Makita worm drive

There seem to be an endless supply of free old drill-drivers because the batterys and chargers are expensive. I'm finding that the drill itself is always (so far) still good. I previously posted an 18V unit test powering a worm, or screw drive front tractor blade. I hope to test again today with power from car batterys....but right now, this is a 12V Makita that is ready to be mounted for work via a trailer tongue screw jack. I marvel at the gear pack inside Makita's.
Again, it's a big deal that the little drivers already offer forward/reverse and speed control. I'm confident that a Makita could drive a play car for a child, and do it more reliably than the store-bought ones. Those cars have lots of problems due to complex switches for motor control. I also plan to try them on lighweight riding mowers to control a front blade or rear lift. All indications are that it will also be able to operate a small front bucket with limited lift travel...and yet transport material from here to there.

I will be testing a flex-drive that could apply here. It is simply a segment of drain auger with an appropriate diameter size. I have a 3' piece of 1/2" and just need to make couplers. I suppose I will run it inside PVC for containment. The goal is to keep the drill driver intact and at my fingertip and yet drive something a distance away.

Although the pic doesn't do my shop any compliments, it does show the main elements of a proper shop: Wood stove, wood rocking chair, dog house(way back), some projects going on and a mix of clutter to enhance the illusion of activity. It seems I had removed the wine bottle, pipe and dip...but they are also crucial for any REAL design, invention or implementation.

12V Makita lift test

If I use a drill driver to power an implement lift I will obviously have to make the controls at my fingertips like my hydraulic lifts. I don't see a problem doing that, just a matter of laying it out. In addition to the stated benefits (in the prior posts) there is the option of driving from the drill with a flex line to make installation easier and more versatile. I will play around with a segment of power drain auger, perhaps contained in PVC.
When I cut the chuck off I also cut the clutch adjustment dial off too, so I wedged the control and drilled and pinned it for max. power. Since it still slips when I tried to lift in high gear I presume I didn't get the control pin pushed back all the way. No problem though because it moves quite fast in low gear and has power to spare. It should operate a long time from a car battery too.

I love it! Now this is appropriate re-use of stuff too good to throw away.

My little tent trailer has a removable hand crank to raise the roof. Cranking it up was always the kids assignment, but now they're grown and gone. I have thought of making an adapter to crank it with a cordless drill.

California...I'm in Redding, Ca.
I appreciate your reply. There is a significant reality here, the little drill driver doesn't carry the load. If it were used for blade control, perhaps angle...it would be the worm gear that holds position with no load placed on the drill. In hydraulics you have to provide a cylinder that is not only able to move the object - but hold it in position. That might mean a significantly larger cylinder than actually needed for the movement.

I also have several sailboats. I gave our 26' sailboat to my older son and he's restoring it. Since he has offered us the use of his moored boat, I might make a lift for the outboard motor. Squeeze the trigger - up she comes and no further need for catches etc. The screw will hold in any position.

I posted pic's of a worm drive dump bed, but didn't mention that I made a backup system with a DeWalt drill driver. If the switch or wire connection should fail there is no way to get in there, so I made an override system that can lower the bed from the tailgate with the drill driver.

I think I will draw up plans to make the apparatus for drill-driver use and post it. Waadayathink?