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  #301  
Old 03-29-2018, 09:13 AM
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Default Ujoint/shaft assembly sources

Link for shaft and ujoint sources
http://www.nettractortalk.com/forums...ad.php?t=17374
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  #302  
Old 01-01-2019, 05:46 PM
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Hey All,

I'm replacing one of the spiders in the inner rear u-joints. Apologies in advance for anything that I've missed in reading through this thread but:

If I'm only replacing one of the inner joints I don't actually need to remove the outer nut on the propellor shaft do I? Just pop the upper boot clips off and then pop the rear bumper off the springs and move it left and right until the two joints come apart?

Also, this may sound like a dumb question, but do I need to mark the splines on this joint that slides apart? I know I need to mark it when I pull the shaft out of the transmission... but the splines are pretty greasy inside the boot... it's easy to mark the yoke housing, but the greasy splines... not so much.

Hope this makes sense.

Thanks in advance, and for everything up to this point.
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  #303  
Old 01-01-2019, 06:15 PM
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Never mind about the marking question... the yoke is already marked to line up with the wide "key" spline.
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  #304  
Old 01-02-2019, 08:16 AM
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Mark it . Look at the posts on phasing the shafts . I believe it is linked or talked about in this thread. A member had much aggravation because he didn't mark the first time he replaced and had to take apart and phase, the vibration was so bad. collie

edit http://www.nettractortalk.com/forums...hlight=phasing
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  #305  
Old 07-15-2019, 06:53 PM
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I will pop this thread back on top again since I had to use it again today. Had one u joint going out. Found it when I was repairing a flat tire.

As to the marking of the shafts....I'm telling you its a good idea. I took a metabo grinder with a cutting wheel an put a mark on both the middle pieces that slide into each other the first time I had them apart. Glad I did because as I was putting it back together as I got one side back in the other poped apart...didn't realize it untill I had the side I was working on done. With the bumper jacked up to install and that boot on there...you can not see it they are lined up correctly or not. By having the marks it was simple to just line them up and slide it back together. I hate to say it but I'm getting pretty good at this. Started mid morining and had it done by 4;30 or so. Just waiting on the red silicone to dry, and I'll be good untill another one goes kuput. Everytime I take that bumper off, I hate the person that designed it a little more. Banjo
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  #306  
Old 07-15-2019, 09:16 PM
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I agree Banjo !! Glad you have it done and it's not freezing cold at least. collie
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  #307  
Old 07-18-2019, 07:58 AM
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Thanks collie, I was wondering if any of you folks that had the older 900 s adjust the factory coast valve and find that it was worth the trouble. I read on here where Mark did it and liked it, but my main concern is did that help with the ujoint problems. When you let off the go pedal this 06 of mine will just about throw you over the dash. I think its way too aggressive.

Banjo
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  #308  
Old 07-18-2019, 09:03 AM
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My 05 always stopped abruptly. The 2011 was much better in that department and I really loved it. I never had it in the shop and just did the basics myself with no adjustments . I could jump off and try to catch a sleeping new calf and it was slowly but quickly stop. I think it was the new transmission design . If I remember correctly, there was a sticker on it saying V2 concerning the transmission and also was called RTV900 xt . some said the xt stood for extra torque but I can't say for sure. I do know I could go up pond levees in H which was awesome.
I sold it to the first person for $6750 with all manuals and all maintenance done from the knuckle cases ,front end , - every single thing. with over 4200 hrs and worn but decent blackwater evolution tires. No smoke and no blowby, I would have kept it but made a promise to myself to sell all machines when they got that number of hours. I will do the same with the Roxor.
Haha long answer but no I never adjusted anything concerning that. I think some folks added a hand throttle and /or a coast valve but I never did. collie
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  #309  
Old 07-18-2019, 09:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by banjo View Post
Thanks collie, I was wondering if any of you folks that had the older 900 s adjust the factory coast valve and find that it was worth the trouble. I read on here where Mark did it and liked it, but my main concern is did that help with the ujoint problems. When you let off the go pedal this 06 of mine will just about throw you over the dash. I think its way too aggressive.

Banjo
my old 1100 would just about throw me through the windshield unless i was very careful letting off of the peddle. all of this torque was directed to the driveline as far as i was concerned so i bought a coast valve and installed it. now there are no stressful torque moments on those joints and i very rarely need the brakes. and no u joint problems.
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  #310  
Old 07-18-2019, 09:28 AM
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My older RTV900- was a 2004 or 05, I think that is one of the biggest problems with them going bad so quickly was that they weren't greasable. It won't do much good to put the greasable joints on it as replacements unless the the fittings can be reached. I think I mentioned in one of the old posts on the measurements needed to add an access hole to the bottom of the bumper area below the joint on the older models (at your own risk of coarse)(( lawyer talk )). A good marking then when the bumper is off to fix the ujoints would be the time to do this "fix" . I tried progressive drilling with it jacked up and it was a real pain..
The 2011 had a hole between a quarter and 50 cent piece so the zerk could be accessed and greased.
I used a grease brand called Red Line and the last set on my 2011 had over 2200 hrs on them- maybe 2400 because I believe I replaced at 1800 hrs but not positive and were still tight when I sold it . I greased monthly and also raising the back end with a floor jack will help you spin the tires and get the fitting just where you want and can reach. Raising the bed makes the other fitting a lot easier to reach especially on passenger side. collie
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  #311  
Old 07-18-2019, 09:46 AM
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Thanks for the replys. I read back in this thread about drilling a hole to grease the inside the axle joints, but when I have the bumper off...i am always in a rush to get it back together and have never done it as of yet.

You folks sure do put the hours on a machine. I bought mine new, its a 2006 and its still in the 1300 hour range. With the low hours it dont seem it shoul have gone through as many problems as I have had with it.

I will mention that the Camine front cv joint that I bought an put on several years ago from Americian CV is still going good. I just wish you could buy the rear axle asymblies some where near as reasonable as you can one of those front units. Then you could just change the whole thing out.

After that first disasembly problem I had...I put it back everytime with plenty of anti seieze and at least the axle slid out of the housing with just a few bumps with a rubber hammer. I remember the time collie and I had the first time we took them apart. Wasnt' fun.

I looked at a new one in Savannah Tn. at the dealer there when I went to pick up my fluid and they were in the $13,000 range. Wife needs a new car...so I will probably run the rtv a while longer. Banjo
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  #312  
Old 07-18-2019, 01:02 PM
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https://locknlube.com/products/push-...CABEgJzPPD_BwE

try one of these for those u joints
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  #313  
Old 07-18-2019, 01:20 PM
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I have one of those and it works fantastically if there's enough room to get it on. It makes most greasing jobs much easier and one handed too. We use it often on easy to get to fittings.
I made a 5 or 6 inch extension out of a piece of threaded pipe (on each end) and screwed on the regular fitting Can now reach firmly and with no flopping like a hose, where my hands don't want to go. For example ,in those plastic corrugated u joint covers on pasture clippers and in deep recesses on the skid steer arms. ( We have a grease pot that we grease with here on the farm.) My bil sez this all the time.. " I paid $65 for that grease pot in 1965 with the money I saved from driving the school bus as a jr in high school." Haha Those were truly the good old days . collie

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  #314  
Old 07-18-2019, 05:14 PM
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this is a picture of my extension for my grease coupling. It does a good job getting up in the hard to reach places. bordercollie
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rear u joints, rear ujoint replacement, u joints, ujoints

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