RTV rear bearing help

Mark.Sibole

Well-known member
Hello,
My name is Mark
I have MS but can still do a lot of things on my RTV
The question is I have to replace 1 of the rear U joints again (precision part 397 works fine)and while it is apart I want to check and grease the rear bearings
Can some one give me some info on how to check and or remove the rear bearings on the axel


Regards

Mark
 

Ricochet

Member
The rear axle bearings are pressed into the axle and have bearings seals/caps on them. Just remove these plastic seals/caps to gain access to the bearings...clean and repack them with grease, if needed. Be careful prying the seals/caps out - you don't want to damage them. If you damage them, they should be fairly cheap to replace.

I use to have access to part diagrams, so maybe someone else has some illustrations they could share.

Oh, and make sure the replacement u-joints have grease fittings since that is the main reason they fail.
 

Mark.Sibole

Well-known member
Thanks Ricochet,
On the precision 397 joint I used i did add the grease fitting on it.
Ill wait and see if any one else has any info or pics on removing or inspecting the bearings.
While I had the drivers side apart today I removed the dust cap and the hub and the first seal.
It came out easy but a lot of rust in it
I packed grease in the area then put it back together
Hopefully the grease got pushed into the bearing from the washer while i was putting it back together
Thanks again for your help
It is much appreciated

Regards

Mark
 

Art454

Member
The rear axle bearings are pressed into the axle and have bearings seals/caps on them. Just remove these plastic seals/caps to gain access to the bearings...clean and repack them with grease, if needed. Be careful prying the seals/caps out - you don't want to damage them. If you damage them, they should be fairly cheap to replace.

I use to have access to part diagrams, so maybe someone else has some illustrations they could share.

Oh, and make sure the replacement u-joints have grease fittings since that is the main reason they fail.

I think they fail because they are junk.
Look at a rear wheel car or truck and you get overr 100,000 miles and more and they have no grease fittings.

Art
 

bordercollie

Gold Site Supporter
Gold Site Supporter
Hi Mark, I have the workshop manual . It does not go into great detail on the bearing installation but tells how to break down the rear in order to replace the u joints .It mentions checking the bearings and that is about all. Just a couple of pages. If you want me to snail mail a copy I will be glad to. If you want it, pm me where to send it. bordercollie
 

Deerlope

Member
I just had all 4 rear bearings replaced and it cost me $311.00 and $50 of that was transportation charges. I didn't think that was too bad. While they had the rear axle out I had them put a grease fitting in that will allow me to put grease between the 2 bearings at each side. This should help to keep the water out that causes the rust which causes bearing failure.
 

Mark.Sibole

Well-known member
Was the 350 for the bearings or did that include labor?
I havnt checked prices on them yet but they couldnt be that expensive(I hope)

Regards

Mark
 

Ricochet

Member
I think they fail because they are junk.
Look at a rear wheel car or truck and you get overr 100,000 miles and more and they have no grease fittings.

Art

Yeah, those propeller shafts are not the best but grease fittings on those shafts and where Deerlope mentions on the axle will help prevent wear and tear. You would think grease fittings or better sealed components would have been a no brainer, especially considering the environment these machines can and will work in. I guess the Japanese thought they knew better or they were just being cheap with their design (probably both).
 

bordercollie

Gold Site Supporter
Gold Site Supporter
When my rear joints went out several years ago, the dealer near me told me it would be close to a $1000 for both sides. Little did he know ,I knew he was messing with me. The labor to tear down both sides is very little more than one because the rear of the machine must be torn down for one side or both-so that would already be done for the second one. They wanted full labor individually for each side. The flat rate manual said 2 1/2 hrs for 1 side and somewhere around 3+- for both.(the best I remember) Well, they lost the job and my business, although I did price that over priced fan motor there recently . Anyway , Deerlope's price sounds fair - must have a really good dealer there.I think my total was around $400( not a dealer) I will do it my self if there or when there is a next time, now that I have a shop manual.bordercollie
 

Mark.Sibole

Well-known member
OK I have it all apart and things are laying all over the floor lol
The question I have now is we know the bearings are pressed in but is the axel pressed on the bearings?
I removed the nut washers and seal and went to slide it out but it isnt budging.
Can anyone shed some info on this??
Im hoping to get it all back together by morning.

Regards

Mark
 

bordercollie

Gold Site Supporter
Gold Site Supporter
Are you saying you can't get the axle out of the housing? Were you able to download what I sent out of the manual? They were pdf files and I've never sent them before. page 3-S5,says" Remove the slotted nut,draw out rear axle Tap the outside of the propeller shaft and remove propeller shaft to the inside." bordercollie
 

Mark.Sibole

Well-known member
Yes got them and thanks
Yes I removed the black cap exposing the nut removed the kotter key and removed the nut lock washer and large washer
Then removed the seal. From there iI would have thought the axel would have slipped out to the inside easily.
It didnt so I threaded the nut on 5 or 6 threads and beat it to death with a rubber mallet but it just wouldnt slide
Am I forgetting to do something beside cuss and swear at it???
 

bordercollie

Gold Site Supporter
Gold Site Supporter
Yes got them and thanks
Yes I removed the black cap exposing the nut removed the kotter key and removed the nut lock washer and large washer
Then removed the seal. From there iI would have thought the axel would have slipped out to the inside easily.
It didnt so I threaded the nut on 5 or 6 threads and beat it to death with a rubber mallet but it just wouldnt slide
Am I forgetting to do something beside cuss and swear at it???

Try supporting the housing on something with the shaft hanging loose and then with a solid object like a 2x4 on the nut to avoid thread damage, hit it a little harder. You don't want to damage the threads though so use caution.If that doesn't work , you may need to use pb blaster etc up in there since you are replacing the bearings /seals anyway. I don't know what else. Good Luck, bordercollie
 

Mark.Sibole

Well-known member
Thanks for the info
IM hoping I dont have to replace the bearings and seals I just want to inspect them and grease them if at all possible
Thanks again for your help

Regards

Mark
 

cov62431

Member
When you put it back together you will be tapping on the splined side. Use the 2x4 like BC said, you don't want to mushroom the splines. Makes it VERY difficult to put back together. And yes, the shaft can be difficult to remove. Try screwing the nut down till the top of the nut is flush with the end of the shaft then hit with a hammer. The nut will protect the end of the shaft. Just don't get too carried away. Just good solid strike, doesn't have to be too hard. When the shaft starts to move you got it!
 

cov62431

Member
You can also place a socket over the nut to help absorb the impact of the hammer. Will further help in protecting the nut and shaft.
 

Mark.Sibole

Well-known member
Thanks all ill give it a try this morning
I had hoped to have it all bact together last night but this has slowed me down a bit
Again Thanks for all of the help

Regards

Mark
 

SpudHauler

Active member
Site Supporter
If you can let some WD40 or Fluid Film soak on the joint between the bearing and the shaft over night that will also help.
Then a little heat on the bearing if necessary.
 
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