yes i see. that is really worn bad isn't it. probably the slop is causing the swash plate to not get full travel causing low speed. i think you need to seperate the hydrostat from the gear transmission but you should follow the WSM. or even better to just pull the whole transaxle at the bell housing and bench it. you need a complete rebuild or exchange for a new unit. what is the price difference???
Kubota RTV 900 transmission problem - hardley moves in gear!
- Thread starter PACKASAURAS
- Start date
I've been quoted the following :Trans kit £4068, Rebuilt kit £1379 - Both plus vat. That's parts only. Contacted a dealer for supply and fit to compare options. I think casing is ok so rebuilt kit should be sufficient? Could i not even just replace swash plate, guide and pin and piston and reuse everything else?
i think if you order a kit you get everything. should be able to order individual parts or groups,so yes. i am not sure how much you save if any when you buy the kit. can you source a good used transmission? i think i have seen some on ebay for 1600 US. probably should replace the cover where those curved bearings are.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kubota-R...792722?hash=item1a4cfce892:g:rIYAAOSwu-BWOW2J
used parts or whole thing
used parts or whole thing
most but not all re builders will keep all of the parts out of the old transmissions and check them. if they meet minimum wear spec they reuse them. so it is possible to get a rebuilt tranny and have parts in it with thousands of hours on them.
Thanks for links. This swash plate and guide is the only part, that i can see, that is showing significant wear. Everything else (apart from inside of piston housing - which looks a little rough) looks quite fresh. I would regret opening up to replace the swash plate and it didn't improve things, however I am confident this is the culprit. Need to find some instructions on how to remove the tranny from engine. Think i will buy WSM today!!
it will be interesting to see what a new swash plate guide and pin cost new from Kubota? that might be the cheapest route maybe. i agree you need a good complete WSM for the model and year of your machine.please keep us posted with your progress.
Thanks for your help to date. I await prices for new piston, lever assembly and swash with guide (replacing visually damaged parts and suspect parts only) and will review prices against full overhaul kit. I will consider opening myself but feel a little uneasy about it!! So will price for overhaul plus fitting at dealer. Will keep you updated although becoming busy with other jobs (which Kubota would be useful for!!). Does anyone have instructions on how to separate axle and pull out hst? Sorry if i have missed a link for this.
i suggest you search this site for "replaceing u joints" in the rear axle. you should find many threads. when you replace the u joints you have to pull the axle. the inner u joint is spline and inserts into the rear housing. there might be a snap ring. contact bordercollie on this site.
Thanks Arthuritis.
Here is a link to the thread on "rear ujoints needed again" .http://www.nettractortalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13788&highlight=rear+ujoints+needed&page=3 There are some pictures around the July 18, 2015 post . I used some ratcheted tie downs to help with holding it in place while tackling the removal.You will need to take the boot bands off of the outer side shafts so it can slip out . ( the outer axle shafts slip into each other under the outer boot like on a pto shaft.) Good luck- It may be a good time to check those ujoints too.
bordercollieThanks guys. Ive been looking at this machine again tonight. Once the axle is off i suspect I need to jack the back end righ up (at least 3ft off the ground), support and unbolt the engine and tranny case from the frame and swing the frame down out of the way. This should allow me to split the tranny case. Not sure how to support the engine and tranny as I dont have an aframe or winch.... If I split with frame in-situ I suspect there is not enough space to split open the tranny and get in about it. Lots of controls to disconnect and alot of things to remember how to put back together!!
pretty sure you can leave the engine in frame. split at the bell house and remove the htv and transmission as one.
Will shafts not prevent me from lifting out? Just wondering if i can get to it from the side if i open up rear wheel shaft drive on passenger side? Again if engaged into another shaft i will not have tolerance to disengage and pull back/forward. Has anyone been in through the side? I think I read the main pump shaft is held in by a circlip - if I can get in here and remove circlip I can pull shaft out rear and avoid opening up case?? Or is it quite tight and confined in there?!
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if you are referring to the axle shafts? if so you can take loose the band around the boot and pull the spline shafts apart.
yes you can remove the circlip as you describe. "I think" also remember another doing same in another thread. i think i linked it to you in a pm
Not sure we are taking about the same thing here - i want to get into the back of shaft 070 on last photo. I think i read it was help in by a circlip so if i can open up case from side, release circlip, pull shaft out of the rear, replace swashplate and guide and reassemble... This would save alot of work. Sounds a good idea but not sure if it is possible??!!
in a discussion i was reading on another forum i think i pm it to you. there was a man who was a professional that did just as you described.he remarked that the procedure was successful and it saves about 14 hours of work. he said he removed the axle shaft and then removed the cover and brake assembly from inside. this exposed the shaft and retainer. i am sorry i can't be more specific as i just read about it and saw no photos. he also said that it was a slight press fit and had to use a puller with mild pull
sent pm found it