V4210 complete cabs only $1200

avantiguy

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Here's what's in the box V4210

If you are worried about hurting the parts inside, don't worry. I've never seen anything this well packed.

Secondly, I think 300# may be a bit on the low side. There are only really four parts not counting the rear window (Plastic) a couple of steel stampings, pieces of insulation and a box of parts w/instructions.

The only thing I didn't find is the faceplate for the radio but I'll bet it turns up.

Each major piece is very heavy. I'll use my engine hoist and chainfall but I'd bet it would take three folks to pickup and attach each part.

Enjoy

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Bob
 

Wild Bill

Member
More! More! More!
Thursday can't come soon enough...

Question for you Bob, did you have to pay tax or a duty on it when entering the US with it?
 

avantiguy

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More! More! More!
Thursday can't come soon enough...

Question for you Bob, did you have to pay tax or a duty on it when entering the US with it?

Bill

The simple answer is no I wasn't charged at the US border. But that surprised me because everything I read prior to the trip suggested 5-10% duty on goods over $200.

The border officer asked me what I did in Canada, when I told him I bought the Cab he asked "Why Canada, was the price that good?" I said the tractor I had was an older model and it is difficult to find parts for it. I said the Company was closing out these caps at a very reasonable price. He was surprised I found a good deal in Canada and asked where I bought the cab and "Did I pay VAT?" I said that I paid VAT and that was one reason I was so happy to back in the good ol' US of A. He laughed and I handed him my invoice and said that would give all the info on where/what I bought and the price and tax.

He hardly looked at it, went back and checked my car and trailer plate spent about a minute keying them into the system, smiled, handed me my passport back and wished me a great day. I didn't ask about duty.

So my guess is it's an individual call or may be paying the VAT had some effect. In any case, I saw no reason to ask.

Bob
 

avantiguy

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One more thought. I wasn't sure how to get to the parts and I had left the box on my trailer as it was darn bulky to get off.

I got lucky by starting at the stapled end and undoing the staples down the joint. I then cut the top and bottom with a razor knife and swung it open like a door. That let me see the parts inside through a crack between the side and the back. I decided to start to cut along the top of the wide side and as I cut the parts all started to press on the cardboard and it began to move. I thought I'd just pull them out and that's how I found out how heavy they all were. So I continue to cut along the top and other end while pushing on the side to keep it up. That let the side fold down against the trailer upper rail with the parts supported on it as I lower the side. I then went to the other side of the box, opened a couple of holes at each end and threaded a rope through them. This let me push everything back in place except the top which was the closest to the open side. I then pushed everything upright and kept them up by tying the rope to the trailer rail on the far side. Removed the top and let the next piece rest on the cardboard side and retied the rope to hold the rest. Got everything out unscratched but sure was glad I just didn't cut a side open and let everything fall over and hit the trailer rail.

Two people would be better but I'm 72 and a little short on friends without bad backs or heart trouble.

Bob
 

Wild Bill

Member
Went up yesterday and got mine. Great experience. No Issues. I called my credit card company from my home number before I left to let them know what I was up to.
Left around 8:00 in the morning, got back around 5:00 in the evening.
Worked until about midnight putting it together. It is a nice kit for sure. Not quite done yet. Still need to do the electrical, install work lights, secure the roof, and install the heater. Here are some pics of the process.



Here is how it sat Wednesday night


Here is how it sat Thursday morning before the trip


You have to take the seat and the tub out in order to insulate


The insulation of the heat, Note the screwdriver to locate the holes. I had to trim the rabbit and the square so that it would stick to the rubber and allow access to the radiator.


Taking out the floor mat and sealing around the floor plate. Not I did not follow the instructions on the floor mat. I re-installed the plate, then installed the new insulated floor mat over top of it. I left the old floor mat loose and will place it on top of the insulated floor mat. We will see how that works...


Doors and windshield on. Having an extra set of hands to mount the doors is pretty much necessary.


windshield and doors open


Door in the process of opening


Mounting of the turn signal. Drilled with a 3/8" bit and hogged out a little. A 10mm bit would be perfect.


