Winch wiring?

I have searched and looked and not found...

Is there an electrical connector under the hood of a '15 x1100c that will handle a 2500 pound winch electrical load? I thought there would be something here, but I sure can't find it.

Any help appreciated.

Oh, I have a new in the box Polaris 2500 pound winch that I bought a long time ago and never got installed on the Ranger. It is actually made for a 4x4, but it looks good. Should work if I can find enough electrons.

You'll need to run directly off the battery and use a relay to actuate the winch. Most come with a setup, even my Harbor Freight had one.





The connector in the second picture is my connection to the winch. I used the connector so I could use the winch front or back.

Thanks. Yes, it has the relay and switches, but I will have to run the wiring I guess. I thought there was an auxiliary wire attachment point under the seat, in the fuse box, but now I can't find my manual or reference here. Grrr...

Here's why I need it... my BX24 can't keep up with the snowfall. I need to push snow too, with the RTV. Blade is supposed to get here Wednesday. I hope I can find wiring stuff by then. I had to dig my way into the shop and still climb over a 3 foot ice pile to get the winch. Sigh...

View from my living room window.



This is several days and several feet of snow ago... sorry for the huge pics.

At least the snow did not stick to your satelite TV dish. LOL

Yes, one typically has to run extra wiring for the winch. In addition I made the addition of running up off the battery to a NEW fuse panel, heavy duty covered of course, and then out of there to an overhead lighted switch panel for various accessories to include the wench, rear hookups for sprayers etc, and of course lighting...........Sure does make it nice to just reach up to run stuff................
It's worth the extra bit of money to get a remote control to control the wench as you work with it from the wench itself or behind something to protect yourself but still watch exactly what you are doing.............Dennis

shinnery said:

At least the snow did not stick to your satelite TV dish. LOL

Click to expand...

Nope, it has a heater on it, and I insulated the back side to help some too.

I must find my documentation for the RTV. I did find the shop manual and it shows several spare circuits in the fuse boxes. Lots of them in fact. More snooping to do. I just came in from moving the last foot of snow that fell last night. Sure hope it snows...

Ken, sorry you are getting hammered. You must be getting ours. We've had two snows this Winter and neither was more than 2". I'd say 3" total.

This is the most snow we have had at one time since I have lived here. We used to get 10 feet or so in a winter, but it would melt and snow and melt and snow... This winter it just keeps coming. The depth in the yard is over 4 feet now, including all the melting and freezing it has done. I gave up on keeping track of how much we get.
I have decided to punt on the wiring. I taped the cover down over the fuse boxes because of the dust clouds that came in there. Like having an open hole under the seat. So, I ordered wiring and connectors to run directly from the battery to under the hood. Gotta find an inline fuse yet.

Nevadablue said:

This is the most snow we have had at one time since I have lived here. We used to get 10 feet or so in a winter, but it would melt and snow and melt and snow... This winter it just keeps coming. The depth in the yard is over 4 feet now, including all the melting and freezing it has done. I gave up on keeping track of how much we get.
I have decided to punt on the wiring. I taped the cover down over the fuse boxes because of the dust clouds that came in there. Like having an open hole under the seat. So, I ordered wiring and connectors to run directly from the battery to under the hood. Gotta find an inline fuse yet.

Click to expand...

NB, If you look at the second picture I posted, you will see a fused connector on the positive battery post.

I don't remember where I found them but this one is from West Marine.



Bob

Thanks Bob. I ordered a single inline holder for now. I have some accessory fuses and holders and all kinds of electrical stuff but I can't get to them now. They are in a storage container that I could only get to with snow shoes now. That will teach me... or not...

This is the fuse holder, it was only a few bucks.

Here is one thing in life ive learned over the past 40 years or so.
When adding anything 12 volts to anything that draws more than 5 amps always add a relar period..99 percent of switches of any type can only handle a small amount of amperage before they melt down like a liberal during Trumps Inaugeration.Every persom wires things differently on everything from atvs to boats to cats to tractors. My perspective on this is always use a heavier wire than needed. Always use a relay to handle the current of what you intend to power.Relays are rated so pick the one you need to handle the current and amperage and may be even go bigger. As most factory fuse boxes are designed to handle very little I always suggest add another fuse box right off of the battery for accessorys.As im a fannatic on doing things right On my RTV I ran 2 guage wire right off the battery down from the battery along the frame then up to the top of the roll cage to the home made consol where I have a seperate fuse block.You can pick up a new one or go raid one off of an old car at the junk yard.From there I add each acccessory to a single circuit .That wire then runs to my switches that powers thr relays off and on.You use the relay as the switch to supply power and it can handle the current.Most of my things are on a relay rated at 35 amps.I have everything on relays period.The only relay that I have rated at 200 amps is powerewd from the accessory fuse on the kubota so its only powered up when the key is on then it powers the added fuse block .Things are all set up like this for several reasons.1 is so I dont forget to turn something off and kill the battery.so key on powers the 200 amp relay to power the added fuse box.All accessorysare powered by a switch to supply power to the relay for the accessory.All things are fused and some are double fused.The average 55 halogen light draws 10 amps and will melt a switch in a short time.In todays technology with the LED lights you can probably get away with no relays but if Im doing your wireing a relay will always be added.Relays are cheap to buy especially the standard 12 volt 30 amp relays.They also come with a quick plug and wireing harness.You can generally get a 12 pack off ebay for about 20 bucks.If you do any wireing go the xtra distance and do it right the first time.These are tips from doing 12 volt wireing for 40 plus years.This stops switch melt downs and electrical fires.Take this info for what it is worth to you.

Regards

Thanks Mark. I subscribe to your methods also. When I got the RTV, I also bought some relays and the box with fuses for them. I have not installed them yet. But, I can't get to them, they are sealed in snow now. So, I have ordered an extra circuit in essence. I will have the heavy wire with fuse, running from the battery and leading to the relay under the hood.
I have a fairly large alt power setup, actually two, that run on 12 volts and 48 volts respectively and am very careful with DC. Breakers also should be special DC ones.
Thanks again for the input. I asked the original question for myself, but hopefully this thread will help others in the future.
I will try to remember to take pics when I do the winch and wiring install, as well as the plow install. The plow is a simple KFI straight blade, I have high hopes for it.

Mark has most things correct...but if your winch is a typical 4500 the documentation will likely point out that under full load it pulls around 300 Amps...so a 30A fuse is woefully incapable... (sorta like his political statement re: liberals.... which has the same root-word as Liberty.).