New to me RTVX-1100c No power on inclines

bordercollie

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That makes me sick Kubotabuddy. It really does. I'm so sorry.
I decided last year that while my machine was still in good shape that I would sell it and get something less complicated. I have 2 more years of warranty on what I bought, but unless it is an expensive repair , and if I can't do it, it will be going to a local mechanic . He is who works on my truck. Dealers regardless of whether Kubota or Roxor , have their pricing guide with # of hours to complete a job and they go by that.
Years ago when I first changed out the rear ujoints on my first RTV900, few had done it and so I checked with the Kubita dealer and he told me over a $1000 for the job. A friend here on the forum sent me the shop pricing guide and I saw where the price should have been half of that. I think the reasoning for that was that they looked at doing one side and x2d it. Since the rear "bumper" must be removed anyway for one side - and would already be off then for side 2, , I could see that the price was way off. So I had to it myself and learned a lot. The second time around I did much better and was quicker . I agree with you though, I didn't want to do it again. If I still had the shop fee guide, I'd look it up for you but it went with my machine when I sold it. collie
 

Ohio_Pawpaw_Grower

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For what its worth, we have Honda and Deere equipment as well as Kubota in our family. All the dealers are as Collie describes. The one thing I can suggest is talk with the Service Manager and see if there is a way to reduce the repair bill.

Maybe you could handle some parts of the reassembly once you get it home. You could advise the Sales Manager that if you can only keep this one in service for another year, you plan to buy a new one here.

There is also the option to purchase new now and trade yours in. Zero % for 60 months or better on some models. I am just spitballin here but I hate to see expensive things happen to good people. I hope this helps, somehow.
 

foxalaska

Active member
working better now?

Art, maybe I'm oversimplifying a complex issue due to lack of knowledge, but it seems the logical approach is to make sure the engine is running at full potential, then yank the hand throttle all the way out and check the operation of the hydrostat. Lastly worry about synchronizing the two. I run mine with the hand throttle partially out all time except for starting. Even when idling. Not a believer in low idling diesel engines. When pulling any kind of incline, I pull the hand throttle all the way out. It seems to do a little better, probably because I'm a little out of sync, but controlling only the hydrostat and not the engine with the foot feed totally eliminates that issue. One thing most folks don't understand, these things are horribly underpowered for their weight. ATV type tires don't help. I run 40 lbs in mine and I find it rolls much easier. I remain on a quest to find rims that allow me to convert to automotive tires. Alaska Railroad had a crap load of these back in the days of the 5 hole pattern and there was a automotive rim that fit. All theirs was converted. May have to buy a set of Kubota rims, cut out the hubs and weld them to an automotive rim. May even be able to increase the rolling diameter considering I will have less drag. What's your thoughts?
 

aurthuritis

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you have a good point Fox. but just because the foot peddle is on the floor doesn't mean the hst speed lever is at max travel. i guess you could check the engine first. one overlooked condition is the engine rpm at transmission stall. if the engine runs 3600 no load but drops to many rpm when stalled tells me that the fuel rack needs adjusted out a little. you shouldn't need to use the hand throttle hardly at all. when adjusted to spec these things are very impressive. unfortunately as easy as it is to adjust it rarely gets done.
 
For what its worth, we have Honda and Deere equipment as well as Kubota in our family. All the dealers are as Collie describes. The one thing I can suggest is talk with the Service Manager and see if there is a way to reduce the repair bill.

Maybe you could handle some parts of the reassembly once you get it home. You could advise the Sales Manager that if you can only keep this one in service for another year, you plan to buy a new one here.

There is also the option to purchase new now and trade yours in. Zero % for 60 months or better on some models. I am just spitballin here but I hate to see expensive things happen to good people. I hope this helps, somehow.

I appreciate it and I will do that. They now think it may be a relief valve if I have the right name causing the problem so as you can imagine the bill is only getting higher. Sadly I was going to bite the bullet and trade it but they won't have any more units until July sometime and it didn't seem like it made sense to wait.
 

aurthuritis

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check and see if they have the test gauges and make sure they use them. guessing gets expensive. there was a recent individual who built his own test set and was very successful in determining the problem with his. turned out his valve plates were scratched and there was a problem with a relief if i remember.
 
The dealer fixed the machine but I wasn't able to get it on a steep hill or anything else but it seemed to bet running OK. I figured I didn't want to go through this again and traded it in on a new 2019 model. So for me the saga is now over. This is why I try to avoid dealers at all costs and hopefully by maintaining the new one perfectly it will never see a dealer again!
 

cooper426

New member
on the front of the injection pump there is a screw under a tamper proof cover. you need to remove the seat and tray to get to it. remove the tamper proof cover and deiscard. under it you will find a screw with a jamb nut. turn the screw out about 1/2 turn or less at a time and test drive on a warmed engine until you just begin to see a faint smoke under hard load.

different model but the same proceedure

if your max rpm adjustment still has the lead seal and nobody has messed with it then your max rpm is probably around 3400 rpm. the way this works is the governor has to open the fuel rack in order to get more fuel. the screw is just a stop that the fuel rack bumps against limiting the travel of the rack and thus not allowing the little pumps to open their sleeves and letting in more fuel. to get the max performance the rpm needs to be 3600 rpm or even 3800 rpm no load ,so that the governor can make full use of the fuel rack. i think KTC derates these to comply with california codes.

Hi, I dont think this screw is the same location for fuel on the x1100 vs the 900 like video? I adjusted mine and it did not do anything?
I am in the middle of installing a turbo and I am using SFS installation instructions as a guide. Google search KX110014 and instructions will come up. The 1100 and the 900 both have that screw on the front, but the 1100x also has the extra one on top?

They say the full load adjusting screw is on top fig12., i dont see this on the 900 pump? Any idea if they both front screws do the same thing?

Thanks
 

aurthuritis

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is your engine running at it's rated no load governed speed? is the throttle control lever on the pump against the rpm stop screw when the peddle or the hand throttle is completely engaged? all of the above mentioned adjustments are useless unless the fuel rack is against it's stop. and the governor is calling for max rpm. have you checked the no load and stall rpm with a tachometer?
 

cooper426

New member
Yes, i installed a handle throttle and its exactly the same with front screw out 3 turns.
My question is, does that same screw have same purpose on both 900 and 1100x?

If it increases fuel why does the turbo instruction never mention it? They say adjust top screw only?
 

Ohio_Pawpaw_Grower

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I wish I had the guys to make these adjustments. Still under warranty but would love just a little more giddy up. By the way, dealer will not make the update for me, under warranty or not.
 

aurthuritis

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Yes, i installed a handle throttle and its exactly the same with front screw out 3 turns.
My question is, does that same screw have same purpose on both 900 and 1100x?

If it increases fuel why does the turbo instruction never mention it? They say adjust top screw only?


i may be a little thick so please bear with me. i don't think you answered my questions? the answers are very relevant to any further discussion.
 

cooper426

New member
RTV-X have two fuel adjustments, the top one is what SFS says to adjust. Full load screw adjustment, "they say to adjust this one on X1100".
No mention of other screw that is called "ASSY APPARATUS IDLE".

Anyways, I will return the front screw to OEM specs since i had zero improvment, and yes everything is adjusted and working correctly.


 

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