900XT Spark Arrestor

Spark arrestor clean was overdue - 100 hours since the last time. First bolt came out easily, second seized after a few easy turns - probably carbon on the thread - so I sheared it off. Might have been smarter to grind the head off and screw it through into the muffler. Fortunately it drilled out leaving the thread ok. I've replaced the bolts with new ones shortened so they don't protrude into the inside of the muffler, and copper anti-seize on the thread, hoping I won't have that problem again.

Arrestor was almost blocked. After a clean, the RTV drives as though it's had a larger engine fitted - transformed. I'll be cleaning the arrestor more frequently in the future.

Here in Australia with summer coming on, an arrestor isn't an option, it's essential for personal safety - Sheepfarmer will confirm that.

When those things get dirty it really cuts down on your power. I put never seize on mine every time and haven't had a problem. They do plug up way to fast.

Hi, If you have that problem again, Try this.. after you spray with lube and get it to move a bit , lob on the lube again and snug the bolt/nut back up. Then loosen a few rounds and repeat with plenty of lube added each time. It will finally get in the threads and make it easier to advance. I don't know if it would work with carbon but it does with rust. I'm glad you got your engine's performance back. They are an awesome machine -especially on a farm. bordercollie

should work with carbon too

Good to hear it all worked out in end
I dodo mine every 25-50 hrs
We do need them in summer if we start a fire
It will be over for us

My 2010 RTV 900 that I bought last year with 48 hours on it, had a spark arrestor almost completely clogged up. I then cut off my spark arrester inside the muffler on my RTV 900 and left the outside tail piece. I then installed a Super-Trapp Resonator with spark arrestor diffuser discs. I installed 12 discs on my unit even though they say one disc per 7 HP and the resonator was added to help reduce noise. After 50 hours, no clogging yet. Use anti-seize lubricant on those muffler screws and it will help with future removal. Here is a link for the spark arrestor:

http://www.jackssmallengines.com/Products/Super-Trapp/Quiet-Mufflers/Model-5S-Quiet-Mufflers

do have some pics of it?

Sheep Farmer,
The Super-Trapp website is given below. Look under ATV to find FAQ's about the diffuser discs and other useful info. I used all 12 of the diffuser discs I purchased, added after the picture was taken, because I left the stock RTV muffler on and assumed it was getting the required back pressure.

In the picture of my setup, I added a flexible exhaust pipe from the stock muffler tailpipe, after I cut off the tailpipe bend, to the Super-Trapp along with some flexible hanger straps from the auto parts store, but you can actually put it closer to heat sensitive parts because of the way it diffuses the heat. Also note that the solid looking part is the resonator that adds about 4 inches to the length, something you may no want to use. If you just use the diffuser discs, you may have enough clearance to attach it right to the end of the tailpipe with the bend, but be sure to support it. Remember that I cut off the stock spark arrestor that is attached to the tailpipe inside the stock muffler.

Check my picture gallery here on NetTractorTalk to see some of my other mods and accessories. By the way, everyone on this site is very helpful and willing to share information.

http://www.supertrapp.com/

Thanks mate!!
For picture will look at website

does it affect power?

Muffler Man,
I do not notice any power loss using this device. The passage through the resonator is about the same diameter of the tail pipe with some holes on the inside. The diffuser discs allow the exhaust to flow out 360 degrees and is very free flowing, as good or better than the stock arrestor, and it doesn't clog very easily.

You guys made me feel so guilty. I read this thread and realized I'd never, ever, in 1980 hours of operation, cleaned the spark arrestor on my RTV.

So, drove it to the shop, removed the screw, which came out very easily by the way, and took a look at it. I could see through it. It wasn't plugged solid or anything. It was black but certainly didn't look like it was going to inhibit performance.

I still had the bucket of mineral spirits I used to clean the CV joints I just put new boots on, so I sozzled it in there, brushed it and blew it dry with compressed air. I did that about three times and it looked pretty much like new.

I put a drop of copper based Loctite anti-seize (C5 I think it's called) on the screw and reattached it to the exhaust pipe.

I leaped into the seat, fire it up and it drove ... just fine. Just the same as it did before I cleaned it. No noticeable change in performance at all.

Not sure why it stays so clean but I'm certainly not going to complain.

Fitch

PS: I put a drop of that copper anti seize on light bulb bases before I screw them in. The stuff works great for that.

frw

I did some checking. The tail pipe broke off the muffler on our RTV in the first 90 days we owned it. The dealer replaced the muffler with a new one. The spark arrestor on ours is a small gadget that attaches to the end of the tail pipe. It has a convoluted screen that sticks back a few inches into the tail pipe.

The 'new' muffler, which is 10+ years old, is still in remarkably good shape, at least on the outside as this picture, taken about a year ago during the bed repair, shows. You can see the spark arrestor that is attached to the end of the tail pipe.

The pictures of the plugged spark arrestors earlier convinced me I should pay attention to this. I've no idea why the one on our RTV didn't plug up to the point of power reduction, it should have, but it didn't.

Fitch

Fuel quality and how you run it have a lot to do with it. Mine has only been apart once in 8 years and it was far from clogged. A good run down the road to my lower fields and running winter blend with kero mixed in helps I am sure.

I think fuel quality is the biggest issue.Diesel is one of the dirtyest fuels out there iMO.
I always use an additive on mine.Im not sure how it effected the spark arrester as I removed mine a week after I bought the machine.Its still sitting on the shelf looking like new.Spark arestors are a total pain in the Obama and IMO are not even needed unless you drive around in a hay pile that has been completly dried out.And then it still may not be needed.You dont see cars with them on them and the only reason they have the arrester on them is because some dumb ass buerocrate didnt have nothing better to do so her spent millions on a worthless study and said lets screw everyone and make them mandatory.
If you want something screwed up let the GOVT do it!

Adjustment of the injection pump probably affects it. If people boost the fuel delivery to the point the Diesel engine makes black smoke it results in more unburned hydrocarbon particulate in the exhaust. I've never messed with mine nor have I done anything to the pressures in the transmission. The power train is box stock. Never see even a whiff of black smoke out of it.

I left it on for lots of reasons, not the least of which are it doesn't bother anything and our RTV is parked in the hay barn. It also spends time in dry fields and dry woods during the July droughts. I don't know if it could set anything on fire but it costs me nothing to be sure. I had to have them added to my dirt bikes when I lived in So. Cal.

Fitch