Repainted California's Yanmar
- Thread starter Mark777
- Start date
Man that's scary.
But it wouldn't be hard to find in the dark!
I don't think Yanmar's green was *that* intense! maybe Tonka used that color!
Incidentally, there's that little tree (white trunk) that I need to move to build a storage area - possibly covered storage or even a little tractor barn. At the moment, right there would also be my tractor painting area which is one reason I am not getting around to it. Can you imagine how much crud would be stuck to the paint?
But it wouldn't be hard to find in the dark!
I don't think Yanmar's green was *that* intense! maybe Tonka used that color!
Incidentally, there's that little tree (white trunk) that I need to move to build a storage area - possibly covered storage or even a little tractor barn. At the moment, right there would also be my tractor painting area which is one reason I am not getting around to it. Can you imagine how much crud would be stuck to the paint?
tinkertoys
Member
Welllll! I guess anything is an improvement. 
. Mine don't look very good up close.
. Mine don't look very good up close.
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What?? You guy's don't appreciate all the time and effort put forth to the repaint? Must have spent over two minutes spray painting that rig. For some reason I started with the rear wheels .
(I gotta get out more often LOL)
That's the little tree that needs a new location? It looks young enough to live through a transplant to me...or at least healthy enough.
.(I gotta get out more often LOL)
That's the little tree that needs a new location? It looks young enough to live through a transplant to me...or at least healthy enough.
You gotta get out more often and quit picking on me!
Just don't put a picture of one of your museum grade refurbs in this thread, unless it is Yanmar Lime Green. I would have to quit posting my working tractor pictures!
Really, you should post some pix (in a new thread!) of your projects for Doc to use in the site banner. I'm pretty sure he doesn't want my Yanmar pix. If you ever take a picture of your tractors actually doing something ... that would be even better.
Mark that's a great photoshop addition to my tractor. How much would it cost to actually paint it?
That was the little tree in late 2003. it's now 6+ ft and therefor marginal to transplant. I have to move it regardless, since I need the work space.
Just don't put a picture of one of your museum grade refurbs in this thread, unless it is Yanmar Lime Green. I would have to quit posting my working tractor pictures!
Really, you should post some pix (in a new thread!) of your projects for Doc to use in the site banner. I'm pretty sure he doesn't want my Yanmar pix. If you ever take a picture of your tractors actually doing something ... that would be even better.
Mark that's a great photoshop addition to my tractor. How much would it cost to actually paint it?
That was the little tree in late 2003. it's now 6+ ft and therefor marginal to transplant. I have to move it regardless, since I need the work space.
California,
Wish I had a dollar for eveytime someone asks that question….but only a fool or a person just filthy rich wouldn’t ask it. I’m going to rely heavily on other painters and body men to agree, disagree, offer more information or just give me the ’nod’ about the following information:
Approximating the paint costs.
Depending on the type of paint and chemistry you choose is directly related to the price and how durable and lasting the finish endures through the next several years. Uncomplacated basic paint like Valspar’s BPS Paint can be shot with mineral spirts, optional hardener, optional Naptha to increase drying times and the paint color you choose for about $35. a gallon. As economical as that sounds you have to figure that the durability of the finish is only 12-18 months when exposed to all the elements of weather. The next choice and a much higher durability rating is acrylic enamel with catylist (hardener) and temeprature specific reducer (thinner) and optional clears. A solid color and related chemistry runs about $90-$120. per gallon. Shine and reflectivity well last 5-6 years, but the paint is susceptible to scratches and chipping for equipment used routinely and in an environment typical of agricultural operation. Polyurethanes, Urethanes and BC/CC cleared paints are indeed the most expensive and on average these paint packages with all the related chemistry to activate them run about $200-$300 per gallon. They offer the most durable finish, elastic topcoat properties that are designed for (other than show car caliber paint jobs) industry and agriculture long term (10-15 years) and tenacious bite (grip). They are easily repairable should you sustain an impact greater than normal operation.
Since all of the above choices are available…cheaper is most often not better. Especially when considering all the preparation including disassembly, cleaning, chemical or abrasive blasting, neutralizing paint ready surfaces, applying substrates (primers), abarasives, Scotch Brite and other stripping-sanding basics will often more than double the costs of the paint chemistry. So now your paint chemistry at $300 totals more than $600 (and a very consertive figure not allowing for any body work, sheet metal straightening, new hardware or parts replacement etc.).
