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Old 08-05-2013, 06:37 AM
bczoom bczoom is offline
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bczoom is just really nicebczoom is just really nicebczoom is just really nicebczoom is just really nice

What do y'all think fellow NTT members. Did it really happen if he didn't provide pictures?

Kidding aside, sounds like you've got exactly what you need for the road grading. Sure would like pictures though...
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Old 08-05-2013, 08:02 PM
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urednecku urednecku is offline
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Originally Posted by bczoom View Post
What do y'all think fellow NTT members. Did it really happen if he didn't provide pictures?

Naw, sounds like he's just havin' a daydream..........

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Old 04-23-2014, 04:44 PM
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Default Updated, but still no pictures.

I've now fully re-worked my road for the 3rd time since purchasing the tractor.

It has proven to last much longer than I expected between maintenance grading.

I bought a box blade on CraigsList in the fall and was very happy with it this Spring.

First time the road was thawed out in very early spring I regraded my parking area with great success. It worked so well I went out to remove the ruts in the driveway and created a mess that took weeks to dry out enough to fix. Lesson learned, only drain the road until it's dry.

Once it was dry enough to actually work the driveway. I played with the box blade enough to appreciate it's ability to move material. It made it easy to crown the road and move material to the lower areas. When moving material the grading scraper had always seemed to loose material over the blades and leave clumps behind. I was able to improve some of the elevation transitions on the driveway.

After one session I did some more online searching and found that a box blade can also pack material similar to back dragging with the FEL. They said having the front of the box blade an inch lower than the back made it cut deeper than when level, and that raising the front higher than the back caused the back edge to "back drag" and pack. My experiments showed that to work.

Next I decided that if it was going to break something the cheaper box blade was more sacrificial. So I attacked the very hard packed potholes by shortening the top link enough to sink the scarifiers about 3" before the blade made contact. Everything survived except the potholes. I pulled up a lot of rock. One basket ball sized rock leaped from the ground with ease, while a cluster of softball sized rocks bounced the box blade for many trips. After ripping up large sections of road I extended the top link to nearly flat and spent more trips working on a decent crown and filling low areas.

The next day I returned for many passes with the grading scraper. I found the scraper to cleaned up the ripples left by the box blade jittering over the surface. Another revelation was that shortening the top link enough to hover the rear blade caused the front blade to carry more material, and the second blade to trim short anything that escape the first blade. So the combination of these two similar tools seems ideal, but either one would suffice.

About the pictures. Turns out that I found a set of pictures I took last fall of the road AFTER I fixed it. I'll take another set shortly and finally post some pictures.

I am waiting on 80 yards of gravel to fill in the low areas and increase the crown. It is already good, and soon to be amazingly good.

Thanks again for the help!
Kioti DK40se cab: BEFCO 72" Grading Scraper, AgroTrend 72" snowblower, 72" box blade, CountyLine Sub-soiler
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