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Old 01-20-2019, 08:06 AM
v10rick v10rick is offline
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Default Replacing RTV900 U joint

Is there a thread that provides specifics about how to remove the front drive shaft on the RTV900? The U joint is kaput.

I have removed the spline/yoke pin on one side but there is no drive shaft movement after doing this.

Does this require removal of the center bearing support?

Hard to believe a Google search was not helpful.
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Old 01-20-2019, 08:56 AM
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Got this.
The snap ring at the center bearing had to come off, which provided enough movement to remove the shaft.
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Old 01-20-2019, 08:57 PM
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That's a good job V10rick. When I replaced mine, at what seems like an eternity ago, I think what I did to replace my shaft was ... to take out the carrier bearing by letting the whole array down on my stomach. That way, I got to check out the carrier bearing too. Those things are expensive though and I believe it was member Mark S.Sibole that tried to find an aftermarket one - but to no avail.. (back then). collie
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Old 01-21-2019, 09:31 AM
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All Kubota parts are expensive IMO. This OEM U joint was $56 with shipping. The center bearing is $63 plus shipping.

Except for this one very loose U joint, near the center bearing, the others are tight.

If this does not fix the 4WD squeak I may go with the updated one piece shaft.

Will the one piece shaft require loosening/removing the front differential?

Last edited by v10rick; 01-21-2019 at 09:45 AM.
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Old 01-21-2019, 11:02 AM
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I've never had to replace mine on the 2011- at now just over 4000 hrs-I think there is a post on here from someone else who adapted the 2 pc to the new design and think it did involve some slight metal work so it could go straight thru. ie .. The carrier bearing area is eliminated. Can't remember what was said about the other parts of installation though. I consider it worth the expense since it doesn't rattle and last so very long. ( Like the early years should have) . collie

edit heres one thread: http://www.nettractortalk.com/forums...ht=drive+shaft

and another http://www.nettractortalk.com/forums...nt+drive+shaft
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Old 01-21-2019, 11:49 AM
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Thanks for the links.

Its confusing...one poster said it was a nightmare and another said it was spring loaded and easy.

The thread flips from the driveshaft to axle to cv joints.

???
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Old 01-21-2019, 12:21 PM
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I think there are a few more threads that may help, but I agree. I wish I could help you from experience but thankfully have never had to do this yet.
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Old 01-22-2019, 07:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v10rick View Post
All Kubota parts are expensive IMO. This OEM U joint was $56 with shipping. The center bearing is $63 plus shipping.

Except for this one very loose U joint, near the center bearing, the others are tight.

If this does not fix the 4WD squeak I may go with the updated one piece shaft.

Will the one piece shaft require loosening/removing the front differential?
it is spring loaded and does not require looseing the differential . minor cutting of the metal shield is involved . it is worth the expense to replace it as a one piece.
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Old 01-22-2019, 05:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muffler man View Post
it is spring loaded and does not require looseing the differential . minor cutting of the metal shield is involved . it is worth the expense to replace it as a one piece.
Cutting the shield?

Is this referring to the cross member where the center bearing is mounted?
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Old 01-23-2019, 07:12 AM
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Originally Posted by v10rick View Post
Cutting the shield?

Is this referring to the cross member where the center bearing is mounted?
yes
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Old 01-23-2019, 07:33 PM
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Completed the U joint repair today, the 4WD squeak is gone.

BUT while under there I noticed the front CV boots are cracked. There are no steering issues or strange sounds from the front.

What are the consequences if I leave as is for now? I found the post about replacing the front axle assembly, with aftermarket units, but since the RTV is needed now to clear tree debris I would like to leave this repair for summer.
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Old 01-23-2019, 09:07 PM
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Hi , You'll be taking a chance on junk getting in there and ruining the whole assembly. I personally don't know the life expectancy on the entire oem assembly but do know that I am getting over 4000 hrs out of my first ones on this 2011, on the 2005 which were fine when sold at over 4200 hrs ( my current 2011 rtv xt that just rolled over on 4000 hrs last week). They are still fine as far as I know . Thanks chiefly to the super duty Peanut stick stoppers.
I understand what you are thinking - if an entire assembly is just a little more complete than rubber boots alone, and ready to put on why fool with boot replacement? I think the boots themselves I put on the 05 when I sold it in August of 2011 were not cheap . The ones that came with it new though did last 6 years. I also noticed cracks down in the ribs when I was getting ready to sell it- if I remember right, so replaced them. It's important to keep dried mud from caking up around them too. Sometimes the stick stoppers can hide that, but the worst place is right there by the A arm where it meets the frame. mud just loves to hide and dry there and do the rub a dub dub to the boots.
If I knew the whole assembly could be had for almost the price of the boots alone, I would maybe lean that way , but I just don't know their long term track record........ collie
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Old 01-24-2019, 08:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bordercollie View Post
Hi , You'll be taking a chance on junk getting in there and ruining the whole assembly. I personally don't know the life expectancy on the entire oem assembly but do know that I am getting over 4000 hrs out of my first ones on this 2011, on the 2005 which were fine when sold at over 4200 hrs ( my current 2011 rtv xt that just rolled over on 4000 hrs last week). They are still fine as far as I know . Thanks chiefly to the super duty Peanut stick stoppers.
I understand what you are thinking - if an entire assembly is just a little more complete than rubber boots alone, and ready to put on why fool with boot replacement? I think the boots themselves I put on the 05 when I sold it in August of 2011 were not cheap . The ones that came with it new though did last 6 years. I also noticed cracks down in the ribs when I was getting ready to sell it- if I remember right, so replaced them. It's important to keep dried mud from caking up around them too. Sometimes the stick stoppers can hide that, but the worst place is right there by the A arm where it meets the frame. mud just loves to hide and dry there and do the rub a dub dub to the boots.
If I knew the whole assembly could be had for almost the price of the boots alone, I would maybe lean that way , but I just don't know their long term track record........ collie
This RTV is a 2005 with 1200hrs. on the clock.

The cracks are down the ribs, not noticeable with wheels straight ahead.
Cv boots are clean, the forest floor is free of small debris as well so I will operate as is...until.

Kubota must use crap cv boot material. My 10yr. old BX2350, stored in a garage, with about 500 hrs., it has split cv boots.
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Old 01-24-2019, 08:10 AM
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If you're not going to replace the torn boots, should you coat/cover the cracks with something like axle grease to keep anything from getting inside?
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Old 01-24-2019, 11:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bczoom View Post
If you're not going to replace the torn boots, should you coat/cover the cracks with something like axle grease to keep anything from getting inside?
Good idea, this may help until I can get to it.
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