RTV 900 fuel adjustment

Charles

Member
[quote user="07rhino"]</p>


[quote user="Charles"]</p>


I don't always get home before dark, and I thought a video would go a mile where my text would only go an inch here, so I shot a video even though it was dark. I realize it is of poor visual quality, but I think it should suffice to show the fact that it wasn't moving and the engine was revving and getting pulled down but no spinning or moving, just noise and heat.</p>


If it's needed, I'll try and take another video in the daylight if I have a chance.</p>


</p>


Also, 07Rhino. My email account has likely changed since I first registered on this site. I'll check to see if I can edit it, if not, just post the information on the forum for now if that's acceptable. </p>


And Thanks.</p>
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[/quote]</p>


</p>


Just click on the contact to the top right of this box and email me with your new email</p>


</p>


Watching your video does it do it in med/high as well going forward, if all is well foreward you might have a faulty reverse relief valve. But we can test that when you get set up to start checking pressures.</p>


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[/quote]</p>


</p>


</p>


It does it forward or backward, although it's obviously worse in Reverse. It will stall like that in "L" if I
put a load in the bed, although it doesn't do it nearly as bad now that
I turned that throttle stop all the way in a little while back in hopes
of getting more "throw" out of the hydro control linkage. </p>


I have attributed the problem with reverse to the fact that it seems to have a higher ratio (numerically lower) in reverse than in low. I haven't gone out and fully tested it yet, but I would bet you the machine runs faster at WOT (flat ground) in reverse than it does in forward.</p>


</p>


One
question though... Why did Kubota feel it necessary to actually even
have a reverse "gear" in the first place? Wouldn't it have been
easier to simply push the hydro in the opposite direction and use the
same forward ratios... just in reverse, much like a tractor would?
Being that the hydrostatic unit can't tell the difference between the
ratios you choose in the trans, why would it be any different in
Reverse than in "L" "M" or "H"? </p>


I'll try to get you my email address. But I think a phone conversation would go miles farther (quicker).</p>


And Thanks.</p>


</p>
 

zenchal26

Member
07Rhino</p>


<span style="font-family: Arial; color: black; font-size: 10pt;">I sent you an email the other day, not sure if you got it. Any way, I was wondering if you could go through the steps for adjusting the throttle, the shift, and the speed cables. When I got mine back from the dealer (after the shifter fork inside the Trans broke) it was like a whole new machine. It was faster more power and shifted smooth as silk. Now after about 100 hrs the shifter is starting to stick a little and top end throttle and speed are lower. Is it right to assume these problems are due to cable stretch? I don’t want to jack Charles thread here but I'm sure he is also going to need these steps as well. I am a mechanic so I should be able to do anything that needs to be done; I'm just lacking the knowledge. Thanks for any help<o:p></o:p></span></p>
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</p>
 
[quote user="Charles"]One question though... Why did Kubota feel it necessary to actually even have a reverse "gear" in the first place? Wouldn't it have been easier to simply push the hydro in the opposite direction and use the same forward ratios... just in reverse, much like a tractor would? Being that the hydrostatic unit can't tell the difference between the ratios you choose in the trans, why would it be any different in Reverse than in "L" "M" or "H"? [/quote]</p>


My sentiment exactly. The beauty of the hydro transmissions other than the infinite gear ratios they simulate is their ability to instantly change direction without the need to shift a lever. Peculiar they woud not have simply kept this ability in the RTV, otherwise a simple mechanical 3 or 4 gear standard would do the job better????? ....and less complex???.....</p>
 

Charles

Member
Well, I secured a turbocharger or two yesterday. And I know some guys that use these RTV's to move open class pulling trucks around, and these guys run injection shops. One of which I talked to a couple years ago about modding the pump. I assume he'll still do it for me. With that being the case, if I can just get this trans to take some power..... I'll put some on it, lol.</p>


Anybody know the CR on this little engine? It is DI isn't it?</p>


If it won't hold I'll chuck the pistons up in the lathe and drop the compression a bit. Surely the rods can hold a 100% increase in power. I figure with a modded pump and a turbo I should be able to make 30 to 40hp no sweat. That ought to give this thing a swift kick in the pants. If I can't keep the head on I'll have a set of studs made for it. </p>