Here’s the deal killer! Labor. To walk into a busy shop and ask for an estimate, believe me when I say it will run a minimum of $2500-$3000. for paint work only. Even a friend in that business or a hungry independent shop owner will estimate that cost of labor at $1800-$2000 or they will soon be out of business if they ask less.
This is why I have, since retired, tried to show the best and least impact on one’s budget is to do it yourself. If you’ve never painted before and you don’t want to plunk down $3K (who does?) then for half of that money you can buy an adequate and simple compressor, airline, inline dryer and fittings, a relatively inexpensive but good HVLP paint gun and do it yourself. The basics of apply paint and preparation are not difficult to learn, apply to all varieties finishes and you will recover you initaial costs on your first complete. And way ahead of the costs on your second project.
Sorry for the long winded response.
Mark
Wish I had a dollar for eveytime someone asks that question….but only a fool or a person just filthy rich wouldn’t ask it. I’m going to rely heavily on other painters and body men to agree, disagree, offer more information or just give me the ’nod’ about the following information:
Approximating the paint costs.
Depending on the type of paint and chemistry you choose is directly related to the price and how durable and lasting the finish endures through the next several years. Uncomplacated basic paint like Valspar’s BPS Paint can be shot with mineral spirts, optional hardener, optional Naptha to increase drying times and the paint color you choose for about $35. a gallon. As economical as that sounds you have to figure that the durability of the finish is only 12-18 months when exposed to all the elements of weather. The next choice and a much higher durability rating is acrylic enamel with catylist (hardener) and temeprature specific reducer (thinner) and optional clears. A solid color and related chemistry runs about $90-$120. per gallon. Shine and reflectivity well last 5-6 years, but the paint is susceptible to scratches and chipping for equipment used routinely and in an environment typical of agricultural operation. Polyurethanes, Urethanes and BC/CC cleared paints are indeed the most expensive and on average these paint packages with all the related chemistry to activate them run about $200-$300 per gallon. They offer the most durable finish, elastic topcoat properties that are designed for (other than show car caliber paint jobs) industry and agriculture long term (10-15 years) and tenacious bite (grip). They are easily repairable should you sustain an impact greater than normal operation.
Since all of the above choices are available…cheaper is most often not better. Especially when considering all the preparation including disassembly, cleaning, chemical or abrasive blasting, neutralizing paint ready surfaces, applying substrates (primers), abarasives, Scotch Brite and other stripping-sanding basics will often more than double the costs of the paint chemistry. So now your paint chemistry at $300 totals more than $600 (and a very consertive figure not allowing for any body work, sheet metal straightening, new hardware or parts replacement etc.).
Here’s the deal killer! Labor. To walk into a busy shop and ask for an estimate, believe me when I say it will run a minimum of $2500-$3000. for paint work only. Even a friend in that business or a hungry independent shop owner will estimate that cost of labor at $1800-$2000 or they will soon be out of business if they ask less.
This is why I have, since retired, tried to show the best and least impact on one’s budget is to do it yourself. If you’ve never painted before and you don’t want to plunk down $3K (who does?) then for half of that money you can buy an adequate and simple compressor, airline, inline dryer and fittings, a relatively inexpensive but good HVLP paint gun and do it yourself. The basics of apply paint and preparation are not difficult to learn, apply to all varieties finishes and you will recover you initaial costs on your first complete. And way ahead of the costs on your second project.
Sorry for the long winded response.
Mark
Mark, thanks for the thoughtful reply. I hadn't realized that the paint and prep materials cost that much. I agree I don't want to do all that labor then cheapskate the materials.
With so many wrinkles in the hood and headlight panel it would be simpler to replace the hood complete, instead of botching it with beginner bodywork. Cleaning up the loader with its repair welds, ratty hoses, and distorted hydraulic 'hard lines' would take days. The bucket is so dinged ... well, forget it.
Add the cost for the gun and its air. Again, cheapskating this would be false economy.
And I don't have a 'clean room'. That open-front maintenance stall is the only one with a concrete floor.
