I was changing the front outer cv boots today when I noticed the front tires were worn a lot more than the rears. Not wanting to replace the rears because they still had 50% tread, I had a couple of 25x8x12 on hand that had similar tread left so put them on the front. It seemed to improve the steering. Had a little bit of trouble getting them inflated on the wide rims. Anyone ever used smaller tires on the front instead of the standard 25x10x12? The tires are the same height just 2 inches narrower.
RTV 900 front tires
- Thread starter rbarger
- Start date
Rbarger, welcome ! I use 26 "ers on my 2011 RTV 900 9" in front and 11 " in rear. I have never used 8 inchers though . collie
I just bought the 900. It seems to be a good machine. Been servicing it and repairing little things the previous owner had failed to keep up. I am considering a coast valve to improve shifting. It's a 2005 model with 1400 hrs. Runs and operates good. Just wanted to know if anyone had had any problems with changing tire sizes. Thanks for the replies.
Welcome to the forum and congrats on the new-to-you RTV.
I think you're stretching it a bit too far putting 8" tires on 10" rims. I think you may have issues keeping those tires seated to the rims and if/when they blow, it could be a safety issue, especially if on rough or hilly terrain.
I've always been advised not to go more than 1" change in width.
You didn't mention, but what's the weight rating or load range on the tires you installed?
What style of tires are you using? (ATV type tread, worksite...)
No idea where you live but can you check places like Craigslist to see if there's some cheap tires in the correct size (and weight rating)? These tires are measured in LTN format (inches). Car tires are in ISO format. If you can't find tires in LTN format, you can convert the size to ISO and check for used or cheap car size tires.
I think you're stretching it a bit too far putting 8" tires on 10" rims. I think you may have issues keeping those tires seated to the rims and if/when they blow, it could be a safety issue, especially if on rough or hilly terrain.
I've always been advised not to go more than 1" change in width.
You didn't mention, but what's the weight rating or load range on the tires you installed?
What style of tires are you using? (ATV type tread, worksite...)
No idea where you live but can you check places like Craigslist to see if there's some cheap tires in the correct size (and weight rating)? These tires are measured in LTN format (inches). Car tires are in ISO format. If you can't find tires in LTN format, you can convert the size to ISO and check for used or cheap car size tires.
I have an 04 with the coast valve installed when I purchased it. I like it but if you have large hills to traverse I'd probably keep the original valve. They don't call this place the Saginaw Valley because it's hilly.
I don't have trouble shifting until I plow snow. Then I need to be sure to raise the blade to relieve the pressure before I shift into reverse, if that helps in your decision making.
I bought mine several years ago from a local dealer with 850 hrs on it. He said it was almost broken in.
So far it's been a great machine.
Welcome to NTT.
No worries on the tire size issue. What must be considered is height. As long as that matches you are good to go, regardless of width.
I have a coast valve on my '08 900. It does little to improve shifting. What the coast valve eliminates is the severe stop when you remove pressure on the foot throttle. I still don't have to use my brakes for normal stops on normal terrain. But do need the brakes when stopping on steep terrain. Also have to apply minimal brake if descending a steep grade.
I consider the factory system as putting undue stress on the driveline. Driver tends to use the foot throttle to control stops rather than the brakes. So driveline is under constant load.
No worries on the tire size issue. What must be considered is height. As long as that matches you are good to go, regardless of width.
I have a coast valve on my '08 900. It does little to improve shifting. What the coast valve eliminates is the severe stop when you remove pressure on the foot throttle. I still don't have to use my brakes for normal stops on normal terrain. But do need the brakes when stopping on steep terrain. Also have to apply minimal brake if descending a steep grade.
I consider the factory system as putting undue stress on the driveline. Driver tends to use the foot throttle to control stops rather than the brakes. So driveline is under constant load.
The tires had the same 6ply rating as the ones I took off (atv type) and the same 25 inch height. As loud of a pop they made when seating I don't believe they will come unseated. The terrain I will be using it on will be level to gently sloping. No rough tail riding for this machine. It will have an easy life while I own it. Maybe a trip down to river carrying the fishing poles and the wife (all level). As for the coast valve I'm going to give it a while to see if I get use it. Thanks again for the info. I may need more as I get adjusted to it.
The RTV wheels have a pretty severe safety bead formed into them. Tires require considerable pressure to get them seated.
Yeah, I'd do the same in regards to the coast valve. You'll simply learn to not quickly release the foot throttle.
When I first got mine I'd forget and let off so quickly I'd slide the back tires. I am in the timber all the time with various vehicles. I don't mind using the brake pedal to control descent or stops on steep terrain. I have perfected the two foot method from years of 4 wheeling.
Just remember you are using the powertrain as your brake and treat it respectfully.
I want to go fishing!!