New to me RTVX-1100c No power on inclines

the thing on the top of the transmission that the control cable from the peddle,the throttle cable and the hst control rod all attach to is the bell crank. this bell crank has a detente that keeps it centered in the halfway position.

aurthuritis said:

the thing on the top of the transmission that the control cable from the peddle,the throttle cable and the hst control rod all attach to is the bell crank. this bell crank has a detente that keeps it centered in the halfway position.

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sorry. i should correct this to say the detente hold the belcrank in the neutral position.

I just spent another 3 hours (probably into now 40, plus the fluid changes which took hours). Adjusted it all again. Everything is in spec. I even removed the control rod to check it per the manual which was almost exactly to the 620mm. I then tried the adjustment again, took the slack out of the accelerator cable, double checked the control rod. I probably touched 10 things. When I was done, it is identical. 19mph top speed, starts like a dream, shifts like a nightmare and does not have enough power to go up a 20 degree hill with 4 people in it.

I really wanted to like this but the complexity of this thing is mind boggling and service manual is horrible. I appreciate the help and maybe it's some internal adjustment that sadly the dealer can't look at for 4+ weeks.

I agree that the service manual leaves lots to be desired and would rate low on the scale as far as being of much help. Just not detailed enough. But on a positive note, you have eliminated a lots of possible problem areas !!! Four weeks, do you have to leave it in line for that or is it an appointment? Hopefully , it's an appointment. collie

kubotabuddy said:

I just spent another 3 hours (probably into now 40, plus the fluid changes which took hours). Adjusted it all again. Everything is in spec. I even removed the control rod to check it per the manual which was almost exactly to the 620mm. I then tried the adjustment again, took the slack out of the accelerator cable, double checked the control rod. I probably touched 10 things. When I was done, it is identical. 19mph top speed, starts like a dream, shifts like a nightmare and does not have enough power to go up a 20 degree hill with 4 people in it.

I really wanted to like this but the complexity of this thing is mind boggling and service manual is horrible. I appreciate the help and maybe it's some internal adjustment that sadly the dealer can't look at for 4+ weeks.

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sounds like you are frustrated? do you want to continue with this yourself? i know it looks complex but once you get it figured out it will all make sense. have you checked the no load rpm of the engine full throttle? there is a method to my madness and important to methodically work through the adjustments before anything else will make sense.

I would like to since I would probably sell it before going to the dealer for a month plus. I would love to check the rpm but this has no gauge and I have a tiny tach pro but it doesn’t seem to work on diesel. Is there a way for the cluster to show rpm?

yes i understand. i would guess that your machine is probably a good one but much out of adjustment. probably doesn't need much if anything else than simple external adjustments to get everything working in conjunction with one another. the goal is to first get the maximum adjustment relationship between the hst lever peddle and throttle before you proceed. i don't think has sunk in completely but i also think you will get it easy enough. the basics are as follows.

the hst speed control lever has to be at rest in the neutral position and not engaging the swash plates when the peddle is at it's top. " yours isn't because you have creeping"

the hst lever needs to be at full travel when the peddle is fully depressed. yours is but it isn't in sync with the rpm and torque from the engine. not a problem because this will fall in line when all else is adjusted.

the throttle needs to rest against the idle stop when the peddle is at it's upper and against the high idle stop when the peddle is fully depressed.

the engine needs to be running at 3600 min high idle when the governor lever is against the full rpm stop. and then the fuel delivery screw needs to be adjusted until the call for fuel from the governor is satisfied. "just a hint of smoke"

it is good that you haven't given up because this will all come to you if you proceed.

if you decide to check the rpm after all else is right you will need a cheap photo tach.

So at this point I went back and re-checked it all. And the pedal goes the full range of the bell crank and that is fine and the swash plate is also going the full range of travel so I think they are all in sync. The creeping only happen when I did the adjustment wrong the the first time

At this point everything seems synced fine, machine starts and runs fine, travels up to 19mph but no faster and no creep.

It is sounds like it's more and more the rpms aren't getting there like you said. I can get a photo tach but where is the spot to check it? Seems like everything is enclosed.

Thanks for the help.

lift the front seat and put a piece of reflective tape on the harmonic ballancer. what size are your tires

That's a great idea about the balancer! I have the Kubota alloy rims

Front and rear size:25x10

what tire size??? 25x12?? makes a big difference in speed and power sometimes. what air pressure?? radial tires??

my x1100c acted allot like yours. with the stock tires and less than 20 psi all i could get was about 20 mph. after adjusting the hst control linkage i improved to 24 and 25 but still needed to keep the rear tires at 20 psi.

The tires are 25" by 10" - 12NHS

I was pretty sure I set them to 20psi but I will check tomorrow.

I did notice tonight that someone has messed with the servo screw. You can see that the slot is nicked a little like from someone turning it. Is there a chance this could do anything?

This is the exact tire:

OTR 350 Mag 25 x 10.00-12 ATV/RTV/UTV Off Road TIRE ONLY

probably not. the servo screw serves the purpose of centering the servo piston. this could be the reason you had some creep. your machine should run up pretty close to 25 mph but don't expect it to hold that speed on a hill. it should have plenty of power though to crawl out of a tough spot or pull 1200 lbs drag in high gear about 6 mph. i think your hst is in good shape from what you explain but can't know for sure until the adjustments are base lined. your rpm is probably pretty close to spec but should confirm. get all these things answered and then can move up the chain.

the way this works is the hst speed lever controls a hydraulic valve that controls the servo piston and the servo piston is what moves the swash plate. make sense?? seems like some folks get the notion that the servo valve increases power some how but incorrectly. if your engine has enough HP you can up the pressure by adjusting the high pressure bypass valve for more power to the wheels but even this is a waste without a turbo. now though if the fuel screw is set for emissions then there will be a little room for more power by adjusting the fuel screw. it is easy and you won't mess anything up by adjusting it but remember just a hint of smoke. to much smoke and you loose power.

Thanks. I would definitely try the fuel screw, seems like I have nothing to lose by doing it. Sadly the manual doesn't seem to show this. Can you tell me what screw it is or is their a picture I searched and didn't find much. Thanks again for the help.

on the front of the injection pump there is a screw under a tamper proof cover. you need to remove the seat and tray to get to it. remove the tamper proof cover and deiscard. under it you will find a screw with a jamb nut. turn the screw out about 1/2 turn or less at a time and test drive on a warmed engine until you just begin to see a faint smoke under hard load.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mz6Rb9wBwf8

different model but the same proceedure

if your max rpm adjustment still has the lead seal and nobody has messed with it then your max rpm is probably around 3400 rpm. the way this works is the governor has to open the fuel rack in order to get more fuel. the screw is just a stop that the fuel rack bumps against limiting the travel of the rack and thus not allowing the little pumps to open their sleeves and letting in more fuel. to get the max performance the rpm needs to be 3600 rpm or even 3800 rpm no load ,so that the governor can make full use of the fuel rack. i think KTC derates these to comply with california codes.

working better now?

So I never got that far. I was using the machine and the throttle shifter went loose and it appeared the cable snapped inside the machine. Hasn't been a great experience. I ended up bringing it to a dealer which I have never done for any machine I have owned ever. But I couldn't deal with getting the steering wheel off again. Sadly they called me today and quote me $630 to change the cable and said it was 4 hours of work. I am pretty much screwed since I drove 2 hours to get it there and when I asked they said that's how long it takes. That also doesn't include them figuring out what is wrong with the top end power. I have to say I am blown away by the cost for a $50 cable swap and its insane they can charge it.