5 acres, 2 horses, no tractor

Archdean

Member
Congratulations but just judging from your picture you might be better off with the next size down box blade! It appears too big to me (relatively speaking) details will help us help you!
 

jbrumberg

Member
Missy & Mike:

Congratulations on your "new" tractor :D! Use it safely and well :). The box blade does look a "little" big, but depending on your soil composition, intended task, and the material you two want to work it could work. Tell us more about your list of projects and we can help you spend eben more money :cool:. Jay :letitsnow:
 
Jeremy,
Dougster's:starbucks: has a self imposed sabbatical from new introductions. I think it is for a month. I really don't remember. He seems to think he was been chasing new folks off.:pat:
hugs, Brandi


"Chasin' the new folks off?" NAW... They don't know enough about him to be avoidin' 'im just yet.

Now there's a possibility he IS running off the OLD members who know him well enough, but that's another issue entirely!:yum: SORRY DOUGSTER I HAD TO DO IT:rolleyes:
 

Missy

Member
Just one question,
icon5.gif
which bedroom are you going to let it have? :rolleyes: And is the closet big enough for all the attachments?:yum: :yum: It's too cute to be left out, even in a shed.

Good luck with it, and I agree with Brandi, it is cute![/quote]


As to whether or not Boomer gets the guest bedroom, that's up to Mike, presently his horse gets it when the temp drops below 50!:yum: :yum:
(He's gonna kill me when he reads this post!!):hide:

He does spoil that horse of his though...
But back to the tractor- it is cute ain't it?
 

Missy

Member
Box Blade

The box blade is the Bush Hog SBX 480B.

We've got flat pastures- sandy, clay soil. We plan on mostly using it to:
Turn up the 6-8" of sand in the round pen and then level it out.
Bring in some soil to fill in some shallow, wet areas in the yard.
AND
:tiphat:
Most importantly- figure out how to best reseed and take care of two pastures. We're hoping to bust up the top inch or so (not deep) of the soil, spread some pre-emergent and fertilizer, seed and the drag it smooth with the blade. Not sure yet if that's the best method, but will research with the lawn and garden shop in town, and ag supply too.

Unless of course you guys have been through the pain already...:pat: and wouldn't mind sharing?

M&M (yeah- we know... with and without...)
 

Archdean

Member
That is the right size blade, the picture gave a different perspective to me Sorry!

Your pasture plan is as good as any and the locals can tell you which seed stock works best in your area better than anyone!!

Good Luck!
 
Most importantly- figure out how to best reseed and take care of two pastures. We're hoping to bust up the top inch or so (not deep) of the soil, spread some pre-emergent and fertilizer, seed and the drag it smooth with the blade. Not sure yet if that's the best method, but will research with the lawn and garden shop in town, and ag supply too.

My $0.02 worth, all for less than $0.02!

BEST WAY TO RE-SEED PASTURES.......

And now, to complete that sentence. (Choose any and all options that fit your conditions)

(1) ....with what equipment I have available
(2) ....with what equipment I can rent/hire
(3) ....and continue to use them
(4) ....in the spring
(5) ....in the fall
(6) ....and Fertilize in the fall or in the spring
(7) ....while correcting soil Ph conditions
(8) ....depending on what species of grass you have and/or choose to grow

1A through 6A are the same, only starting with heavily compacted soil.

1B through 6B, same with severe weed infestation.


I farmed for 36+ years before deciding I needed a break and a real estate developer needed my farm. I ran cows on my pastures, but big ol' hairy animals that eat hay are all the same to grass and dirt. They compact the soil, eat the good grass, leave the weeds, and promote poor soil conditions.

First, and you'll be our eyes in the field on these, do you have a problem with noxious weeds? Has this land been used as pasture in recent years? (If so, likely it's compacted) If you have weed issues, the VERY FIRST thing you want to do is treat them. Spray or granular application weed control is the BEST route. Old school thought was to bury the weeds. (plowing) That takes your pasture out of rotation for AT LEAST a full season until soils stabilize enough to run animals without tracking too much in wet weather. (Not to mention added machine cost/requirements) If compacted, and that is serious enough, soil may benifit from some sort of tillage. Best is to remove land from pasture rotation a few years and let freeze/thaw cycles do the job natures way. Short of that, chisel plow or subsoiling is next best. Again, if you plan on USING the pastures, this isn't a viable option.

Next step is to determine soil nutrient levels. Get a soil test. Does it need lime? N,P, & K? Micro-nutrients? Get your County AG extention agent involved. They'll be more than happy to make localized recomendations based on soil test results. They will USUALLY even go as far as to supply the bags to package soil for lab testing. In my area, a soil test will cost $15 per sample/test. The County AG Dept will also make suggestions about timing of fertilization based on local climate, products needed, and current soil conditions. Soil with incorrect Ph level will not benifit from fertilizers, no matter HOW much you put down. Micro nutrients effect plant growth in much the same way. (Around my area, we USUALLY need a dose of boron every few years to promote healthy plant tissue growth)

Best time to seed for most all grass types is the fall. Spring is OK, but your new grass will go immediately into hot, dry summer with little root growth. Seeding in the spring, grass has all the water it needs short term without rooting deep. Then when summer sets in, it's too late. A few dry months and you're right back where you started. Seed in the fall, and the young grass will root deep and continue to grow until the ground freezes hard. By spring, you have a hardy, healthy young grass plant that's chompin' at the bit to start growing above ground.

