RTV 900 fuel adjustment

Onfoot

Member
Charles, it grieves me to read about all your RTV disappointments. But clearly your experience is an anomaly, at least in comparison to the experiences of the others of us on the forum. All of which suggests that there is something not right about your machine--as opposed to being not right about all RTVs. I am not knowledgeable enough to make suggestions, but there have been several posted. Bottom line is that your machine is not behaving normally relative to other RTVs. One way to test this would be to borrow one from a friend or perhaps your dealer and put them both against the hill backwards. Perhaps you can take yours to your dealer and do the test in their presence. </p>


For the record, my RTV outpulls and generally outworks my Arctic Cat Prowler UTV in every application. Weight and ground clearance might give the Prowler an advantage in some mud and water conditions, but I would not trade the RTV for any other UTV.</p>


</p>
 

Charles

Member
[quote user="tommy 20/69"]</p>


if you hate the rtv that much then just send it to me!!! i'll even come pick it up to take that burden off your hands i mean if the machine is that worthless to you you should be willing to just give the thing away right? you just was soon give it away so that would save you the trouble of havin to move it out the way.</p>
<div style="clear: both;"></div>


[/quote]</p>


</p>


</p>


Trade me for the Rhino in your sig and I will BRING IT TO YOU!</p>


</p>


LMAO.</p>


</p>


Or...... send me $7500 and it's yours. Hell, I'll even arrage for/pay shipping if I could get that much money back out of it.</p>


</p>


If you drove this pos you wouldn't have a SA attitude toward me. It feels fine on flat ground, and empty. Like say, when you're testing it out.... It just goes limp when you actually try to do something with it. It's clearly defective, as the comments made by so many people seem to be in such opposition to my own. That leads me to believe it is the exception, not the rule.</p>


</p>


But seriously, if you think I wouldn't take a Rhino for this thing you're crazy. Hell I'd take a gator no questions asked. At least it will TRY to move it's own ass, and spin down if it can't get up or move something. This thing just sits and grunts like and old fat man trying to stand back up after falling on his ass.</p>


</p>


I would love to see your face about 10 min after you tried everything in your power to get usable work out of it. Sure you can take bags of garbage to the road, and ride around in the pasture, so on and so forth. But how about driving down a PG-13 four wheeler trail ATTEMPTING to follow a golfcart? Um..... no. It has absolutely NO chance of going down any ATV trail other than something you would expect your lawnmower to cruise down. My EZGO runs circles around it. Not to mention, the EZGO doesn't spit $400 CV joints out on the ground at will... Need to move 8 to 10 bags of seed? Through a flat yard..... fine. Through the back pasture and through the dry creek bottom, and out the other side...... better not waste your time and just go ahead and load the golf cart to start with. Saves time walking back to the house.</p>


</p>


True story. I've played those out for the past 2 or 3 years. Maybe a video is in order.... I think it may take a camara to capture this sort of inadequacy.</p>
 

Onfoot

Member
Rhino07, you are the technical expert on the Kubota machines. After all that Charles has described, where would you guess might be the problem(s)? Have you encountered similar symptoms in your RTV experiences?</p>
 

TWO GUNS

Senior Member
Site Supporter
All I can say is, Charlesyou aremuch better man than I >>>> for I would have DONE torched that machine. And I am not making a joke about it >>>>> I am dead serious ~~~</p>


I worried with a damn riding mower one time for two months, engine run great, but something in the tranny kept fouling up. I would bring it to the shop, they would send it back stateing it was fixed. B.S. >>>> went threw that three times until I had my fill >>>> next time I loaded it up, it went to the Mississippi River !!!! Don't have time for anything around me that don't work !!!!</p>


Charles, you sound like a good man. Bring to a professional and MAKE him fix it. Don't let it drive you crazy, for machinery will .......There is a simple answer to your problem, just got to find it. For the way it is now, it ain't worth two cents to anybody from what you are stateing about the RTV ....</p>


