Kubota RTV x1100c LED Light Bar

soccertoad20

New member
I've had my RTV x1100c for a few months now and I love it. I finally got around to adding some LED light bars. I searched quite a bit and found tons of different types, sizes, and mounting concepts from other people. I went with a 42" led (I think 960 W) on the front and two 4" floods (I think 54 W a piece) on the back. All came from Ebay. Some guys at work helped me with a mount for the front led. We came up with more of an "L" shape bracket that we bent to kind of conform to the curve of the roof to get the led low. I wasn't wanting to increase the overall height of the unit too much with the light and if I ever got into a clearance problem I wasn't wanting to rip the light off. I'll get some more close ups later on of the mount.

I bought a pack of illuminated rocker switches from Ebay and put them in the switch panel just below the radio. They work great. I didn't get any wiring kits or anything from Kubota so I cut off the molex type connectors and added my own connectors to attach to my switches and lights. Not too big of an issue to do. Also, the rear lights are only prewired to the back left mount so I put in some jumper wires to get power to the right side.

Since I took these pictures I had one of the floods cause me a tons of headaches by blowing fuses left and right. Short story, there was some sort of grounding issue with that particular light so I threw it away. I had two extra 4" spot lights from a previous project and decided to add them too. So for the moment I have the left side with one flood and one spot 4" led and the right has one spot 4" led. I'll have to get some pictures of that later on.

If you have any questions of what I did let me know and I'll do my best to answer them.
 

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I've had my RTV x1100c for a few months now and I love it. I finally got around to adding some LED light bars. I searched quite a bit and found tons of different types, sizes, and mounting concepts from other people. I went with a 42" led (I think 960 W) on the front and two 4" floods (I think 54 W a piece) on the back. All came from Ebay. Some guys at work helped me with a mount for the front led. We came up with more of an "L" shape bracket that we bent to kind of conform to the curve of the roof to get the led low. I wasn't wanting to increase the overall height of the unit too much with the light and if I ever got into a clearance problem I wasn't wanting to rip the light off. I'll get some more close ups later on of the mount.

I bought a pack of illuminated rocker switches from Ebay and put them in the switch panel just below the radio. They work great. I didn't get any wiring kits or anything from Kubota so I cut off the molex type connectors and added my own connectors to attach to my switches and lights. Not too big of an issue to do. Also, the rear lights are only prewired to the back left mount so I put in some jumper wires to get power to the right side.

Since I took these pictures I had one of the floods cause me a tons of headaches by blowing fuses left and right. Short story, there was some sort of grounding issue with that particular light so I threw it away. I had two extra 4" spot lights from a previous project and decided to add them too. So for the moment I have the left side with one flood and one spot 4" led and the right has one spot 4" led. I'll have to get some pictures of that later on.

If you have any questions of what I did let me know and I'll do my best to answer them.

Pictures of the mount/bracket and links would be awesome. I’m trying to get started on the project soon

Brett
 

71sschevelle

Gold Site Supporter
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I put 36 inch bar. Used factory mounting plates
 

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71sschevelle

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Light bar on factory mounts
 

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71sschevelle

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So you just drilled thru the factory plate for the bolt? Which light bar did you go with? This is exactly what I’m looking for

Brett

No drilling. Just used bolts in threaded holes. 36 inch bar from superbrightled I think it was titan with adjustable mounts
 

squerly

Active member
Gold Site Supporter
Rusty, I had a 50" lightbar on my Jeep. Worked fine but lacked the ability to put light anywhere except straight in front of me. I grew tired of that in a hurry. On my 1100 I put on this light (several years ago) and it's still working just fine. Directional and much more useful than a lightbar. For my use anyway...

Not knocking lightbars, just saying you might want to consider all your options... :)

BTW, good hearing from ya!
 
Rusty, I had a 50" lightbar on my Jeep. Worked fine but lacked the ability to put light anywhere except straight in front of me. I grew tired of that in a hurry. On my 1100 I put on this light (several years ago) and it's still working just fine. Directional and much more useful than a lightbar. For my use anyway...

Not knocking lightbars, just saying you might want to consider all your options... :)

BTW, good hearing from ya!

Man that’s pretty slick. Wonder how it would work on the hood. Still like it after a couple years?