You could say I've snapped.... but for some reason today I'm feeling the need to make this thing the way it SHOULD be. Regardless. </p>


</p>


If you guys can help me get the hydrostatic unit prepped well, I'll throw some power at it. It's not like I'm going to void the warranty or anything.</p>


lmao.</p>
 

Keifer

Senior Member
Gold Site Supporter
Charles ......... et al:</p>


This is a very interesting thread. While the Kubota RTV generally holds a very high reputation as a work UTV, it also has some peculiar technical quips. As I've learned, some of these "quips" are minor irritations while others are enought to make you want to pull your hair out, or at least make you keep slapping yourself in the forehead. Ouch! While I'm not a mechanical genius or even an engineer- type, I like to learn how others approach problems and how they solve those problems. This Forum has an abundance of knowledgeable RTV owners who very generously offer their expertice and/or experience. Many of us are back in the shadows on some of these subjects but are gleaningso much informationfrom all of your input. Just saying thanks to all.</p>


BTW: Several months ago Imade a decision and ended uppurchasing a new John Deere TLB 110. I'm here to say It has only surpassed all my expectations.In the future when I'm able to purchase a RTV, I am anticipating it will also surpass my expectations.</p>


PS: Charles, if you were going to give your RTV to Tommy for free, I'll give you $1.00 for it. LOL</p>


Keifer, a RTV wannabe</p>
 

zenchal26

Member
<span style="font-family: Arial; color: black; font-size: 10pt;">Charles,well it sounds like all your frustration is going to make a pretty interesting project. Please keep us all posted on your monster rtv build.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
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</p>
 

Peanut

Well-known member
SUPER Site Supporter
i'll see thatdollar and i will raise you a dollar . man i need an rtv in the worst kinda way just think of all them nice parts i could make.lol iam still holding out that maybe by the winter time i might find a way to get one. i be hoping things work out .</p>
 

bczoom

Senior Member
Staff member
Gold Site Supporter
[quote user="Charles"]I figure with a modded pump and a turbo I should be able to make 30 to 40hp no sweat. That ought to give this thing a swift kick in the pants.[/quote]</p>


OK, I'm a bit confused. All indications are that your current issues are in the tranny. I'm no hydraulic or hydrostatic expert so I haven't been posting. If your tranny isn't using the available power available from the stock engine, what are you expecting it to do with 30-40HP?</p>


Personally, I wouldn't touch the engine until the tranny was working properly. You'll have all that engine sitting there but if you still can't back up, what good is it? I also have to wonder what the weak point in the drivetrain will be if/when you do apply that kind of HP to a working tranny.</p>


BTW, where do you live (ballpark)? </p>


Nothing against Keifer, but I think Tommy should get the winning bid. My reasoning is that Tommy just needs one to sit in the garage so he can fabricate the parts for it. Heck, I don't even think he needs an engine or tranny. Keifer will need a properly working unit as he lives in the hills.</p>


</p>
 

Peanut

Well-known member
SUPER Site Supporter
yea i juss need one with a frame and body on it i can tilt the bed myself .the problem is trying to find one that's done give out it seems like they tend to run forever. heck the dealer down here won't even let me walk around his stuff without running out there to see what i'm doing. he could have had a heck of a good thing going to i made him an offer that if he let me get measurements i would make all the parts he needed to bling out his rtv's his answer was you ain't gonna measure nuthin over here but if you buy one i'll be glad to let you come by and get all the measurements you want. and his price was $3,000 more than anyone esles price he wanted over 18thousand for a basic 1100 model and a guy that twuguns knows and hooked me up with was gonna deliver me a new 1100 with all the options for 15 thousand and he is way up in north louisiana but the guy didn't take credit cards so the deal fell though but man was i close to getting it they had it on the truck and the driver was about to leave with it to bring it down . i bet the dealer down here wouldn't even give me a deal on a blown up on . that goes to show you how some dealers will just plain outright treat you like crap and other who are almost a state away will do anything to please you.</p>
 
I wish I could say that I was a Hydro transmission expert, I,m trying to learn all I can by keeping up on all the posts in this form. Having said that, I do know a thing or two about operating a machine with a hydro xmission as I currently own 4 and had 2 older ones in the past. Now I'm not implying this thread subject is operator error, so don,t take me wrong.</p>


