WOW, I bet it is the Bomb. I never even knew they existed.
Very nice. That would come in very handy for those of us that have to get out of the seat to hook up our implements. Even with Pat's easy change you still have to get out of the seat.
3ph implement hookup
- Thread starter MtnViewRanch
- Start date
WOW, I bet it is the Bomb. I never even knew they existed.
Very nice. That would come in very handy for those of us that have to get out of the seat to hook up our implements. Even with Pat's easy change you still have to get out of the seat.
civesnedfield
Member
WOW, I bet it is the Bomb. I never even knew they existed.
Very nice. That would come in very handy for those of us that have to get out of the seat to hook up our implements. Even with Pat's easy change you still have to get out of the seat.
That is a nice feature. Most of the larger JD's have a switch at the rear of the tractor, and I believe the larger cab model of the Mahindra has one too.
Those Iv seen are just a linkage extended to the back from the main lever. Shouldnt be hard to rig up.WOW, I bet it is the Bomb. I never even knew they existed.
Very nice. That would come in very handy for those of us that have to get out of the seat to hook up our implements. Even with Pat's easy change you still have to get out of the seat.
larry
Hmmm, I had not thought of that. Anyone have pics of their linkage to share?
Holy Moly!We need pictures of that one!
The brand & model of tractor... and implements... should tell a lot.
Dougster
The tractor is a Yanmar 1500D, cat 1 hitch. I don't have any pix handy--maybe tomorrow. It uses stabilizer bars in place of chains to limit sideways movement of the lower arms. This link shows the assembly: http://www.hoyetractor.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=YM15003POINT There does not seem to be enough play to allow the arms to open far enough to clear the implement pins, whether they point outward or are reversed.
My only 3 pt implements are a no-name box blade and a JD rotary cutter.
civesnedfield
Member
Looks like you need to disconnect the stabilizer bars (part #30) to get the lift arms to widen out.
Stupid question... so I'll apologize in advance... but could that be a Cat 0 hitch that's been "upgraded" to handle Cat 1 pins?
Dougster
Is it intended that the slot in Part No. 30 slide on the bolt/post on Part No. 28? Or must that be tightened? Is the solution as simple as welding & cutting longer slots in Part No. 30???
Dougster
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It slides. I figure that lengthening the slot would then allow the arm to travel too far in use.
I think I should see if I can free up the threads on the bolt. 25 to 30 years of rust might take some doing. The bolt is apparently not removable.
Maybe that quick attach gadget California suggested is the best solution.
I think I should see if I can free up the threads on the bolt. 25 to 30 years of rust might take some doing. The bolt is apparently not removable.
Maybe that quick attach gadget California suggested is the best solution.
First measure the width of your implements at the lower pins to verify they will fit the QH. My QH met its stated dimensions exactly but I've read that some of the early ones varied so measure the one at the store too, to verify it meets spec. (This is Harbor Freight, after all.
)Your JD mower should have the correct top attachment point. It's pretty simple to put a bolt through a different hole on the box blade's top link if it isn't standard height. Once you get both implements identical you don't need to get off the tractor for anything - well aside from the mower's driveline. I like my Quick Hitch.
Today's HF mailer (through 12/26) lists it at $70. There is a 15% off coupon on the back page, so actual cost = $59.50.
Here are pix of a rear forks assembly I made. This illustrates the Quick Hitch.
MtnViewRanch
Member
Archdean
Member
I looked at your diagram and I would suggest that if you need more width I would shorten bushing #31 and even move it to the other side of #30 if need be and yes, although cumbersome the bolt (slot is loosened for hookup and tightened once the implement is centered on the 3 point) that will prevent it swinging from side to side!
Thanks for the comments. I'll have to look carefully at the tractor. Shortening #31 would require lengthening #32 in order to keep things reasonable tight. I'm not sure the angles on the lower arm (#28) and the stabilizer bar (#30) would work if the bushings were altered too much.
I'm not sure the bolt and nut are normally tightened. When I got the tractor there was enough play for the two parts to slide. I assumed that was normal operation.
California--thanks for the info. I think there is a HF in Phoenix. I will try to stop in the next time I am down there. I usually try to avoid that area between Thanksgiving and New Years. The crowds and traffic create claustrophobia.
Archdean
Member
You are overreaching the problem!
A sway bar by design does not mean it is to sway when working, rather just the opposite, it is there to center or offset the implement on the 3 point and then secured in a solid manner, some manufactures use turnbuckles and or a combination of chains /links/hydraulics/etc but all will be tight prior to working the implement (unless of course you intend to break your 3 point hitch!!
Shortening the bushings #31 will allow the arms to swing wider for hook up (your problem) and that will have NOTHING to do with #32 (it stays the same, do not alter) what makes the setup solid to your tractor is the finial tightening of # 35 NUT (bolt/slot) once you have your implement positioned as you want it THAT PREVENTS SWAY!!
A sway bar by design does not mean it is to sway when working, rather just the opposite, it is there to center or offset the implement on the 3 point and then secured in a solid manner, some manufactures use turnbuckles and or a combination of chains /links/hydraulics/etc but all will be tight prior to working the implement (unless of course you intend to break your 3 point hitch!!
Shortening the bushings #31 will allow the arms to swing wider for hook up (your problem) and that will have NOTHING to do with #32 (it stays the same, do not alter) what makes the setup solid to your tractor is the finial tightening of # 35 NUT (bolt/slot) once you have your implement positioned as you want it THAT PREVENTS SWAY!!
Ok, Dean. I hear what you say. I am going back to square one, clean up the rust on the bolts and nuts and determine the magnitude of the problem. It might be that with everything cleaned up things will work better. I have been changing implements without moving the nuts.
Thanks for the help.
Thanks for the help.