I've been around RTV's now for 2 1/2 years. Never seen your problem show up. ALL the RTV's I have delt with has been strong as a ox, and will work there ass off !!!! </p>


Hope everything works out OK for you. If worst comes to worst, trade it in on something that will please you and do the work a utility vehicle suppose to do ~~~~</p>


............... two guns </p>


</p>
 

Charles

Member
[quote user="TWO GUNS"]</p>


All I can say is, Charlesyou aremuch better man than I >>>> for I would have DONE torched that machine. And I am not making a joke about it >>>>> I am dead serious ~~~</p>


I worried with a damn riding mower one time for two months, engine run great, but something in the tranny kept fouling up. I would bring it to the shop, they would send it back stateing it was fixed. B.S. >>>> went threw that three times until I had my fill >>>> next time I loaded it up, it went to the Mississippi River !!!! Don't have time for anything around me that don't work !!!!</p>


Charles, you sound like a good man. Bring to a professional and MAKE him fix it. Don't let it drive you crazy, for machinery will .......There is a simple answer to your problem, just got to find it. For the way it is now, it ain't worth two cents to anybody from what you are stateing about the RTV ....</p>


I've been around RTV's now for 2 1/2 years. Never seen your problem show up. ALL the RTV's I have delt with has been strong as a ox, and will work there ass off !!!! </p>


Hope everything works out OK for you. If worst comes to worst, trade it in on something that will please you and do the work a utility vehicle suppose to do ~~~~</p>


............... two guns </p>


</p>
<div style="clear: both;"></div>


[/quote]</p>


</p>


</p>


Well, the thing is, I went to the dealer at first, about the broken CV shaft. Actually, it wasn't "broken" (the machine wasn't even in 4wd when it shot out) the lack of a steering stop would let the tires revert and hyperextend the CV, spitting it apart at the joint and letting it flop out on the ground. Did this once on a new shaft, and twice more on used shafts before I decided to either make my own stops or get rid of the thing. Anyway, when I went to the dealer I maintained a cool and collected attitude when I asked about the situation with the steering stops, and if others were having similar issues. He said they used to replace them fairly often, but that it didn't seem as bad now as it used to be. He figured it might just be people not trying to "Do what it wasn't made for". And while I knew that pulling over a small limb wasn't too much to ask, I couldn't speak for the other people who had whitnessed a failure, so I didn't push the matter. After the "good" price I got of just over 400 dollars all said and done for the shaft, then spending time tearing the front end apart and swapping it out I have to say I was a bit less than enthused about the vehicle anymore. Plus, knowing what I WASN'T doing when it broke, I was honestly scared to even take it out anymore. It did a LOT of sitting after that. I refused to let anyone drive it anywhere after that. Cause I knew that just turning around in the barnyard, or the pasture was plenty of cause for concern, as that is literally ALL it would take to pop one out again (ruining it) if you hit a slight bump, or a log, rock, anything. At some point, I think it was on my next service, I was back at the dealer getting filters oil and all that and while he was pulling the parts I went outside to look at the new 1100 models. In the process I just couldn't help but look to see if they had fixed the steering geometry issue on them, and when I looked down..... right before my eyes were the steering stops I had YEARNED for. I then walked down a couple machines and looked under an RTV900 and low and behold..... there they were, on ALL OF THEM. So, needless to say, I was a bit less than happy about that, given the conversation I had had with the parts guy merely a month or so previously asking if there was ANY kind of stop that I might be missing....</p>


Was there a recall? Some kind of program to provide them to early RTV owners at a severely reduced cost..... considering that they never CAME with something so crucial? Um.... no. Nothing. Just a part number and a price (slaps forehead). Not to MENTION..... that nobody felt it appropriate to SAY something about that little change when myself, and anyone else, came in to replace the broken CV caused BY that...</p>


Now I'm not coming down on the dealer completely. They seem like damn good guys, and in fact, there should have been a TSB on it, and a RECALL. That would have put it out of their hands, and the problem could have been resolved as it should have been.</p>