A common error operators of a hydro drive tractor for instance makes is treating the foot pedal as a gas pedal (throttle). They think that pressing harder down or further in (giving it gas) will increase the power to the wheels. NOT. What they are doing is speeding up the transmission output to the wheels but decreasing the torque being applied to the wheels. Using a FEL on a hydro tractor will quickly demonstrate this. If the operator approaches the pile and floors the pedal, the engine will really come under load and begin to choke. Doing the same but with moderate pedal application will (with a hst 4x4)cause the wheels to begin to spin once the resistance to the bucket becomes greater than the force the tractor applies until it looses traction. Its a natural action to "step on the gas" so to speak but all the operator is accomplishing is telling the unit to go faster but apply less torque.</p>


The RTV really mucks this up because the ground speed (transmission output) and engine speed are controlled by the same pedal. If you don't have a hand throttle to controll the engine speed separately then what happens is when the operator thinks he's telling the unit to pull harder (mashing the pedal to the floor), what he's really saying is apply less pulling power and go faster. Its always a trade off..more speed less power.(same as the difference between pulling a heavy load in 1st or 3rd with a mechanical standard transmission.</p>


I,ve been playing lately (while working)by really loading up the rtv box and and trying differnt scenario. If I approach an incline and creep up the hill, she goes, if I mash the pedal the engine bogs down. (I do have a hand throttle but didn,t use it for my experiments.</p>


Note...I'm not refering to L-M-H speed range selector here. Again, I AM NOT IMPLYING THE POWER ISSUE IN THIS THREAD IS OPERATOR ERROR ...I'm simply correcting a misconception that I've run into time and again over the years with new HST owners who believe they are calling for more pulling power when they mash their pedal to the floor.</p>


Thats my 22cents worth.</p>
 

Keifer

Senior Member
Gold Site Supporter
</p>


...Nothing against Keifer, but I think Tommy should get the winning bid. My reasoning is that Tommy just needs one to sit in the garage so he can fabricate the parts for it. Heck, I don't even think he needs an engine or tranny. Keifer will need a properly working unit as he lives in the hills...</p>


</p>


BC:...I agree and conceed. I hereby immdeiatelywithdraw my bid of $1.00 for Charles's broken down, good for nuthing peice of crap, trouble prone, wont go up a hill, turn in a ditch or go in reverse, SUV. ( Hey Tommy.... remember all this when I get my RTV and order parts from you.) lol</p>


In the meantime, lots luck Charles.</p>


Keifer, a RTV wannabe</p>
 

Charles

Member
[quote user="Kubota Kanook"]</p>


I wish I could say that I was a Hydro transmission expert, I,m trying to learn all I can by keeping up on all the posts in this form. Having said that, I do know a thing or two about operating a machine with a hydro xmission as I currently own 4 and had 2 older ones in the past. Now I'm not implying this thread subject is operator error, so don,t take me wrong.</p>


A common error operators of a hydro drive tractor for instance makes is treating the foot pedal as a gas pedal (throttle). They think that pressing harder down or further in (giving it gas) will increase the power to the wheels. NOT. What they are doing is speeding up the transmission output to the wheels but decreasing the torque being applied to the wheels. Using a FEL on a hydro tractor will quickly demonstrate this. If the operator approaches the pile and floors the pedal, the engine will really come under load and begin to choke. Doing the same but with moderate pedal application will (with a hst 4x4)cause the wheels to begin to spin once the resistance to the bucket becomes greater than the force the tractor applies until it looses traction. Its a natural action to "step on the gas" so to speak but all the operator is accomplishing is telling the unit to go faster but apply less torque.</p>


The RTV really mucks this up because the ground speed (transmission output) and engine speed are controlled by the same pedal. If you don't have a hand throttle to controll the engine speed separately then what happens is when the operator thinks he's telling the unit to pull harder (mashing the pedal to the floor), what he's really saying is apply less pulling power and go faster. Its always a trade off..more speed less power.(same as the difference between pulling a heavy load in 1st or 3rd with a mechanical standard transmission.</p>