If you plan on doing any "dirt work" (ie. leveling, grading, filling) do that BEFORE you seed. Grass seed likes contact with soil and NOT being buried. It germinates best in the top 1/8" to 1/4" of the soil, where sunlight and warmth can do its thing.

I always rented a "no-till seeder". They are available through county AG dept here. What would be commonly used on a farm would PROBABLY be over-kill for your use as well as a little on the big side for your tractor. I'd check with local equipment dealers and better equipment rental shops to see about a "power seeder" or overseeder. They are commonly used to re-seed lawns. Dirt is dirt....grass is grass. A pasture is just a big lawn that you keep horses on. The power seeder will put the seed where it's going to do the best and do that in a very consistant, accurate way. There are dozens of brands of power seeders. (Brillion, Woods, LandPride, Jacobson, ect) 4' and 5' models are common. Your tractor should be able to handle one with little effort. In so many words, you'll get far better results with a power seeder than you could ever hope for by simply throwing seed on the ground and raking it in.

I've seen hundreds of cases where people would pay good money for certified seed, prep and then broadcast the seed on already existing grass, drag a piece of chain link fence or something simular to rake the seed in, and wonder why 3/4ths of their grass didn't germinate. It's just not a sound way to re-hab pastures.

Once you have new growth, you SHOULD hold stock off the young grass for a while. The longer the better. That might not be possible, ESPECIALLY if you do BOTH pastures at once. You might think about doing one this spring and the other in the fall. Or even one this year and the other NEXT year. Let each new stand have a chance to harden off before turning the horseys loose on it.

I can't stress enough the value of your County AG Extention Office/Agent. LIke I mentioned, their advice will be localized, where I'm giving you generalizations and my experience based on my conditions. That's what these people are there for. Use 'em.
 
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jbrumberg

Member
Missy & Mark:

The box blade is a good match for your tractor and will meet its intended tasks. I mis-interpreted the picture's perspective of the tractor/box blade :rolleyes: . Use your "new" tractor and attachments safely and well- Jay :letitsnow:
 

Missy

Member
My $0.02 worth, all for less than $0.02!

BEST WAY TO RE-SEED PASTURES.......

And now, to complete that sentence. (Choose any and all options that fit your conditions)

(1) ....with what equipment I have available
(2) ....with what equipment I can rent/hire
(3) ....and continue to use them
(4) ....in the spring
(5) ....in the fall
(6) ....and Fertilize in the fall or in the spring
(7) ....while correcting soil Ph conditions
(8) ....depending on what species of grass you have and/or choose to grow

1A through 6A are the same, only starting with heavily compacted soil.

1B through 6B, same with severe weed infestation.


I farmed for 36+ years before deciding I needed a break and a real estate developer needed my farm. I ran cows on my pastures, but big ol' hairy animals that eat hay are all the same to grass and dirt. They compact the soil, eat the good grass, leave the weeds, and promote poor soil conditions.

First, and you'll be our eyes in the field on these, do you have a problem with noxious weeds? Has this land been used as pasture in recent years? (If so, likely it's compacted) If you have weed issues, the VERY FIRST thing you want to do is treat them. Spray or granular application weed control is the BEST route. Old school thought was to bury the weeds. (plowing) That takes your pasture out of rotation for AT LEAST a full season until soils stabilize enough to run animals without tracking too much in wet weather. (Not to mention added machine cost/requirements) If compacted, and that is serious enough, soil may benifit from some sort of tillage. Best is to remove land from pasture rotation a few years and let freeze/thaw cycles do the job natures way. Short of that, chisel plow or subsoiling is next best. Again, if you plan on USING the pastures, this isn't a viable option.

Next step is to determine soil nutrient levels. Get a soil test. Does it need lime? N,P, & K? Micro-nutrients? Get your County AG extention agent involved. They'll be more than happy to make localized recomendations based on soil test results. They will USUALLY even go as far as to supply the bags to package soil for lab testing. In my area, a soil test will cost $15 per sample/test. The County AG Dept will also make suggestions about timing of fertilization based on local climate, products needed, and current soil conditions. Soil with incorrect Ph level will not benifit from fertilizers, no matter HOW much you put down. Micro nutrients effect plant growth in much the same way. (Around my area, we USUALLY need a dose of boron every few years to promote healthy plant tissue growth)

Best time to seed for most all grass types is the fall. Spring is OK, but your new grass will go immediately into hot, dry summer with little root growth. Seeding in the spring, grass has all the water it needs short term without rooting deep. Then when summer sets in, it's too late. A few dry months and you're right back where you started. Seed in the fall, and the young grass will root deep and continue to grow until the ground freezes hard. By spring, you have a hardy, healthy young grass plant that's chompin' at the bit to start growing above ground.