</p>


But that just seems to be the way this thing has gone for me.... Crappy steering (it still stuffs the tires in pathetic situations) but at least because I now have stops it doesn't actually pop the CV's out anymore. You can just see the tire flopping all around when the steering geometry gets past its usefull range.</p>


The machine COULD be something great. And I think that might be what's so frustrating. You've got a diesel, power steering power dump 4x4 machine...... yet it can't pull the hat off your head. If I didn't think it would cost half as much as I payed for it I would let a dealer do whatever they wanted to it. But I can see it potentially needing a revised shift fork....... revised hydros/plate and such...... maybe some fixes on the steering...... the thing with the floppy 4wd shaft..... it really needs a lower reverse ratio, although I doubt there's anything to be done with it now...</p>


Basically a mind-numbing bill if I had to guess. If a CV shaft and steering stops caused by poor design cost me over $400, I can't imagine what a dealer "tune up" would run me.</p>


So as it stands, if any of you know the specifics, I could check the prices for said parts and choose certain things over others and do the work myself. </p>


For instance, if I could figure out why I can't get anymore fuel out of it, I could then add a turbocharger and certainly increase power 50% or so without much issue. Then again, the trans that struggles to hold the power it has now would be even worse off then.</p>


It's a circle of somewhat small issues, that together seriously detract from the vehicle's worth.</p>


</p>


Little help with the specifics (other than.... "take it to the dealer") and I might be able to justify the fixes. The fuel and the trans would make the thing 300% better off alone. The steering I can deal with. Just can't forget and get to doing something and not realize I've got it full lock and bump into anything, like a hill, or a limb or anything. But that kind of thing I can deal with a lot better than the immobility issues. Especially if it were the only real issue. Floppy front drive shaft? No big deal. Wouldn't bother me a bit. I'm not asking for much. Just basic functionality.</p>


</p>


</p>
 
If you are mechanically inclind and have access to hydraulic test gauges, we can start from a basic entry level hydraulic test,checking first off charge pressure, then checking relief pressures for forward/reverse.But I am almost possitive that your pump plates are shot, or you may not have charge pressure,.. which of course is a problem because of worn plates.</p>


</p>


If you are willing to go full circle with the machine I will supply my experise, but if its going to be a waste of my time, let me know cause I am busy with 2 jobs plus we are haying. </p>


</p>


</p>


</p>


</p>
 

Charles

Member
I've been there many times myself. And I know the frustration when you lend your time and someone sluffs off and bails on you mid swing.</p>


</p>


I am very busy as well, although we already got up our first cut of hay this year (actually toated the bales in the RTV, yes I was amazed and thankful I could use it for something like that).</p>


All I can promise is that I will take your advise step by step. Although I cannot say that I will have time each night, or even each week to mess with it. Although I usually have some time on the weekends, usually Sunday, I don't always even have that, so it might take me a while to complete each part.</p>


I think I am capable of working through the tasks themselves though. I do a decent amount of design/fabrication as a hobby, including ATV tube chassis/suspension and full ground-up design work, as well as work with light diesels. I hand fabricated a compound turbocharger setup for my 7.3L truck 3 or so years ago that has been working well, and sees regular service on my daily driver. </p>


If the requirements are sourcing gauges/hose assemblies and such, as well as dissasembling/re-assembling components I should do fine. Although as I said, time will be a limitation that I can't avoid.</p>


</p>


The first thing I would be interested in would be fixing the swash plate issue. If swash plate isn't an appropriate term forgive me, it's been a couple years since I last discussed this with anyone. As you stated, lets just assume that it's warped/F'ed to begin with. Cause I highly doubt that these things are supposed to perform like this based on everyone's views.</p>