I,ve been playing lately (while working)by really loading up the rtv box and and trying differnt scenario. If I approach an incline and creep up the hill, she goes, if I mash the pedal the engine bogs down. (I do have a hand throttle but didn,t use it for my experiments.</p>


Note...I'm not refering to L-M-H speed range selector here. Again, I AM NOT IMPLYING THE POWER ISSUE IN THIS THREAD IS OPERATOR ERROR ...I'm simply correcting a misconception that I've run into time and again over the years with new HST owners who believe they are calling for more pulling power when they mash their pedal to the floor.</p>


Thats my 22cents worth.</p>
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[/quote]</p>


</p>


</p>


Okay....... now take that same description you just gave for any given vehicle you see this on. Alright? </p>


</p>


Now double the engine's power output.... Whoops. Now it doesn't happen. The machine just spins harder and harder the more you ask from it by increasing the load via the hydrostatic unit. The only reason you're seeing what you're seeing as you describe above is because those machines don't have enough power to drive the hydrostatic unit at full load.</p>


</p>


The moral of the story is this...... I'm not going to be willing to back off the hydro load in order to keep the little wimp of an engine from getting owned. I would rather just have the engine produce the power I need, and then apply the load as I see fit. Ideally, I would only be limited by traction, and full application of the pedal would result in it blowing all 4 tires off at will whenver I wanted. Although I'm not expecting to build an open class pull engine out of this little 3 popper Kubota, so I'll just settle for it being at least equivelently capable as my 955 John Deere tractor.... lol.</p>


Fwiw, you stab the hydro to the floor on that little 955 and it WILL either spin all 4 or pull the front tires off the ground. It doesn't play the lay down and whine game like the bota does. Maybe that's just a Deere for you. </p>


LMAO</p>


</p>
 

Charles

Member
[quote user="bczoom"]</p>


[quote user="Charles"]I figure with a modded pump and a turbo I should be able to make 30 to 40hp no sweat. That ought to give this thing a swift kick in the pants.[/quote]</p>


OK, I'm a bit confused. All indications are that your current issues are in the tranny. I'm no hydraulic or hydrostatic expert so I haven't been posting. If your tranny isn't using the available power available from the stock engine, what are you expecting it to do with 30-40HP?</p>


Personally, I wouldn't touch the engine until the tranny was working properly. You'll have all that engine sitting there but if you still can't back up, what good is it? I also have to wonder what the weak point in the drivetrain will be if/when you do apply that kind of HP to a working tranny.</p>


BTW, where do you live (ballpark)? </p>


Nothing against Keifer, but I think Tommy should get the winning bid. My reasoning is that Tommy just needs one to sit in the garage so he can fabricate the parts for it. Heck, I don't even think he needs an engine or tranny. Keifer will need a properly working unit as he lives in the hills.</p>


</p>
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[/quote]</p>


</p>


Go re-read the post you pulled that quote out of and you'll see that the first thing I said was to get the trans to hold the power..... then the rest of my post followed, included the part where you found that quote. You will also see that I mentioned getting the trans to hold again at the end of the post.</p>
 
[quote user="Charles"] </p>


The only reason you're seeing what you're seeing as you describe above is because those machines don't have enough power to drive the hydrostatic unit at full load.</p>


</p>


[/quote]</p>


You are absolutely correct, if we just keep increasing the engine out put it will eventually be sufficient to perform as you say or blow the transmission. I'm simply pointing out that operating a hydro at full open is the equivilent of driving in high gear in a standard transmission. With a hoe hanging off the back and the FEL dug deep into into a pile, I can still spin the 4 (well 3 with the diffloc engaged) wheels </p>


of my 13 year old B1700.</p>


I certainly am of the opinion that the RTV could have been better thought out and am in sympathy with your situation. Keep us posted with your progress.</p>
 
[quote user="Kubota Kanook"] I'm simply pointing out that operating a hydro at full open is the equivilent of driving in high gear in a standard transmission. [/quote][quote user="Kubota Kanook"]</p>


[quote user="Charles"] </p>


The only reason you're seeing what you're seeing as you describe above is because those machines don't have enough power to drive the hydrostatic unit at full load.</p>


