but I'll trust those that do. I know a lot of people just jumper it to the hot post but if this way works better I'm all for it. (refer to myfordtractor for the discussion)

I am also not sure the rear floodlight goes to FL but I'm guessing that's what FL stands for.

Edit 12-27-11 NOTE: If you use an OEM replacement switch (positive ground)you will need to disconnect the resistor from the starter tab on the back of the switch and the switch's case. If you do not it will cause a short. If you use an aftermarket switch of the same style it should be fine as it was designed for negative ground. See post 12-27-11 below.


Again, this is just for review. When I find out what works or doesn't I'll update and call it good. Obviously there are some alternate routes that could be taken. Mostly it is drawn this way for ease of reading.

Wire gauges and fuse size are purely subjective. I usually over wire everything, can't hurt. Fuses are based on Alternator amps (37A in this case) and how much I am willing to let a load pull. Fuse to #2 on alt. is just a guess and probably too much.

If you choose to use this you do so at your own risk...me too.
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Old 10-15-2014, 12:42 PM
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You said One wire alternator ....just caught that. I'll leave the diagram and all but afraid it is not what you are after. I'll keep hunting.
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Old 10-15-2014, 12:47 PM
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Fournd this on Yesterdays tractors. I used to be there and got help when converting my old 8N over to negitive ground.

Quote:
I hoping someone can e-mail me a copy of the wiring diagram for a John Deer 1010 tractor. Also any hints on changing over to a negative ground, alternator system.

Thanks,

John

j329j@yahoo.com
Quote:
You can go to john deere'e web site & download what you need from the parts manual. You will need to know serial #.
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Old 10-15-2014, 12:59 PM
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Hoping this will help but I'm just posting hits I found with my search. Might not apply at all to what you are asking.

First a little info from a helpful guy:

Quote:
I have a JD 2010 that I have converted to Alternator and negative ground. I used the old generator output wire to charge the battery. You can simply leave the old regulator in place and pull the "gen" wire off the regulator and place it onto the "BAT" terminal along with the wire that is there. This effectively takes the regulator out of circuit and just makes it a terminal board. Using a one wire alternator, that should do it. I assume someone already changed the polarity of the ignition coil.

I didn't go the one wire alternator, but used the older style with a regulator and managed to place that regulator in the same location as the old regulator with some wire changing. DO NOT polarize an alternator, though.

NOTE to all those that think EVERY manufacturer did the negative ground update: John Deere, in all their glory, did not do that until they brought out their 4020, somewhere around 1963!!! Can you imagine a 24 volt positive ground system??? That is what was used on the 4010 diesels.
And here is a diagram by someone else that might hit home for you.
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Old 10-15-2014, 02:16 PM
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Thanks-a local guy told me I didn't need a ballast resistor but I guess I do? I didn't re-install a fresh regulator even though I have one. Using it as a circuit board makes sense. If the weather here in western WA would clear up a bit, I could jump right on this. (I'm a fair weather mechanic and golfer). Do I need to polarize the new regulator?-Marty
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Old 11-21-2014, 04:18 PM
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thanks to all that responded to my wiring issue. I resolved it with simple wiring from starter/ignition key/alternator. I bypassed all the gauges/acc until I can pick up a basic gauge set at the local auto parts store and redo the whole dash. Now I need to tackle the damn thing being locked in gear. Don't know how it happened or why, but I'm about ready to give up.
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Old 11-23-2014, 12:49 PM
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When I was just a kid, I saw a Cat D4 that got locked in gear too. IIRC, it was a problem with the shifting forks, which would require going into the transmission - at least the transmission cover. Good luck with it.

Fred
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Old 11-23-2014, 04:59 PM
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That's on our short list of possibles. We're gonna try taking out the starter to see if that isn't frozen open and maybe get a peek at the flywheel from there. Forks are a little harder to uncover so that's second on our list. Thanx
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