2005 RTV with NO 2WD

Hi there! New here and to rtv 900 ownership. Any help is much appreciated. I'm not really sure where to start. I picked up this used one with 1000 hrs on it. Looked like it was in good shape. I've had it for a week or so now and seems like I've broke it already. I haven't really worked it to hard or really tinkered on it except for checking fluids, etc. The other day while picking up fire wood I noticed it lagging on hills and a loss of speed. Started to look into it more and noticed the rear wheels not moving. switched it out of 4x4 and it wont budge in 2wd. Revs up, sounds fine, but no movement. If I pull up the emergency brake when in 2wd it will move, but the brakes on? Seems like when in 4wd, only the front wheels work and its very lagging. Any ideas where to start? A good place to get a book, as it came with nothing. Again any ideas would be much appreciated. thanks
Bryan

While going up that hill what gear were you in. Of course going up a hill, the speed is going to go down, one HUGE trick when this happens is to put the accelerator pedal to the floor and then back off just a bit.

When you do this you should hear the engine pick up RPM a bit and truly sound like it is working harder.

Again, what gear are you trying to do this in. When starting out from a stop you will find that if in too high of a gear NOTHING does happen when looking at the wheels. Especially if trying to start on an incline. For me, and I live on a LOT of hilly terrain, I pretty much try to begin moving on a flat in H or in L or M if on an incline. If it sits there doing nothing as I apply power, I back off the throttle and shift down.

I do not understand what you are saying about the parking brake and what happens. Perhaps a bit more detail.

When in 4WD the front wheels are working and the rear has a limited slip differential. If you want all wheels to dig in, use your right heel and depress the pedal there to lock the differential........

Oh........WELCOME Aboard.........You will find folks here totally helpful and NOT rude or short tempered. Anyway, ask away.............. God bless.......Dennis

thanks.. It was working fine on all my terrain with no issues, until.. ? lag all of a sudden. It seemed like only the front wheels were spinning. Hit differential lock and still seems like all spin. Problem was. when I shifted it into 2wd. nothing.. Won't budge unless either put back in 4wd or emergency brake pulled up? So, basically no 2wd. When shifting the 2wd/4wd it feels loose and not hard like prior? I do see that the cable moves the linkage. But I wonder if far enough. Maybe just out of adjustment. No book. But searching all forums to see if anyone has had a 2wd problem.

Atomburst, I just sent you a private message.

zzz thanks a bunch.. I did do some more digging and did find when removing the nut cover on the rear axle crazy rust and a disconnected axle, hub or something. Move the wheel and within the bumper assembly nothing travels back to trans.. Sounds like in the boot or hub. I didn't really dig in to much but seems to me that either the axle broke or the hub and spline ends are bad. I'll dig in tomorrow and report back..
thanks again

Atom, welcome to the forum. It sounds like your rear ujoints are out. I had to replace mine on my '05 Check out the thread "rear ujoints needed again" It has a lot of members participating. I'll try and bump it. It is a do it yourself job if you are handy even a bit. bordercollie

edit: http://www.nettractortalk.com/forums/showthread.php?p=104185#post104185

Welcome to the Site :



.......... two guns

thanks everyone for all your help.. Jumping in now. Justed sprayed every thing. I can't believe how rusty it is under the rubber cap. Surprised to think that u joints fail like that? I've never seen them disconnect completely, but I'm not in there yet. Will mark everything and you will probably hear me complaining.

Hopefully someone can chime in before i go to far, but where do you mark the splines or do you just mark each joint? Seems like you'd have to cut the boot off to mark the splines? I was thinking I could do just the side that broke.. Hub off, not that. Seems like its broken where the axel connects in the boot. Any ideas before I rammer jam it...
thanks

so.. bad propeller shaft. Barely any thing left in there. Looks like someone else was in there already as I think each u joint has an added grease fitting. I don't think they come standard as one doesn't have one. Anyone seen anything like this. Cause for alarm? Calling the stealership to see if I can get a new shaft..

There are 2 joints on each side. One is up in that metal covering by the wheel and the other one is visible.That thread I started with the link below should give you a bit of help.Yes, the stealership will sell you the whole ujoint assembly, but take your bp medicine first. You may can just get the joints if the rest is in good shape... When you start removing the "bumper", you will see that the splines on the shaft have a space. It will just need to be in the same position on the new one when you replace it. Just take pictures and use a good marker. Mark where they slip out and anywhere else for reference points . Then position the new ones or repaired ones the same. Did you get the pm with the link to the manual on how to do this? The first time I sent it, I didn't copy the entire link. If it still doesn't work, let me know. bordercollie

edit: You will have to take off the bumper to do the repairs/replacement. This will mean both sides will be there exposed, so with that many hrs, you may want to consider taking a hard look at the other side .I am thinking it is probably shot too.. Like in the thread on ujoints I started, I replaced everything while I had them handy. You can see how rusty and hard to get off mine were...

so.. bad propeller shaft. Barely any thing left in there. Looks like someone else was in there already as I think each u joint has an added grease fitting. I don't think they come standard as one doesn't have one. Anyone seen anything like this. Cause for alarm? Calling the stealership to see if I can get a new shaft..

yes.. got it thanks. Don't see any issues with the u joints. just the splines them selves. Probably going to be hard to line them up as they will have t be all new. I did see a thread on here about lining up the u joints and hopefully that will help. took the bp meds this morning as i new wasn't goin to be any good news here. 350+ for the shaft and many days... awesome!

thanks again

I'm sorry to hear that Atom. Sometimes, I have seen them cheaper on ebay and they look to be oem ... -- good luck.. bordercollie

any ideas on how to get the axle out of the transmission? I took the 3 bolts out and no movement?

Atomburst said:

any ideas on how to get the axle out of the transmission? I took the 3 bolts out and no movement?

Click to expand...

Atom, the sealant (RTV type for gasket making) may have it's grip on it. Some folks take a thin putty knife etc and gently work around to loosen it. Then pull straight out. That aluminum is tricky so take your time. If you haven't drained your transmission or changed your filters, this repair you are doing and once finished, will be a good time because you are going to lose some fluid.

Done! All back together and it works so far. Tomorrow morning for the final tests and it'll be back to work! Not to bad of job. Not the best engineering I've seen. My Kubota tractor seems like it was thought out much more user friendly. I think it's 30 years old or so but simple.. Didn't remove the bed, but did hit my head to many times to count. Total came to around 500.. The propeller shaft with all u joints (grease fittings an all) is now a kit, 330 total. A couple internet jokesters tried to sell them separate for double but local dealer here was the best price I could find with quick results. Even had it in stock. The hub was half that and the splines were barely there on it. I thought to bite the bullet now rather than do this again soon. Worst part was putting the bumper back on as sliding in the axles.. 2 person job. Pretty easy with good prep ( jack modification from one of the threads).. Only thing I should have done was drill a hole in the bumper to get at the fittings on the wheel side u-joint. thought I'd revisit in the future. Sure! If considering the 1000 the dealer wanted to do it with 4-5 day wait. I'd say jump in!
Thanks for all your help on here... Made it a breeze with all the tips!

Good Feeling isn't it !!. I know what you mean about accessing the grease fittings. I had mentioned it in that other thread on" new ujoints needed again", , but it is easy to overlook there near the end. So it cost about 500 for both sides or just the one? Did you replace the bearings and seals also? Have a great evening. bordercollie