And there's a final consideration. My neighbor who operates this orchard has a different specialty tractor for every task. The NH's dedicated for discing and pulling the big spray rig are recent models but all the rest are unrestored hobby antiques. I think I fit in better into that category, rather than declaring my self a city boy with a showy tractor I'm afraid to scratch up.
Overall, I'll make gradual improvements but I don't think I'll ever do an appearance renovation.
Here's the neighbor on one of his Cletracs. This one is set up for spot spraying herbicide around the tree trunks when the ground is to soggy for a wheel tractor.
With so many wrinkles in the hood and headlight panel it would be simpler to replace the hood complete, instead of botching it with beginner bodywork. Cleaning up the loader with its repair welds, ratty hoses, and distorted hydraulic 'hard lines' would take days. The bucket is so dinged ... well, forget it.
Add the cost for the gun and its air. Again, cheapskating this would be false economy.
And I don't have a 'clean room'. That open-front maintenance stall is the only one with a concrete floor.
And there's a final consideration. My neighbor who operates this orchard has a different specialty tractor for every task. The NH's dedicated for discing and pulling the big spray rig are recent models but all the rest are unrestored hobby antiques. I think I fit in better into that category, rather than declaring my self a city boy with a showy tractor I'm afraid to scratch up.
Overall, I'll make gradual improvements but I don't think I'll ever do an appearance renovation.
Here's the neighbor on one of his Cletracs. This one is set up for spot spraying herbicide around the tree trunks when the ground is to soggy for a wheel tractor.
shinnlinger
Member
Hey I like that version!
Just cleaning up the loader and refinishing with spray-can Rustoleum of its same color is more within my capability, and it may actually look like that someday.
Mark, I admire the work you do but trying to do that myself is so far over my head, that a more rational path for me would be to just buy a clean tractor. If I felt a need for a clean tractor. Then I would worry about every little scratch.
Here I'm reopening an abandoned terrace down in the back of the orchard where the berry bushes got the upper hand for a while.
Just cleaning up the loader and refinishing with spray-can Rustoleum of its same color is more within my capability, and it may actually look like that someday.
Mark, I admire the work you do but trying to do that myself is so far over my head, that a more rational path for me would be to just buy a clean tractor. If I felt a need for a clean tractor. Then I would worry about every little scratch.
Here I'm reopening an abandoned terrace down in the back of the orchard where the berry bushes got the upper hand for a while.
shinnlinger
Member
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1
But would you really want to wade your sharp looking Yanmar into the brush with a spiffy new paint job?
But would you really want to wade your sharp looking Yanmar into the brush with a spiffy new paint job?
I went and looked at that moparts thread. The Tremclad (from Rustoleum of Canada, I don't know what it's called here) looks like it's within my capability. The guy who painted the VW and Charger did an awesome job and he said they were $50 jobs.
Mark, you've probably heard of this stuff. For a less-than-novice like me is it a reasonable thing to attempt?
Mark, you've probably heard of this stuff. For a less-than-novice like me is it a reasonable thing to attempt?
Tremclad is Rustoleum.
I’ve visited that site and many others in the past. Although owner’s reviews most certainly report that it’s a much less costly alternative to higher end paints and the application is done by hand, many fail to report that rust bleed-thru is a frequent problem. Using their (Rustoleum) primer is a simple solution to remedy that problem. The paint base vehicle is fish oil and the newer line from the late ‘90’s batches adds homogenized acrylics blended with their fish oil to increase drying times.
As with all paint meticulous preparation is the key. For bare metal exposed from sanding, bead or abrasive blasting, a phosphoric acid (Rust-Mort, POR-15 ect.) based product is needed to insure adhesion. But still, for a person with no equipment to spray paint, this is a cheap alternative with good results. If you’re picky, the paint will need a few weeks for it to completely cure before you can sand, wet sand and machine polish out the brush or roller marks. We’ve done some implements and two trailers with the product and one trailer by hand (with rollers and brushes) turned out very nice…the other two axle trailer was masked and shot and the labor time was more than double…but the results were even better. Nothing like pulling the ‘paper’ and being completely done…while letting the paint cure.
Good stuff…really.