The dash / inside of the windshield


Inside of the door


The roof and headliner. We had to re-attach the insulation to the headliner using contact cement.


With the roof set on there. I'm not sure if I can get this beast out of my garage if I mount the roof. But that was about midnight and I was ready for bed...
 
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D&D Farm

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THANKS so much Mr. Wild Bill for the information. Scratchin my head as to a couple of questions.

Will it fit an 05???

Do the doors come off easily so that in the summer one can run without them??

It comes with a new windshield and top??

Can one use the old top and windshield and have the new ones for spares or save the old ones for spares???.......maybe sell them???

THANKSSSSSSSSS>.............God bless.....Dennis
 

bczoom

Senior Member
Staff member
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I'm not sure if I can get this beast out of my garage if I mount the roof. But that was about midnight and I was ready for bed...
For those of you with cabs, do they fit under a standard garage door or do you need an 8' door?
 

Kanook

Active member
Avantiguy and Wildbill.....
Thanks for your posts and pics...You got me all jealous now. If I didn't already have the older Curtis Cab on my RTV...the one with 'suicide doors'....I'd be headin' down the road with cash in hand to pick one of those beauties up....looks like a super good deal at that price.
 

Wild Bill

Member
THANKS so much Mr. Wild Bill for the information. Scratchin my head as to a couple of questions.

Will it fit an 05???

Do the doors come off easily so that in the summer one can run without them??

It comes with a new windshield and top??

Can one use the old top and windshield and have the new ones for spares or save the old ones for spares???.......maybe sell them???

THANKSSSSSSSSS>.............God bless.....Dennis

The literature says 2013 and older RTV 900s. I have a '11 900XT

I have not looked at taking the doors off so I'm not sure. You can however latch the doors in place while open. It is intended to be driven with them open.

I imagine that this cab uses a different windshield than what you have. Not sure about the roof. This is the only cab that I have seen where the windshield, when closed, is about 8" down the hood. It does not sit flush to the ROPS.
 

avantiguy

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Thanks Bill, Very well done and documented.

I started to install mine yesterday afternoon and Boy!! am I slower than you. I opted not to install the insulation currently. I'll get it later if i need it.

How did the border crossing go, both time and tax?

It looks like it will fit my 04 with no problems so the claim of fitting 04-13 should be accurate.

Well done, Bob
 

Keifer

Senior Member
Gold Site Supporter
Congrats on getting the new tops/doors/winshield/back window, etc. kits.

I'm sure I wasn't the only person in here that was more than a little skeptical about the offer. My apology. However, from the original posting, there wasn't a lot of information to persuade a perspective buyer to hitch up a trailer and take a sizeable chunk of cash across our Northern border.

So glad it has worked out for those that looked into the offer and then made the journey to pick up your units. The descriptions and photos are positive proof that you are going to have a comfortable cab to travel in this winter.

PS: The photos and assembly narratives are interesting even to those of us who aren't wrestling with those kits. Good luck as y'all put on the finishing touches.
 

milkman

Member
Thanks for the pics Wild Bill, and I really like the way the doors open. Wonder if they could remain open for summer, without taking them off?
 

Wild Bill

Member
You're welcome for the pics. I wanted to let you guys see what was involved in installing the cab . Pictures are worth 1000's of words and there were none to be had for this model cab in all of the internet.

How did the border crossing go, both time and tax?
No problems at all. I just told them where I was going and why. They did not charge me duty either when I crossed back into the states. lucky!

I'm sure I wasn't the only person in here that was more than a little skeptical about the offer. My apology. However, from the original posting, there wasn't a lot of information to persuade a perspective buyer to hitch up a trailer and take a sizable chunk of cash across our Northern border.
You were not. I saw the post and disregarded it. Wasn't till I saw Bob's posts on Monday that I gave it credence. So I lined everything up the very next day.
 

Art454

Member
For those of you with cabs, do they fit under a standard garage door or do you need an 8' door?

