Rear axle bearing issues - RTV 900

doggman

Member
My neighbor has a 2006 RTV900. His rear axle bearings started squeaking recently so he took it to the dealer since he's not too mechanically inclined. He's $1400 lighter these days. </p>


The dealer said it was from driving through water and fine sand and dirt enters the inboard bearings. The dealer said that some of the commercial users that he services were having the same problem and weren't at all happy with Kubota. </p>


My neighbor has to cross a stream to get to his barn. He also drives several miles a day to check on cattle at some leased pasture and he drives hooked up on the gravel road. He's probably crossed that creek 1000 times and put some miles on his rig so maybe it's not unusual. However,his comment was that hehad his 4 X 2 Gator for years and never had a problem at all. </p>


My point is that it's something to watch out for. Maybe there's some way to make a seal or boot for the inboard side of the axle shafts. </p>
 

Peanut

Well-known member
SUPER Site Supporter
i got a front bearing thats going out on my hpx and it'svery common thing to have them go out if you drive in creeks with sandy bottoms. infact the life span of a bearing for someone who mud rides isn't that long. try looking into the rhino forums you'll be amazed at how many have had to change theirs out . it's best that when you run through muddy water or infact after you ride at all and your washing it down if there is anyway you can to get the wheels off the ground and turn them while you have water running on the bearings it will help the life of the bearing . it does work look at my hpx it's spent most of it's life under water and under mud and the front bearing is finally going out after 5 years it would have went out alot sooner if i didn't washer her down so good after mud riding also them sandy creeks and muddy holes are really bad on the brake pads too if you don't wash them out that sand and mud will eat them up.</p>
 
I looked at mine and it appears that the previous owner or the dealer ran a bead of silicon around the both. At the time I thought that it was to keep the fluid in...(poor way to make a gasket imo)..now I see that it was probably done to keep water out. I bought my unit used with only 105 hours on it.</p>
 

Peanut

Well-known member
SUPER Site Supporter
it probably kept a good bit of water out but the little bit of water or sand that did make it in was trapped in and could not get out and thats what killed it. . </p>
 

TWO GUNS

Senior Member
Site Supporter
I would like to see a picture exactly where the silicone went, that's agreat idea being our applications is always around water in these swamps thatwe run in >>>>>
</p>


thanks, >>>>jamie</p>
 

bordercollie

Gold Site Supporter
Gold Site Supporter
Doggman, I had my rear ujoints go out last April @ about 1800 hours. (I also drive thru mud and water here on this cattle farm.) I got both sides done. The ujoints in the rear wheel and axles were replaced,as were all the seals. and the bearings . It was about $225 for the parts. The labor help was the same. My dealer and I had a falling out over what he wanted to charge me so I had a guy that knew about it do it. Those of you that do this would also want to change the trans oil and filters since you are opening the axles sides up and losing fluid. Jobs like this are do able if you have a shop manual and a strong back because you have to break down the back end area to get to the ujoints and axles. If anyone has this problem, It caosts very little more labor to do both sides , since you already have the machine taken apart .Bumper, bed etc... Bordercollie 2614 hrs</p>
 

Peanut

Well-known member
SUPER Site Supporter
i wouldn't try sealing up anything like i posted you will only seal up what ever gets in it's best just to wash it down really good and don't use a heavy degreaser i done that on my hpx when i first got her and tore up a hanger bearing .i would shash her down really good after riding with some degreaser and it made it's way down into the bearing and broke down the grease. now i use just water to wash my stuff with and after i wash it i spray both of them down with son-of-a-gun tire foam cleaner not only does it help keep the rubber nice and soft but it cleans the plastic and the engine too . after i spray it on i let it set for a second or two then i wipe it down. the next timeyou go to wash it all you will need is a rag and some water or a pressure washer like i use and everything falls right off . if i go mud riding as soon as i get home i run water through the radiator and i clean out the trash from my cv boots then i park them by the next day the mud is peeling away like 30 year old paint on a house.</p>
 

bouchard

New member
I overload my rtv with huge boulders. I'm not sure what the weight is but it's way more than what kubota recomends. I waited too long to change the bearings and by the time I did, it had started to wear out the housing so it had to be replaced. The housing itself was $550. besides the bearings and seals. I did the job myself which really wasn't too bad, but the point I want to make is that if he only had to replace the bearings and seals, he paid way too much money. Parts alone is probably less than $200. By the way, I did check with a machinist prior to ordering a new housing and he told me he might be able to salvage it for half the cost of a new one but could not guarantee it. The axle shafts had to be machined but it was much cheaper than new ones. I have Kimpex Commander K Series tracks for the winter and I sankin a beaver dam so I'm sure that did not help. It was in the water for a few hours and water did get in. If you purchase the shop manual and are somewhat mechanically inclined, you can save a lot of money.</p>
 

doggman

Member
I haven't seen myneighbor's invoice but his wife told me that $300 of the bill was for something "in the front" . That still leaves $1100 for whatever they did in the back. I'll check it outwhenwe get together. </p>
 
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