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  #61  
Old 04-04-2019, 08:33 PM
shinnery shinnery is offline
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You might investigate if any machine shop near you can "knerl" the piston skirt on the suspected cylinder. It is a process to imress a pattern (a crosshatch usually) on the skirt and have material upset around the pattern and further fill the space between the piston and cylinder wall. It can quieten some engines.
Bryce
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  #62  
Old 04-15-2019, 08:08 PM
Terrawombat Terrawombat is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shinnery View Post
You might investigate if any machine shop near you can "knerl" the piston skirt on the suspected cylinder. It is a process to imress a pattern (a crosshatch usually) on the skirt and have material upset around the pattern and further fill the space between the piston and cylinder wall. It can quieten some engines.
Bryce
I suspect that would require the engine to be removed and stripped down? If engine removal is necessary then I would definitely opt to either replace the entire engine with a good used or rebuilt unit. The engine removal process on these things is pretty involved since it requires pulling out the entire transmission assembly. I feel like if I'm going to get invested in a task like that I'll want to take the easy (and more expensive) road so I don't have to do it again!

Despite the engine tapping that seems to come and go whenever it pleases, I have been using the machine for light duty work around my property. I don't really have any good stretches of land/road where I can open this thing up to evaluate the health of the transmission. The road that my house sits on has a couple of speed bumps that hinder my ability to go wide open throttle. I also have a few retired neighbors on that road who enjoy keeping a close watch on the road and reporting suspicious activity. I have made a few wide open throttle runs and it seems like the vehicle gets up to about 20mph fairly easily but doesn't seem to want to go beyond that. It also seems like it brakes a little too violently when I let off the throttle, but that could also be because I'm simply not used to the machine and its throttle sensitivity. My Uncle has a similar unit (can't remember if it's a 900 or 1100) so I'm going to try and get to his place this weekend and test drive his to see how it compares to mine.
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  #63  
Old 04-15-2019, 09:22 PM
shinnery shinnery is offline
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All the work would be done on the piston skirt itself. I was understanding you had removed the pistons with the engine in place. It was just an idea I thought you might want to explore, I do not know for sure it would help your problem. At very least it would cost a headgasket. If you could find a machine shop to do it. I rebuilt an engine 60 years ago and reused the old pistons by knerling them.
Bryce
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  #64  
Old 04-15-2019, 09:24 PM
aurthuritis aurthuritis is offline
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my 1100 used to put me through the windshield when i let off of the peddle. i bought a coast valve and now it is sweet.
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  #65  
Old 04-22-2019, 10:02 PM
Terrawombat Terrawombat is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shinnery View Post
All the work would be done on the piston skirt itself. I was understanding you had removed the pistons with the engine in place. It was just an idea I thought you might want to explore, I do not know for sure it would help your problem. At very least it would cost a headgasket. If you could find a machine shop to do it. I rebuilt an engine 60 years ago and reused the old pistons by knerling them.
Bryce
Sorry - I misunderstood your suggestion. After reading it a second time it makes a lot more sense. Knurling the piston skirt could absolutely solve my issue and I'll definitely keep that in mind as an option if the tapping issue gets worse.

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Originally Posted by aurthuritis View Post
my 1100 used to put me through the windshield when i let off of the peddle. i bought a coast valve and now it is sweet.
I visited my Uncle over the Easter weekend and he let me take his 2008 RTV1100 out for a spin. He only has 675 hours on his as he only uses it during the fall/winter for deer hunting. He is also very meticulous about the maintenance and he gets all of his work done at the local Kubota dealer so I'm fairly confident it's running as it should. After my test drives around his farm in high-gear I feel much better about my own RTV. I thought that I may have a bad transmission unit since it takes a while for it to build up pressure and then take off in high-gear, but my Uncle's did the same thing so I'm feeling a little better.

I'm going to take a look at all of the various components on the transmission that can be adjusted and make sure everything is within spec. I know that the relief valve on the back of the machine needs to be tinkered with as I sometimes have a tough time shifting out of gear, but if I press hard on the brake pedal, I'm able to easily switch gears. From what I have read in the service manual, there is a physical cable between the brake pedal and the relief valve that I am able to adjust. I looked at it briefly the other day and there still seems to be plenty of adjustment left in the cable and I also want to remove the linkages to clean them up and for a smoother operation.

Once I get the transmission to a point where I'm happy with it's performance and function I'm going to start cutting out the old rotted floor pans and weld in new steel. After riding in my Uncle's RTV with intact floor pans and a stock floor mat I was amazed how quiet the cabin can be....

On a side note, my Dad asked me to take his 1991 Kubota F2000 mower and figure out why the PTO won't go into high. His local dealer said it would be a lot of labor to fix the issue and he's better off scrapping it and buying a new one. I brought the old F2000 back home with me this weekend and will be tearing into that when I get time. I'm hoping it will be an easy fix. My Dad used this thing for almost 10 years with no issues and he really misses the 72" wide cutting deck. The machine runs great and only has 2400 hours on it (thinking the gauge may have died) so it'd be a shame to just scrap it. We just rebuilt the mower deck a couple years ago so that still has a lot of life left in it.
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  #66  
Old 04-22-2019, 10:20 PM
aurthuritis aurthuritis is offline
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they are sometimes difficult to shift and that is normal. you can jack the rear tires off the ground and adjust the creep on the wheels and that sometimes helps. you don't need to adjust a relief valve. there is a cable that connects to a rear brake caliper that actuates a poppet valve that relieves residual pressure allowing faster shifts. my 1100 has a knob like a choke cable on the dash that also pops the poppet.
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  #67  
Old 05-20-2019, 09:43 PM
Terrawombat Terrawombat is offline
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Lost my job three weeks ago so I have been getting a lot of lingering home issues taken care of. I had an old shed on the corner of the property where the termites destroyed the front wall....so I ripped it off. Now I can fit the RTV inside!

Also tore into the F2000 mower a bit and figured out the issue why it won't go into high gear on the PTO - worn splines on the high gear. Parts are on order and I'll be putting that back together in the coming weeks.
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  #68  
Old 05-20-2019, 10:28 PM
geohorn geohorn is offline
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GOOD ON YA! Sometimes the hardest part of a job like that is simply "getting started". Once the task is undertaken it usually goes better for me after that.
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  #69  
Old 05-21-2019, 08:08 AM
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bordercollie bordercollie is offline
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That is a great space for your RTV . That's whats referred to as making a silk purse out of a sow's ear. collie
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