non starting kubota

shinnlinger

Member
Well well,

I got home from work today and jumped on the rig to do a little snowstorm cleanup and take some pics for the wing blade crowd, but no go. Nothing, no lights, nothing. So I roll out the start cart and hook it up. Now the lights work nice and bright but the engine only turns slowly and clicks like a dead battery, which is odd, because the start cart always starts the tractor if it is real cold, and today wasn't that cold, being all the way up in the teens.

I let it set a bit on 50 amp charge and hook up my magnetic block heater. 20 minutes later switch back to start, exact same deal. I tried the jump at the terminals, but I also tried it right at the starter and grounding to the engine block. Same clicking. The battery is about 3 years old and a bit suspect so I pulled that and it is trickle charging. It had fluid though and seems to be taking a charge. I should have stuck a meter to it, but I didn't for some reason.

Meanwhile I go hook the start cart up to the rig with no battery and still only get the clicking.

What should I do. Charge the battery and if it has over 12 volts stick it back in (kind of a pain in the butt) making sure all the connections are clean and good or not even waste my time and take the battery in and get it tested knowing I need a new one?

I could have more of an electrical problem because I also heard a new whinning sound from in the console somewhere. I am drawing over 17 amps with all the lights on so the charging system is probably taxed a bit, but it hasnt been a problem in the 2 years I have been doing it.

If the alternator is craping out and part of the problem I will probably retrofit an auto one for higher output as has been done on this site most recently by oldcow hand on his bush hog but I think there is a Yanmar thread on this as well.

On many motorcycles if the battery isn't close to 100% forget so maybe it is just that, but this might turn into a good thread.
 
Last edited:

shinnlinger

Member
I just found this on the web, it was an answer to a L3600 w/the same problem I have....

Could it be as simple as a dead battery. I replaced my 2002 diesel's battery just recently. Glow plugs and diesels in general are hard on Batts. I missed the diagnosis several times. Only a battery load tester sniffed out the problem, a battery that couldn;t produce under a simulated load. A battery charger with boost was no substitute for the bad battery. Also couldn't boost start the tractor with the defective battery in place or out of the loop. Diesels just take a bunch of power to heat then crank, especially in winter.

Looks like I will take the battery in knowing I will probably be buying a new one...at least I will have the "core in hand"

There was a post sort of realated to this under fuel, but alot of folks run 50%kerosene in their machines around here in the winter. I used to think it was soley for the anti-gel properties, but if it flashes better it could be for quicker starts also.
 

Doc

Admin
Staff member
Gold Site Supporter
Timely info for me. I have a 2002 Kubota L3010. I'm guessing I'll be needing a battery soon. It turns over like new currently, but I suppose when it goes it will do it all of the sudden like yours did.
Good post!!!!
 

Mark777

Member
Sounds suspiciously like a bad ground connection either at the frame or grounding cable inside the insulation and near the battery end. How do they look?
 

shinnlinger

Member
Mark,

I have yet to really look it over as it was cold and dark and my new wingblade does make it tough to park it in the barn these days, but they didn't look horrendous and I did ground the start cart right to the block. regardless I think I will at least pull the strap and lube it up with some dielectric grease.

The positive terminal on the other hand didn't look so hot and I will replace that, but again, I put the juice right to the starter itself with no better luck.

Hopfully I can deal with the battery tomorrow and that will do it. I am in a cold clime here and the battery is going into its 4th winter so I guess I can't complain. All the lights I have run off it (17 amps worth) aren't doing me any favors either and I may need to swap in a bigger alternator.
 
If all it is doing is ticking when you turn the key, I'd put money on the battery or the selenoid. Seeing as you have jumped it directly to the starter, I'd go with selenoid.
 

shinnlinger

Member
Civeswhatever,

Would there be any warning signs that a solonoid was going? I wonder if mine is integral to the starter or not. Could I stick a Ford type (remote) solonoid on it? A new starter for my machine is selling on ebay for $230 so I am hoping I don't have to go that route. Why does every other kubota have $100 starters?

There is a local rebuilder that did a nice job on my dump truck starter starter but he wasn't much cheaper and that was a 1952 6volt unit.
 
Sometimes no warning at all, other times starter might stick a little. Check and see if it's integral or if the selenoid can be removed from the starter. If it can you might be able to replace just the selenoid.

If you can get a good picture of it I might be able to tell you if that is possible.

Other than a new on a good rebuilder is always nice to have.
 

Archdean

Member
Before I spent one dime I'd suggest investing an hour of your time with some Arm&Hammer baking soda mixed in water and clean every terminal in your starting circuit!

What worked yesterday in warm WX wont work as the temps go south and the corroded metal contacts shrink just enough to allow poor to no contact! 4 years on a battery is about max but should start with jump as long as it is not completely shorted!
 

shinnlinger

Member
Deaner,

you are right on the terminal cleaning and I do plan to do that. That trick has saved me a few times on the old dodge dart .

Civenswhoo,

I might have had a slight stick yesterday so you might be on to something, but I hope you are wrong if you know what I mean.

I will trickle charge my battery tonight and have it load tested tomorrow to determine it's fate. And then hopefully test it with a good battery and clean terminals tomorrow evening.
 
Sounds suspiciously like a bad ground connection either at the frame or grounding cable inside the insulation and near the battery end. How do they look?

Thats what it sounds like to me as well. Thats what mine did when I first got it. Put a new battery in and the same thing. Then discovered the bad cable ground at the frame. No problem since.:mrgreen:
 

shinnlinger

Member
Folks,

Well today I finally got to work on the rig. I trickle charged the old battery and took it in to my local car quest and they told me the battery was good so Civenwho's guess of a bad solenoid/starter seemed like the likley culprit, but hey I needed to mess with it anyway and with the temps way up in the high 20's it was the perfect day to clean up the leads as the rest of you suggested. Everything looked pretty good but I pulled them apart and spiffed them up and reassembled with the dielectric grease. I happened to have a new positive strap the right length and the battery in my multi meter was dead, so I just replaced that even though the new one is only 4 guage and the old one was 2, but what do you know the dang thing started!

Just goes to show what a little elbow grease can overcome when at first it seems expensive.

Interestingly, now it won't shut off and I had to stall it out. I must have blown the key kill fuse in my jumping attempts (or at least I hope thats what I did) but at least it runs again so I can mess around with the wing blade some more.
 
Top