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  #1  
Old 12-03-2017, 06:39 PM
rustyshakelford rustyshakelford is offline
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Default Led light bar for roof of x1100

I broke my ankle last Sunday and have a bunch of time on my hands for the next 4-6 weeks. Iím thinking theres no better time than now to do some more tinkering on my buggy. What Iím wanting is to install some light bars on the front and rear of the roof of our buggy.

Iím not trying to reinvent the wheel here and wanted to ask the masses what they have done. Trying to decide on the size most importantly. I can fab brackets as needed also but donít want to get to wild. Would like matching ones too.

Does anyone have info they can share about this project. 40Ē looks to big and 36Ē might be to small. Open to suggestions.

Taking it to the dealer sometime soon to fix the lifting bed problem and will get a rear glass screen at that time too

Brett
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Old 12-04-2017, 12:07 AM
bczoom bczoom is online now
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Don't have light bars myself but what I can add is to say to watch your height. My RTV900 just fits in a standard garage door. I put lights that are slightly above the roof line and no longer fit in that door. Not really a problem since I don't park in the attached garage anymore and the doors in my building are 8' so I have plenty of clearance.
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Old 12-04-2017, 12:21 AM
CKing CKing is offline
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what kind of lift bed problem?

Check out the WSM section it shows factory wiring and the wattage it can handle

Go to ebay for lighted labeled rocker switches.
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Old 12-04-2017, 01:17 AM
rustyshakelford rustyshakelford is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bczoom View Post
Don't have light bars myself but what I can add is to say to watch your height. My RTV900 just fits in a standard garage door. I put lights that are slightly above the roof line and no longer fit in that door. Not really a problem since I don't park in the attached garage anymore and the doors in my building are 8' so I have plenty of clearance.
I have my gps antenna on it and it still clears the garage. I keep in the house garage so itís easier to get to. House has an 8í garage door too. However, thanks for the reminder!


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Originally Posted by CKing View Post
what kind of lift bed problem?

Check out the WSM section it shows factory wiring and the wattage it can handle

Go to ebay for lighted labeled rocker switches.
Dealer is giving me the switches. Light bar should pull less power than the incandescent factory lights.

For the bed, if you sit on the tailgate or rear bed for longer than about 5mins the bed starts to creep up. I had my sprayer with an empty tank and came back outside after 30 mins and the bed was all the way up. Pretty annoying to have to keep water in the tank or take it out all the time.

Brett
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Old 12-04-2017, 02:48 AM
CKing CKing is offline
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Depends on what you buy some 36" bars draw more than 55 watts. Rear circuit is only rated at 35 watts. Amazon 36" bar shows 234 watts, You get about 12 inch light for 55 watts. That's why back is covered with heat sinks. Plus Big light bar will kill battery fast if motor ain't running.

Last edited by CKing; 12-04-2017 at 02:59 AM.
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Old 12-04-2017, 08:06 AM
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Sorry to hear of your injury Brett. Hope you have a quick and complete recovery.
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Old 12-04-2017, 08:41 AM
Alaskanassasin Alaskanassasin is offline
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Originally Posted by ovrszd View Post
Sorry to hear of your injury Brett. Hope you have a quick and complete recovery.
Thatís what I was thinking damn! Sorry about your ankle! Enjoy your diesel wheel chair!

Let me know if the dealer comes up with something for the creep mine does that too I figured without a latch or anything thereís really no solution.
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Old 12-04-2017, 09:39 AM
rustyshakelford rustyshakelford is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CKing View Post
Depends on what you buy some 36" bars draw more than 55 watts. Rear circuit is only rated at 35 watts. Amazon 36" bar shows 234 watts, You get about 12 inch light for 55 watts. That's why back is covered with heat sinks. Plus Big light bar will kill battery fast if motor ain't running.
That’s a great point. I have replaced the factory lights with a light bar on my tractor and never would’ve considered the fact that it would draw considerably more power. I’ll need to look into this.

I’m assuming that the wires are on both sides for the front. I wonder about splicing them together to run the light bar?

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Sorry to hear of your injury Brett. Hope you have a quick and complete recovery.
Thanks. I had loaded some lime and rye grass in the buggy and went to get the little spreader. Stepped out of the rtv on a little hill, rolled my ankle. Put 207lbs of me on it and that’s all she wrote. I knew it was worse than a sprain but the urgent care said otherwise. Made an appt with an orthopedic on tues and she told me it was in fact broke. I’m just glad I didn’t wreck the tendons/ligaments and needed surgery.

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That’s what I was thinking damn! Sorry about your ankle! Enjoy your diesel wheel chair!

Let me know if the dealer comes up with something for the creep mine does that too I figured without a latch or anything there’s really no solution.
Will do. I called the salesman about it and he said he went and sat in two on the lot and neither of them did it. Wants me to bring it up so they can test the valve or cylinder. It’s definitely not something I’m willing to live with

Brett
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Old 12-04-2017, 10:53 AM
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Here is my 40" single light bar. http://www.nettractortalk.com/forums...&pictureid=329

The 20" Mini Light Bar I use working accidents at near blind road at the top of the hill. (Worked traffic division, PD.)

