Air filter - oil bath, paper element?

Mith

Active member
I'm wondering which would be the best type?

I had thought about finding an oil bath type to fit on the tractor, so I didnt have to get those expensive paper elements. Just not sure if an oil bath will filter as well.

Do new tractors even come with oil bath filters any more?

Cheers
 

Doc

Admin
Staff member
Gold Site Supporter
While I have heard of oil bath filters, I've never seen one. Anyone have any pics they can share and hopefully also explain how they work?
 

Mith

Active member
I put on 2 pics of the one that is on the Kubota I had.

I'm not sure how it works, knowing that would definately help towards deciding how it compares to a paper element.

On the Kubota one it sucked air through the top, after that, I have no idea?
 

Attachments

  • oil bath filer.jpg
    oil bath filer.jpg
    44.7 KB · Views: 11
  • Oil 2 (Small).JPG
    Oil 2 (Small).JPG
    58.7 KB · Views: 12

Big Dog

Super Moderator
SUPER Site Supporter
My tractor has a paper element but I see no reason why you can't use a oil bath filter. If it's good enough for Harley-Davidson it should be good enough for a Kubota ........... :D
 

Mith

Active member
I did a quick search on google, and came up with some information.
From reading it, it seems that adding one to an engine that didnt have one previously would be a problem, and cleaning it looks a hassle too.

Oil Bath Air Filters

Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.

How it works

When the engine starts, it sucks a certain amount of the oil out of the cup allowing it to coat the packed-in metal "shavings". This packing causes a massive increase in the amount of oil soaked surface area available to stop dirt particles. The cannister is designed to be the correct height to allow the proper weight oil to not be sucked into the engine but only pulled to the top of the can.

Uncleaned air is sucked in by the same vacuum that draws the oil up on the "shavings". The air is drawn downward towards the oil sump at the bottom of the cannister, usually through a center pipe. Any particles that are truly "large" will likely continue down into the oil left at the bottom of the cup and be trapped. The small dirt particles are trapped on the oil soaked "shavings" as the air moves upward through the outer cannister. If the correct weight oil is in the cup, the end result is that the air leaves the top of the cannister clean.

Potential Problems

The first problem comes with using the wrong weight oil. Use of oil that is too light will cause the oil to be drawn beyond the filter and into the engine. Use of oil that is too heavy will not allow the oil to be drawn up far enough and much of the air cleaning surface area ends up being unused. Manufacturer owner manuals always show the oil weight that is designed for the system. Engineering of the system (we hope) will have picked just the right weight for the size of the cannister, cup, and vacuum pressure.

The second problem comes when the cup is not cleaned regularly. Manuals always recommend daily refilling of the cup and suggest even more frequent cleanings under dusty conditions. The oil may look clean in the cup but after a few hours of running but it has trapped a significant quantity of small particles many of which will be drawn back up into the cleaning surfaces. When the particles-to-oil ratio reaches a certain level, the dirt will begin to hang on (or "sludge up") on the cleaning surfaces. Eventually, instead of just clean air being sucked into the intake, you have chunks of dirt and sludge going with it. Obviously this can be quickly damaging to the engine. If your cannister is filled with sludge, clean it out before using it or it could do more harm than good.

The last problem is with radically altered machines. The oil bath is engineered for the stock engine. Radical changes to the engine mandate changes to the air cleaning system. Care should also be exercised if replacing your oil bath filter. The replacement should be similar in size and engineered capacity to the original.

From Yesterdays tractors
 

buckle97

New member
I have a 1961 Dodge pickup with an oil bath filter. I inherited the truck and it hadn't been running for a while when I got interested in working on it. The first time I opened the housing above the carburetor it was dry as a bone and I thought the paper element was missing. It took someone much smarter than me to let me know there wasn't supposed to be a paper element. He instructed me to just put some oil in it and it would be fine. The truck still doesn't run well/much so I don't know how well the filter works.
 
Top