Starting problem on BX2350

Art454

Member
This one has me stumped.

I have a intermitted starting problem since this last summer.

When its not been run always starts.

Now you go mow grass about 1 or 2 hours shut it off sometimes it will not start...which I mean nothing turns on.

I have bypassed all the safety crap and it still does it sometimes.

You can let it sit maybe 2 or 5 minutes than it starts no problem.

It never over heats either.

Just acts like a dead battery.

All I can think is the ing. switch must be going bad?

Anybody else had this problem before I go buy a new switch?

Other than that maybe a wierd battery problem which I have only seen once before in my 60 years.

The postive battery post seems to leak a little and I clean it then apply red battery spray.

Still does it though...so I would think its either the battery or ing. switch.

Unit is 4 years old so I would go for a new battery before ign. switch because it will need a new battery sooner than later.

If that dont solve the problem all I can think is ign. switch.

What you all think?

Art
 

rj's barn

Member
I've seen starters and solenoids that after a few years of getting warm next to a screaming hot engine will get a little weak when they get warm. Let em cool off and they'll crank over fine. I might pick on the starter itself or the solenoid if it's mounted on the starter.
 

Doc

Admin
Staff member
Gold Site Supporter
Intermitent problems are the worst. I doubt it is the switch since it is intermitent, but like you, I have to wonder what it could be. RJ's idea sounds worth looking into.
I suppose it could be the battery but I doubt that. My tractor is an 02 model and it still has the original battery.
Once figured out please share the solution with us.
 

Art454

Member
I think it is the battery cause once I moved the postive battery cable next to the battery even though it was not loose and it started right up.
I did a google search on it and I think inside the battery on the postive post is were the problem is at.
When it wont start I mean everything is dead even the headlights and dash on the run postion.
No 4 way flashers even.
I'll replace the battery first as this is mostly like the problem.

Thanks all and I'll let you no what I find this spring.

Art
 

muleman RIP

Gone But Not Forgotten
Gold Site Supporter
Before you spring for a battery I would check the ground connection where the cable terminates. Also look at engine ground strap. Take them apart and clean to bare metal. Did that on my John Deere last year and it cranks over better than it has since I owned it.
 

Art454

Member
I been through the whole machine wireing system several times.

In a case like this u start to replace parts.

Since everything is dead when it happens only makes sense to start with battery.

This fall my 95 van started to act up tune it up worked better for a bit then back to the same thing.

No check engine light on....had a friend that works at a chevy dealership scan it with dealership scan tool which only dealers can get.

He could not find the problem with the scan tool either.

We ran a noid light on each injector....only 2 since its throttle body injection.

One noid light was much brighter than the other.

He said Art its time to start replacing parts as only way to find it.

He been at it for 35 years he said he start with the computer which was 500 dollars.

Put new on ran better than new when I bought it and I only have 22,000 miles on it.

I thought it was the injector myself.

I talked to him about my tractor to. Since everything is dead when it happens.....he also thinks the battery is first then to replace.

He hates his job today as alot is just trying to replace parts since scanner does not fix the problem it says it is.

Why today you about have to take it back to a dealership to get it fixed....they can r and r parts and get away with it.

We go to auto parts on most electrical parts you install it does not fix it you own it.

On new cars..... scanner no good anymore....they hook into the test outlet and it sends info to the factory and they tell them what to replace.

DIY for check engine light are chit out of luck on this new stuff today.

Art
 

Doc

Admin
Staff member
Gold Site Supporter
DIY for check engine light are chit out of luck on this new stuff today.

Art

Boy that's for sure.

Like Muley I've seen bad ground cause a similar problem on a boat. But if you'lve already checked that, yep start with a new battery.

To extend battery life you might consider a battery tender. They trickle charge the battery and keep it fully charged without overcharging. My generator battery went dead and I put a battery tender on it and all is good. I should have had one on there all along, I had it sitting on my work bench doing nothing. Might as well keep it working.