Brett
 

soccertoad20

New member
Not sure why it's working. I just know it's on my rtv and it's working just fine. Yes, it is running through the relay that is prewired from the factory that has a 15 amp fuse. I can turn on all my lights and everything runs great. LED lights don't pull much power at all compared to regular lighting. Maybe the 960 W is incorrect from the seller, which could be a very real possibility. Are you sure the 110 W is correct?
 

bczoom

Senior Member
Staff member
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I'll give a big ole +1 on the GoLight Stryker! I have one on my RTV and it's definitely bright, versatile and problem free.

As for putting it on the hood, I see some pros/cons.
- The main pro is that it's lower than your line-of-sight so it'll work better in the snow. Secondly, it's more protected from overhead obstructions.
- For cons, the first is that you can't use it for a 360° view to see behind you. Secondly, since you're not mounting it on a level surface, when you sweep it to the sides, you'll need to adjust the elevation as well as direction. Unless you want to drill holes in your hood, you'll need the suction cup mount. Since the RTV's hood isn't flat, not sure if it can get a good suction grip on it.

How do you power 960Watt off a 110Watt rated circuit? Using a relay on a 60 amp line?
Are you referring to the GoLight Squerly mentioned? If so, it's not 960 watt, it's 35 watt.
 

CKing

Active member
Not sure why it's working. I just know it's on my rtv and it's working just fine. Yes, it is running through the relay that is prewired from the factory that has a 15 amp fuse. I can turn on all my lights and everything runs great. LED lights don't pull much power at all compared to regular lighting. Maybe the 960 W is incorrect from the seller, which could be a very real possibility. Are you sure the 110 W is correct?

You check wiring diagram from my link WSM RTV-X1100C.

Do you happen to remember what gauge wire the light had on its harness? I was looking on Ebay some are rated at 2600W, that would take a battery cable to run it. Wish the Chinese would hire some people who understand english to write their docs.
 

CKing

Active member
You check wiring diagram from my link WSM RTV-X1100C.

Do you happen to remember what gauge wire the light had on its harness? I was looking on Ebay some are rated at 2600W, that would take a battery cable to run it. Wish the Chinese would hire some people who understand english to write their docs.

Sent the supplier on Ebay for request of the amperage draw of that 42" 960W led bar and correct wire size?
 

squerly

Active member
Gold Site Supporter
Man that’s pretty slick. Wonder how it would work on the hood. Still like it after a couple years?

Brett
Yep, I looked at the thread and it's actually been 6 years since I installed it. I use it all the time. Highly recommend!
 

soccertoad20

New member
Here are some pics of the mounts I made. I think it was 1/4" steel plate that was scrap at work and cut it into a "L" shape and then bent it down a little to get the light bar lower. A guy at work powder coated it for me. Worked really well and looks very nice.
 

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soccertoad20

New member
Here is a pic of my current setup for the rear lights. The two inside lights are spot lights aimed straight back and the outer one is a flood light aimed towards the side a little. I need to order some new flood lights for the back as one had a ground issue.

I'll eventually get all the lighting done on this thing.
 

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soccertoad20

New member
Has anyone upgraded to led headlights? I've found some online and they all have different styles of led layouts on the bulb. I know the reflector housing design can potentially cause the leds to not throw its light very well.

Just wondering if anyone has bought some and it worked well.

I did get a pair of Xenon lights and they are more of a white color like leds (not the yellow color like the stock lights) and throws slightly more light than the stock lights but if I can get more light I'd like it.

When I go down the road at night I use my overhead led light bar but when a car comes I turn it off and just have the headlights on which is nothing compared to the light bar.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.
 

bczoom

Senior Member
Staff member
Gold Site Supporter
For the OEM headlights, whatever you put in there for replacements, just watch out for heat. As I recall from years ago, people were replacing the OEM bulbs with something (Halogen?) and it would melt the reflector housing.
 

ItBmine

Well-known member
Funny you mentioned that soccertoad20. When I replaced my dealer installed halogen lights with two LED's on the ROPS of my B2620 I had the same issues. I used the dealers wiring that worked and only one forward facing LED would work and it kept blowing fuses.

Take them off and test by themselves, both worked. Checked wiring and ground, no problem. Put them back on tractor, blow fuses.
Even my light dealer couldn't figure it out. So I bought a bigger single light bar with way more wattage, drawing more amps and never blew a 5 amp fuse again???
 

soccertoad20

New member
Yep sounds just like my issue. Probably had a small short in the housing and would ground out against the mount. My hot and ground wires worked just fine for the individual lights just to test them but once I put that one bad one on it would blow every time.

Thankfully that was the issue. I wasn't wanting to have to take in my brand new machine to have their wiring replaced and be without it for a while.
 
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