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Old 12-16-2014, 11:13 AM
twoforty twoforty is offline
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Default Got to be rings - right?

After replacing fuel pump, termostart, and attempting every cold start procedure I can find or that has been recommended, I am still unable to get this YM240 to crank without assistance - "starting fluid." I even took it to the John Deere place concerned the the shims between the block and the fuel pump were not correct, but they are. Any suggestions y'all?

Past that, it really seems to load up just pulling its own weight up a hill until it really warms up and I mean after 30 minutes or so. The John Deere folks say they think it has stuck rings, which should clean up as it is used, but I don't use the thing but maybe 6 times a year. Is there a particular additive I might put in the fuel or in the oil which could help this?

Everyone tells me that the Yanmar is the way to go over my Hinomoto, but the fact is my E230 at present is 10 times the tractor this 240 is. If only I could find a way to get 13.6-16 Ag tires out of China cost effectively for the Hinomoto, which has turf tires. Any suggestions on that would be helpful too. I can get two R1 Ag tires size 13.6-16 (yes, this is the same size as turf tires) and inner tubes for $200 FOB to their port in China. The problem is custom fees and etc. getting them into this country. I could really use some help getting a couple if anyone has any ideas.

Last edited by twoforty; 12-16-2014 at 11:34 AM.
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Old 12-16-2014, 12:15 PM
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If 'starting fluid' was ever used it likely has shattered rings or worse.
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Old 12-16-2014, 12:51 PM
twoforty twoforty is offline
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Define worse. Is this a tractor I need to go ahead and sell or is it all that big of a deal to change the rings? After it runs for about 30 minutes, it easily starts on its own without the need for anything. I have gotten the termostart working, but I really don't see how this process would make a difference. All it seems to do is catch the diesel on fire. For those that don't know, this is apparently not uncommon if you take the breather cover off. I would also note that it does not take much of a squirt to get it running. Of course any starting fluid is BAD. I've seen diesel engines explode from people that have used too much. As such, I've always been very conservative in the amount I've used. Presuming you'd suggest selling, what would be fair for the tractor and a 4ft cutter?
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Old 12-17-2014, 08:01 AM
winston winston is offline
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Mechanical ability determines whether it is a big deal to change rings. Cylinder condition, piston condition, etc could make costs go up or down.

Where you live can affect your selling price. Here is North East Texas a 240 with known engine problems and a 4' mower would sell for less than $2000. What part of the world do you live?
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Old 12-17-2014, 08:37 AM
twoforty twoforty is offline
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First, it is worth more than $2000 to me. Once warmed up, it runs the cutter fine and can pull a disk with no problem. I'm in the "Sportsman's Paradise" of North Central Louisiana. Thanks to all the technical info you have sent me Winston, it doesn't look like a big deal to replace the rings. However, if there is damage to the cylinder walls, then that would require inserting sleeves, which I do not have the proper tools to do. I suppose I should have sold it when offered $2500 on the deer lease, but I just keep thinking that as the John Deere boys are stating, the rings are stuck to the pistons and it takes a bit for them to free up. That said, while I have not put any additives into my diesel, it would seem like the 20+ hours I have put on the tractor would have freed the rings by this point if they were going to do so. Thanks for the info guys!
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Old 12-17-2014, 10:23 AM
SpudHauler SpudHauler is offline
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Did anyone suggest checking the valve clearances?

You know tappet adjustment.

Easy to check once the valve cover is removed and you only need the specs and a feeler gauge.

Had another type of engine that was hard to start and the intake valves where tight.

Worth a check.
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Old 12-23-2014, 01:10 PM
bmaverick bmaverick is offline
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For the most part, the Yanmar engines should be easy to drop the oil pan and access the cam/crank, piston rods, bearings, pistons and rings. That's if you only want to work on the lower end of the engine. The head can get into some lengthy work otherwise.

The YM240 is an actual Yanmar import here, thus parts are available in the USA directly from Yanmar.
http://www.yanmartractor.com/gray-market

AND parts are available from Fredricks and Hoye as well.

2TR20A engine 1.1L. That's actually a rather large 2-cyl for back in it's day. It has more power than a John Deere 650 2-cyl.

Is yours green or red. I see both configurations on the web. TractorHouse has one for $3800 with mower.

AND the the Hayes/Chilton shop repair manual via IT is under $20 here ...
http://www.repairmanual.com/product/...or-manual-ym-1

I got one of these for my YM2500/YM2610/JD-850/JD-950. It's a very good shop manual for tear-down and rebuild.
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