</p>


[/quote]</p>


You are absolutely correct, if we just keep increasing the engine out put it will eventually be sufficient to perform as you say or blow the transmission. I'm simply pointing out that operating a hydro at full open is the equivilent of driving in high gear in a standard transmission. With a hoe hanging off the back and the FEL dug deep into into a pile, I can still spin the 4 (well 3 with the diffloc engaged) wheels </p>


of my 13 year old B1700.</p>


I certainly am of the opinion that the RTV could have been better thought out and am in sympathy with your situation. Keep us posted with your progress.</p>
<div style="CLEAR: both"></div>


[/quote]</p>


</p>


I guess another way of saying it is if you are pulling a heavy load up a hill with a gear machine and it starts to bog down, you shift to a lower gear, with a hydro you back off on the pedal (not the throttle).</p>
 

TWO GUNS

Senior Member
Site Supporter
That is <span style="text-decoration: underline;">THE BEST</span> way to say it !!!!</p>


...... two guns </p>
 

Peanut

Well-known member
SUPER Site Supporter
[quote user="Keifer"]</p>


</p>


...Nothing against Keifer, but I think Tommy should get the winning bid. My reasoning is that Tommy just needs one to sit in the garage so he can fabricate the parts for it. Heck, I don't even think he needs an engine or tranny. Keifer will need a properly working unit as he lives in the hills...</p>


</p>


BC:...I agree and conceed. I hereby immdeiatelywithdraw my bid of $1.00 for Charles's broken down, good for nuthing peice of crap, trouble prone, wont go up a hill, turn in a ditch or go in reverse, SUV. ( Hey Tommy.... remember all this when I get my RTV and order parts from you.) lol</p>


In the meantime, lots luck Charles.</p>


Keifer, a RTV wannabe</p>
<div style="CLEAR: both"></div>


[/quote]</p>


you man is crazy you know i collect junk. one mans junk is another mans treasure. now getting back to the problem at hand the power issue . have you ever tried to hook up to anything and pull it in reverse on flat ground?? the reasson i'm asking is i have seen where water will build up in a engine or anything for that matter and it will throw you off on the oil readings because oil stays on top there for when you check the dip stick it will show you have oil and you won't see any water on the stick because most times the oil runs it off. you could be low on oil and not know it but checkin on level ground will tell you it's not a tranny problem and it might be a fluid problem.</p>
 
[quote user="Charles"]</p>


Well, I secured a turbocharger or two yesterday. And I know some guys that use these RTV's to move open class pulling trucks around, and these guys run injection shops. One of which I talked to a couple years ago about modding the pump. I assume he'll still do it for me. With that being the case, if I can just get this trans to take some power..... I'll put some on it, lol.</p>


Anybody know the CR on this little engine? It is DI isn't it?</p>


If it won't hold I'll chuck the pistons up in the lathe and drop the compression a bit. Surely the rods can hold a 100% increase in power. I figure with a modded pump and a turbo I should be able to make 30 to 40hp no sweat. That ought to give this thing a swift kick in the pants. If I can't keep the head on I'll have a set of studs made for it. </p>


You could say I've snapped.... but for some reason today I'm feeling the need to make this thing the way it SHOULD be. Regardless. </p>


</p>


If you guys can help me get the hydrostatic unit prepped well, I'll throw some power at it. It's not like I'm going to void the warranty or anything.</p>


lmao.</p>
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[/quote]</p>


</p>


Seeing as though you are wanting to put my help on the back burner, I will do the same. You are trying to pull a calf from the wrong end and reaching your arm down the cows throat.</p>


I gave you the option for all the information on that machine through download, but you seem to not want it. I won't be around for awhile, its haying season and when that is done going away for a bit. So if I am on, it will be sporatic.</p>


Good luck with your engine build, and like I have said before, if you DON'T have charge pressure, correct main relief pressure, that HST won't work proprely. So you can build yourself a 40hp engine, it doesn't matter, that HST won't transfer any power because you need to do step one first.</p>


</p>


</p>
 

TWO GUNS

Senior Member
Site Supporter
Well, ya'll blew that one smooth out of the saddle!!!!</p>


***** Don't think that opportunity will ever come around again ~~~</p>


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