Mark.Sibole
Well-known member
Your electrical boxes may be hanging out with the box of boxes i misplaced lol its a box party!
I have the lids and covers but no boxes lol.
I have the lids and covers but no boxes lol.
New Rear U Joints Needed-- Again
- Thread starter bordercollie
- Start date
Nope. You put them away in a place where you would be sure to find them.
I do that all the time, and then forget where that place was. This gets worse as you get older. A lot worse.Fitch (trying to remember what gets worse)
After I've hunted for a missing item for several hours, I'll finally just give up in disgust. Then when I run across it a year or two later, I'll wonder why I was looking for it in the first place. Then, to be sure I'll find it again later when I finally remember why I needed it, I'll put it away in a safe place - - where it will never be seen again!
I hear that. There is also another dimension in my shop. There are several entrances to it. One entrance to it is right behind the buffing wheel. When the wheel grabs something and flings it into that other dimension, or it slips out of my grip and squirts off toward the biggest available pile of junk, it makes a sound just like it hit the floor. It didn't. It's gone forever unless the inhabitants of that other dimension decide to return it. If they do, they will put it someplace it could never have gotten to on it's own to be discovered after I've completely forgotten about it.
When I moved my shop from California to Pennsylvania I found things I'd not seen for almost a decade. One of them was under the milling machine. I've no idea how it got there.
Along with that I've discovered a couple of truths:
First: Electrical equipment runs on smoke. When it breaks and the smoke escapes, there is no way to put it back, and the part, or the whole thing, must be replaced with parts that have factory installed smoke - then it will work again.
Second: Mechanical stuff runs on noise. If the noise seal breaks and the noise escapes, the thing will get quiet. When it gets quiet, it's broken. There is no practical way to put the noise back. One must get new parts with factory packaged noise and install them for the mechanism to work again.
Fitch
Kubota900fan
New member
Thank you everybody on here, with your help i.v got the shafts out now just for the bearings, and cleaning and putting it back together
Bob
I am glad it is coming together for you . I think I may have to do this project again in the not to distant future. Did you use the oem Kubota parts or something else? collie
Kubota900fan
New member
no Collie we lucky enough getting the original kubota parts here, a bid expensive but i rather use them, i might have not seen your post but how do you get the inner driveshaft out off the gearbox?
Kubota900fan
New member
Hi Kubota fan, After you remove the bolts, it is just held on with an sealant. A gentle putty knife should free it up. Haha ,yea, it's ok in reply to post #170 . I have had that kind of day today too !!
Anyways, That sealant sticks pretty good just be careful around that aluminum and take your time. collie
I have had that kind of day today too !! Anyways, That sealant sticks pretty good just be careful around that aluminum and take your time. collie
I forgot to ask, did you just buy Kubota joints or the whole assembly ( Unfortunately, it is my turn again now) collie
OrangeBuggy
Active member
OrangeBuggy
Active member
That just plain sucks collie, anyway the best to you.
Thank you Orange Buggy.... I agree with you, it sure does.. It is always something on my heels but.. the Good Lord watched over me again today.. I was tired after we tested our registered bulls most all day and was backing up the loaded skid steer fast.. trying to get the feed wagon loaded before the rain started again....I forgot the b-i-l's new 2door tractor and feed wagon was behind me and not on the side (depending on the wind of the day) .. then remembered and stopped a micro second from crashing into the side door on the tractor. Those extended reach "arms" on the skid steer stick out and all I can say is man,.. it was close... I've been giving thanks all evening for that miracle ..
I will definitely do all 4 joints when I take it apart, as I did on the '05 that started this thread.. It's only a matter of if the oem joints themselves are available , I'll use them- most likely. I may consider aftermarket joints if the match is really good . collie
I will definitely do all 4 joints when I take it apart, as I did on the '05 that started this thread.. It's only a matter of if the oem joints themselves are available , I'll use them- most likely. I may consider aftermarket joints if the match is really good . collie
more installation pictures
. This company has the whole assembly and just joints for certain models but .. the instructions are really great..good pictures too... http://www.superatv.com/instructions/IN-RA-8-23-R.pdf collie
. This company has the whole assembly and just joints for certain models but .. the instructions are really great..good pictures too... http://www.superatv.com/instructions/IN-RA-8-23-R.pdf collie
I just ordered my 2011 RTV 900 xt u joints from the nice folks at Messicks. I ordered the oil seals as well. They have a great break down of it on their parts diagram too..(The rear joints , are listed on the last page of the transmission section, NOT the rear axle section. http://www.messicks.com/kubotatractorparts.aspx collie
Heck, when I finally find it by chance a year later I won't even remember what it is, where it came from, and where it should go...
How much were the complete kits compared to the stock pieces from Kubota collie? Any body that messed up the yokes this would be a could choice I would think.
Hi Art, the Kubota assemblies are really up there in price. K1711-12334 assembly is in the upper 300's and the K1711-12323 is a bit above 300. The ujoints by themselves are right at 100 each so that is 400 for them I am doing all 4 at the same time because I don't want to do this again for a long while.. These are the greaseable ones I'm getting from K. I wonder if the only difference is that the off brand assemblies are sealed and not greasable...???? so that could be why they say they won't fit in the models that have the oem greasable joints??? I dunno but am not taking a chance. I am however, going to take my old joints to the parts place where I have a good buddy so I will at least know about next time ( if there is one). I saw the sealed aftermarket joints on that site I listed for 1/2 of what I am paying for oem and thought I go with the oem and knowledgeable dealer. I know they will fit my 2011. A person could save a ton on these aftermarket assemblies if they would fit their model though .. It really would be nice to get the whole thing for 200 bucks a side.. collie
edit to say that the diagram of the rear joint assemblies are Near the last page of the transmission section. thanks, collie
edit to say that the diagram of the rear joint assemblies are Near the last page of the transmission section. thanks, collie
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