I have the Jr. and the full size one. I give them both high recommendations.
http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&ke...&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&ref=pd_sl_2sc3ptjn_e
 

Art454

Member
Boy that's for sure.

Like Muley I've seen bad ground cause a similar problem on a boat. But if you'lve already checked that, yep start with a new battery.

To extend battery life you might consider a battery tender. They trickle charge the battery and keep it fully charged without overcharging. My generator battery went dead and I put a battery tender on it and all is good. I should have had one on there all along, I had it sitting on my work bench doing nothing. Might as well keep it working.

I have the Jr. and the full size one. I give them both high recommendations.
http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&ke...&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&ref=pd_sl_2sc3ptjn_e

Yep I have like 7 battery tenders.
For the heck of it I added another ground strap last summer from the engine back to battery ground orignal place to the tractor. So there is two now never made a difference.
I seen this when I draged race 10 years ago when other people had a high end rpm miss....told them to add a ground strap from engine back to frame...problem solved.
One guy gave me 100 dollars cause he spend over 2000 dollars in replacement parts and still did not solve his problem.
I think the Kubota battery is a AGM type...so leaking at that postive post you can not add watter.
I may before I get a new one cut it apart by the postive termanal just to see whats up.....junk anyway.
 

bczoom

Senior Member
Staff member
Gold Site Supporter
When I get intermittent problems where I have power one time and no power another, on my tractor, it's always related to the main battery cable being corroded at the battery terminal (where the cable and terminal connect, not cable terminal to battery). I use a jumper box and bypass the cable and then everything works perfectly.
 

Art454

Member
Update.....took the battery to batter wholesale they said it was good...I told them what the problem was they said no way they ever herd of such a problem.
I told them I wanted a new battery anyway since it was 5 years old and they did say it was leaking at the positive post as I said earlier in my post.
They said a new battery would not solve the problem.
I said I want a new battery and am the buyer not you.
I told them the real test of a battery is if it does its job or not....told him to look it up on the internet. He said I been selling batterys for 20 years and no my stuff. I said I been buying batterys over 45 years and seen them go bad when its warm outside more then cold in the last 20 years.
So I got my new battery and since no problems.
So much for battery wholesale and battery breath and called him and told him after 3 weeks of use no problem. He said it was probably just a bad battery connection.....ya I said no chit like the positive post inside the battery.
Next time I'll run a battery down to nothing so they can't test it dead and just buy one without the problem.
While I was in there 5 people came in said there battery was bad and tested ok and they left.
I also bought a small battery for my mtd that would barely would crank the motor over but not start it.....that one tested ok to...that battery was 8 years old....brought new one home with the bota battery and installed it and the mtd cranked over like crazy and started right up.
When I was there I told him your tester is broken and he said it was good.
I have my own battery tester and they both showed bad imo.
In any event when I want a new battery I want a new one without the hassel.....so from now on I'll bring them in dead.
I like there batterys and there prices just hate the sale person.
You can charged a battery and when its fully charged it will show ok....wait a week and its dead.....that's a bad battery imo.
 

Donbee

New member
BX2350 won't start

I had a similar problem with my BX2350. Ran fine when I parked in the fall. Tried to start it in the spring and it was totally dead- no lights, Nothing. I put the charger on the battery and it said everything hunky dory (smart charger). Still nothing. I pulled the battery and had it load tested and it checked good. I did the same thing you did. I went through all the safety switches and ignition switch. Then I got the strange notion to bypass the ground cable from the negative side of the battery to the frame and WALLAH! Everything started working. I traced it down to the connection to the frame ground lug was loose. I also found the ground connection from the starter to the frame was missing the bolt that grounded it . I am not sure how this thing ran for the first year that I had it.
 

SpudHauler

Active member
Site Supporter
That is easy to check Gilles.

Put a voltmeter on the battery terminals and rev up the engine to full rpm.

Voltage should never go beyond 14.5 volts DC.

Anything less than 13.5 volts DC at full rpm indicates a problem in the charging system.
.
 
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