So what would be the most efficient/cost-effective way to resolve that with the most up-to-date components available? Also, did they alter the reverse gear ratio on subsequent models? If so..... is there any way to fix that at this point? It just seems way high. It will run in reverse much, much faster than it will run in "L". Almost seems more akin to the ratio for "M" than for "L", which would seem more appropriate.</p>


But mainly, how do I repair the hydrostatic portion of the trans?</p>


And thanks.</p>
 

Peanut

Well-known member
SUPER Site Supporter
no i gotta keep the rhino.i would definatly take that rtv in for a checkup though that thing sounds like something is wrong</p>
 
2 RTV 900's, bought in 05 new. Both machines have always been serviced by me, with all Kubota filters and HDT fluids. Aproaching 4000 hours on both units. </p>


</p>


There are a few things that the 05's have major problems with, that will cause a lack of power. First is the air filter housing and intake. there is a small "J" part in the intake that serves as a pee trap, clean it out first. If you ever load the bed of your RTV with anything from a loader or skid, then you clogged the air filter. Guaranteed. Makeshift a high-rise intake for yours or buy one from Kubota (they know about the problem). THe fuel filters need to be changed about every 250 hours.. regardless of smoke, loss of power, or just thought about it. Little plastic in-line filter made for a lawn mower. </p>


</p>


The rear drive axles, as any of us would call them, or output shafts (as Kubota calls them) in 05, came with non greaseable u-joints. There is an upgraded version... just get them. </p>


</p>


After 4,000 hours. And with every-brother-and-their-dad driving these machines I can say... Good Mules. </p>


As for power. We plow snow all winter with these machines. I've had mine burried in drifts of 4' and was STUCK!~ But, not waking up a 2am, and being grumpy too boot, I've plowed a lot snow. I'd only recommend plumbing a plow direction cylinder from the dump bed valve... because getting out to change direction on the plow really sucks that early in the morning. </p>


I have herd, and have been promised a show of a turbo for the RTV 900. </p>


</p>


The cab on the 900 is crap. Less than crap its crap under crap. Curtis Cab should pay me for dealing with crap, becasue they made a crap cab. .. The 1100 (new model) is promising, and I'll be adding two of them, hopefully, next quarter. (With Kubota cabs) </p>


IF! you have anyone other than yourself checking and adding fluids... check the hydraulic resivour beside the antifreeze resivour (under the seat) because some people seem to mistake the hyd. res. for antifreeze and add water... then you have RTVs smashing into things because they can't steer! </p>


</p>


It's a working thing, not a 60mph play thing. </p>


</p>


</p>


</p>
 

TWO GUNS

Senior Member
Site Supporter
[quote user="thomasnchy"]</p>


</p>


</p>


It's a working thing, not a 60mph play thing. </p>


</p>


</p>


</p>
<div style="CLEAR: both"></div>


[/quote]</p>


******************** AMEN !!!!!!</p>


</p>
 

Onfoot

Member
[quote user="TWO GUNS"]</p>


[quote user="thomasnchy"]</p>


It's a working thing, not a 60mph play thing. </p>


</p>
<div style="clear: both;"></div>


[/quote]</p>


******************** AMEN !!!!!!</p>


[/quote]</p>


Double 'Amen!' My Prowler is a 60mph (well, 55mph, actually) plaything. The Kubota works for a living.</p>


</p>
 

bordercollie

Gold Site Supporter
Gold Site Supporter
So Thomas, What all have you replaced or had repaired on the RTV with those hours? I have replaced the front driveshaft (rattler) several times the carrier bearing there 2x ,the rear ujoints, ball joints once, I am curious about the longivity of the injector pump and other expensive items. What about adjusting the valves on the engine? I have just over 2800 hrs on mine and use it only on the farm.I do my own repairs unless major stuff. Bordercollie</p>
 

Charles

Member
To the "It's a work thing not a play thing" comment...</p>


</p>


To date, mine's a "Take the garbage to the road and pick up the mail PLAY THING". And even then you had better not turn around in the road past the mailbox and accidentally go into the ditch on the other side a little (like you would in any other vehicle, pickup trucks, golf cart, lawnmower, etc...) because it will roll the tire back into the wheel wheel hard and likely spit another CV shaft out on the ground.</p>