If you plan on doing any "dirt work" (ie. leveling, grading, filling) do that BEFORE you seed. Grass seed likes contact with soil and NOT being buried. It germinates best in the top 1/8" to 1/4" of the soil, where sunlight and warmth can do its thing.

I always rented a "no-till seeder". They are available through county AG dept here. What would be commonly used on a farm would PROBABLY be over-kill for your use as well as a little on the big side for your tractor. I'd check with local equipment dealers and better equipment rental shops to see about a "power seeder" or overseeder. They are commonly used to re-seed lawns. Dirt is dirt....grass is grass. A pasture is just a big lawn that you keep horses on. The power seeder will put the seed where it's going to do the best and do that in a very consistant, accurate way. There are dozens of brands of power seeders. (Brillion, Woods, LandPride, Jacobson, ect) 4' and 5' models are common. Your tractor should be able to handle one with little effort. In so many words, you'll get far better results with a power seeder than you could ever hope for by simply throwing seed on the ground and raking it in.

I've seen hundreds of cases where people would pay good money for certified seed, prep and then broadcast the seed on already existing grass, drag a piece of chain link fence or something simular to rake the seed in, and wonder why 3/4ths of their grass didn't germinate. It's just not a sound way to re-hab pastures.

Once you have new growth, you SHOULD hold stock off the young grass for a while. The longer the better. That might not be possible, ESPECIALLY if you do BOTH pastures at once. You might think about doing one this spring and the other in the fall. Or even one this year and the other NEXT year. Let each new stand have a chance to harden off before turning the horseys loose on it.

I can't stress enough the value of your County AG Extention Office/Agent. LIke I mentioned, their advice will be localized, where I'm giving you generalizations and my experience based on my conditions. That's what these people are there for. Use 'em.
Glad to hear the box blade is OK for this tractor... you should see this pulverizer!!

As far as condition of our pastures, Farmwithjunk...
I'd like to do what I can this Spring with a follow-up this Fall. Yes both pastures have some weeds- I sprayed with a broadleaf last year and it did pretty well. Can do that again this year, although wouldn't mind getting down some pre-emergent ASAP if appropriate.

Will do on the soil test. I'll hope to find the Country Ag guy around one of these times.

I can isolate one pasture but not both for several months.

I have a broadcast tow-behind for the ZTR mower.

Will the pulverizer spikes break up the compacted soil enough to assist the seeds in rooting? And I take it I should sow the seeds first, then run the pulverizer over the ground?


Thanks!
Missy
 
Glad to hear the box blade is OK for this tractor... you should see this pulverizer!!

As far as condition of our pastures, Farmwithjunk...
I'd like to do what I can this Spring with a follow-up this Fall. Yes both pastures have some weeds- I sprayed with a broadleaf last year and it did pretty well. Can do that again this year, although wouldn't mind getting down some pre-emergent ASAP if appropriate.

Will do on the soil test. I'll hope to find the Country Ag guy around one of these times.

I can isolate one pasture but not both for several months.

I have a broadcast tow-behind for the ZTR mower.

Will the pulverizer spikes break up the compacted soil enough to assist the seeds in rooting? And I take it I should sow the seeds first, then run the pulverizer over the ground?


Thanks!
Missy

If your ground is really compacted (tight) the problem is deeper than the top inch or two. You can scratch the surface to get a decent seedbed, but a pulverizer won't address the deep compaction issue (if it IS an issue) In the end, grass generally doesn't NEED, nor does it LIKE a deep, loose seedbed. All you really need is for the seed to be in direct contact with dirt. If the ground isn't seriously compacted, you're probably better off by simply working the surface. (confused yet?)

On weed control. Killing weeds in the fall helps....for a while. Killing them early in the spring eliminates that years crop of weed seeds. Not only do you get rid of THIS YEARS weeds, you're well ahead of the game for NEXT YEAR. I treat my pastures and hayfields in mid-to-late march, then again in late may/early june. (determined by weather and species of weeds present)

Seeding BEFORE you run the pulverizer is a "maybe/maybe NOT". All depends on how deep it works the soil. Especially with spring seeding, you don't want the seed too deep. Anything beyond "just barely covered" is too much. Again, all you need (and want) is soil contact. The seed doesn't even really need to be covered.

Soil contact, DIRECT sunlight/warmth, moisture, and soil temps in the high 60's/low 70 degree range (as a minimum)
 

rback33

Member
Sounds like things are coming along. I wonder how long Dougster is going to keep up his charade.... It's kinda quiet with out him. I would rather him do with out starbucks:yum::yum:.

Congrats on the new toy er tool Missy. It is a back saver for sure.
 
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