My 1100 just makes it in a 7 foot door with stock ATV tries that came with the unit.....if you have higher tires or rims I think a 7 foot door you be in trouble.
 

Wild Bill

Member
So I finally got everything finished up last night with exception of the auxiliary lights. (I have a pair of 18w LED floods on the way for the back and I have a 126w combo spot/flood lightbar coming for the front)



I was more than a little concerned about the height of the machine with the cab on there so I moved the antenna to the back of the roof. I now have 2-1/2” of clearance between the roof and the garage door.



As mentioned in another thread I mounted my Bad Dawg mirrors by drilling and tapping the metal in front of the doors. I mounted them up there so that I can use them with the dorrs open or closed. Only issue is that the line of sight to them runs between the door frame and the roll bar. Not a lot of room. That and I am getting a reflection at night right now but I’m hoping that my rear work lights will solve that problem.



Running all the lines for the heater was fun… Didn’t get much heat out of it on the maiden voyage last night so it looks like I will have to do some searching for heater threads or maybe start my own. I am also looking to move the top vent from the cup holder to the front of the dash so it will be directed across the windshield better.


I used reflectix insulation to close off most of the air gaps under the dash. I got a used heater that did not include any plumbing fittings or the insulation.


I ran a wire from the headlight switch and the hazard switch from the dash up to the overhead console. When the headlights are switched on a small red LED light between the air vents turns on to illuminate the dash. I will use the hazard wire to power amber strobes if I choose to install some.
On the main switch panel I moved the dome lights over to the strobe light switch. This leaves Aux 1 and Aux 2 open for my forward and reverse work lights.


One thing of interest is that the wiper contacts the roof when the window is opened. A bit strange...
 

Wild Bill

Member
Things to be aware of:
The dump bed should probably have its front handles removed (if you have hydraulic dump). It looks like the handles will rip the doors off if you have them open and decide to dump the bed.

I am also a bit concerned about the front stake pockets and whether or not my bed rails will hit the rear window. Will keep you updated.
 

avantiguy

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Things to be aware of:
The dump bed should probably have its front handles removed (if you have hydraulic dump). It looks like the handles will rip the doors off if you have them open and decide to dump the bed.

I am also a bit concerned about the front stake pockets and whether or not my bed rails will hit the rear window. Will keep you updated.

Bill

Well documented. I'll add a couple pictures and thoughts to aid in future installations.

My help currently amounts to my friends which either have bad hearts or backs and my son (in Texas) and SIL (teaching and coaching) so most of what I do is just me. I needed to lift the heavy parts and have a couple of chainfalls and HF electric chain lift. I chose to use the HF one so here are a couple of shots of the rigging.

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This is it on an 04

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I did locate my neighbors SIL to help with the windshield. Just to pricey to let hang around on a rope.

My older machine 2004 either is a bit out of whack or the assembly was just off as the drivers side went in great but the passengers side was just about 1/16" off so a bit of fiddling was in order, But all in all it went pretty well.

One thing I found after I had the parts laid out was the glass in the passengers was about 1/2 out of the frame. I pulled it completely out and reinstalled it. If someone in the future has the same issue PM me and I'll give you a few tricks on the installation. Luckily I've put a few windshields in older car eventhough this install is somewhat different.

I removed the antenna also and will install it on a bracket lower on the Bota.

I opted not to add a heater but have this on order for heat. One thing I like about the controls is the top has a blower that blows air directly on the windshield for defogging.

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My bed handles don't extend past the bed sides so the newer models may differ.

All-in-all I like the cab design, The ability to run with the doors open is a real plus on the design.

Again, thanks to Mike SVG for finding this deal and Bill for the excellent documentation in the thread.

Bob
 

bczoom

Senior Member
Staff member
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For that propane tank/heater, if you haven't already found:
1. Midway up the tank is a rib (in the pic below, just at the bottom of the sticker). Take some electric tape and run it around the tank over that rib about 3 times.
2. Remove the rubber insert from your cup holder.
3. Slide the tank in the cup holder. It'll stop right at that taped over rib and stick in there nicely.

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