</p>


</p>


Here's a video of it trying to back up a hill in the pasture. A hill that the tractor mowed sideways. We're not talking about a steep hill here. Golfcart will truck right up it carrying seed bags but the Kubota can't back up the hill dead empty... That's to the floor and everything in between and it simply sits and grunts. Won't move.</p>


[View:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZPgLW-1cFWI]</p>


</p>


There's a bury pit right on top of that hill that I would love to be able to back up to and dump brush and such into. Unfortunately, my "workhorse" of a UTV cannot even go up the hill empty, much less with any kind of load. </p>


You think it's asking too much for a diesel 4x4 machine to be able to back up a hill that it can drive on sideways? FWIW, if it's loaded, it won't go up the hill in "L" anymore.</p>


</p>


</p>


</p>
 

TWO GUNS

Senior Member
Site Supporter
There is somethingwrong for sure !!!</p>


I've never seen anything like that !!!!</p>


That justis not right ~~~ </p>


Hate that you are going threw all this !!!!</p>


.......... jamie </p>
 

Charles

Member
I don't always get home before dark, and I thought a video would go a mile where my text would only go an inch here, so I shot a video even though it was dark. I realize it is of poor visual quality, but I think it should suffice to show the fact that it wasn't moving and the engine was revving and getting pulled down but no spinning or moving, just noise and heat.</p>


If it's needed, I'll try and take another video in the daylight if I have a chance.</p>


</p>


Also, 07Rhino. My email account has likely changed since I first registered on this site. I'll check to see if I can edit it, if not, just post the information on the forum for now if that's acceptable. </p>


And Thanks.</p>
 

TWO GUNS

Senior Member
Site Supporter
After looking at the video, Onecould tell very well by the engine noise, and not moving worth a crap !!!! It is obvious, that there is a problem !!!!</p>
 
Charles...Yup! You definitely have a sick puppy. I'm in the process of excavating for a concrete slab for my new workshop so used the occassion to load up my RTV with heavy rain soaked muck and proceeded to "play" around. Tried backing up and going forward on various inclines, one of which is probably similiar to a 4/12 roof pitch, stopping mid way and then continuing etc. No difficulty encountered. Had to shut the sucker down though in order to shift from L to R. </p>


I,m curious if yours is hard to shift or does the lack of hydro pressure in your case make the shifting easy????</p>


. Good luck and keep us posted on this issue. BTW..My dealer although a nice guy is more interested in me trading mine in on a new one than addressing my service issues. I think some of them need education on the value of a satisfied owner translates into repeat business. 25 years ago I bought a new car from a dealer who is big on volume, competitive on price and as I discouvered lousy on service. Of the 10 or so car purchases I've made since, not one came from these guys...I didn,t even consider them. Too bad bota dealers tend to be far apart making shopping around difficult.</p>
 
[quote user="Charles"]</p>


I don't always get home before dark, and I thought a video would go a mile where my text would only go an inch here, so I shot a video even though it was dark. I realize it is of poor visual quality, but I think it should suffice to show the fact that it wasn't moving and the engine was revving and getting pulled down but no spinning or moving, just noise and heat.</p>


If it's needed, I'll try and take another video in the daylight if I have a chance.</p>


</p>


Also, 07Rhino. My email account has likely changed since I first registered on this site. I'll check to see if I can edit it, if not, just post the information on the forum for now if that's acceptable. </p>


And Thanks.</p>
<div style="clear: both;"></div>


[/quote]</p>


</p>


Just click on the contact to the top right of this box and email me with your new email</p>


</p>


Watching your video does it do it in med/high as well going forward, if all is well foreward you might have a faulty reverse relief valve. But we can test that when you get set up to start checking pressures.</p>


</p>
 
Top