Sorry to hear you broke your ankle.
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Old 12-04-2017, 07:07 PM
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Hey, can you guys explain the creep of the bed??? Are you saying it will raise with the lever in the "neutral" position?? Is this with the engine running??

I took Brett's explanation as having a load on the rear portion of the bed, engine off, bed slightly rises. That is possible if float is used to lower the bed. No pressure in the cylinder and the bed will lift until it builds enough pressure in the cylinder to offset the lifting force.

I often haul large loads of wood or dirt with the tailgate down. Before loading I make sure the bed is lowered using the down position of the lever to pressurize the cylinder in the bed down position to prevent the bed trying to dump my load when going up a hill.
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Old 12-04-2017, 08:18 PM
rustyshakelford rustyshakelford is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ovrszd View Post
Hey, can you guys explain the creep of the bed??? Are you saying it will raise with the lever in the "neutral" position?? Is this with the engine running??

I took Brett's explanation as having a load on the rear portion of the bed, engine off, bed slightly rises. That is possible if float is used to lower the bed. No pressure in the cylinder and the bed will lift until it builds enough pressure in the cylinder to offset the lifting force.

I often haul large loads of wood or dirt with the tailgate down. Before loading I make sure the bed is lowered using the down position of the lever to pressurize the cylinder in the bed down position to prevent the bed trying to dump my load when going up a hill.
I use the lever to put pressure down on the cylinder. That was my thought at first also. I havenít tried this with the buggy running as it usually takes about 5mins to creep up and inch or two and then itís progression is much quicker. Dealer asked if it was in float. To make sure I flipped the plate over to ensure it doesnít move.

Besides that, we love the buggy and it pulls great. Moves my 18í car hauler much easier than the 4wheeler I was using.

Brett
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Old 12-06-2017, 10:12 AM
Alaskanassasin Alaskanassasin is offline
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I have not experimented to much with this as it has not been a huge problem yet. But I recall loading the bed with firewood and the bed slowly raising up. I would start it and push the lever down, shut it off and the same thing all though slowly would happen.
The same thing happens when I load a bobcat or mini hoe onto my dump trailer. so I didnít think it was going to stop without some kind of latch or, a strap for short term repair.
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Old 12-06-2017, 10:26 AM
soccertoad20 soccertoad20 is offline
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Take a look at the post I just added with my lights.

http://www.nettractortalk.com/forums...924#post125924
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Old 12-11-2017, 07:52 AM
soccertoad20 soccertoad20 is offline
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I posted some pics of the mounting bracket I made on my post if you want to see how I mounted my front light bar.
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Old 12-11-2017, 10:11 AM
rustyshakelford rustyshakelford is offline
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Originally Posted by soccertoad20 View Post
I posted some pics of the mounting bracket I made on my post if you want to see how I mounted my front light bar.
Thatís a real nice bracket. I ordered a 44Ēyesterday and 2 5Ē pods for the rear. The front has and adjustable bracket so should be easier to mount. Iíll update when they come in.

Yours looks sharp

Brett
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Old 12-14-2017, 12:57 PM
rustyshakelford rustyshakelford is offline
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Got a light bar in and some little lights for the rear. Iíll be honest, this was a pain in the butt. The angle of the roof doesnít give you much for adjustment and the the mounts on the lights took some creativity to use. I still need to go back and take the front off and use the two unused mounts next to the ones itís on. I wanted to use the two in the middle but they donít line up.

44Ē for the front with flood/spot combo (hopefully thereís enough to power it) and two 5Ē spot/flood combo for the rear.

Brett
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Old 12-15-2017, 08:25 PM
rustyshakelford rustyshakelford is offline
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New switches came in today. Took it for a cruise. With front and rear lights on it was to much for the 15a fuse and blew it. Replace and we’re back in business. Will only be able to use one at a time. Should’ve taken power from the strobe fuse for the rear I guess

Brett
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Old 12-16-2017, 01:11 AM
CKing CKing is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rustyshakelford View Post
New switches came in today. Took it for a cruise. With front and rear lights on it was to much for the 15a fuse and blew it. Replace and weíre back in business. Will only be able to use one at a time. Shouldíve taken power from the strobe fuse for the rear I guess

Brett
Take a look at my thread WSM RTV-X1100C. THE front will handle 110watts and rear 70 watts two separate circuits.
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Old 12-16-2017, 02:53 AM
rustyshakelford rustyshakelford is offline
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Take a look at my thread WSM RTV-X1100C. THE front will handle 110watts and rear 70 watts two separate circuits.
Thatís what I thought but the #17 fuse blew and killed power to front and rear. Running one or the other seems to be fine so far though. I used the factory switches too

Brett
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Old 12-16-2017, 03:08 AM
CKing CKing is offline
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You are correct! front and rear lights feed off same 15A fuse, beacon light gets separate 15A fuse. Said about Kubota is no color code list.
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