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Old 03-09-2019, 11:52 PM
averagejoe averagejoe is offline
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Default Got tractor to play with - Mitsubishi D1650 with loader - got some questions

I have zero experience with tractors =) Got one to move rocks around, some minor work like moving around mulch and hopefully being able to move not too heavy pallets for stuff we ship from the house (with forks mounted on the bucket)

I have few questions about it and hoped someone could help me to understand it better =)

First - general question - what I should do first to make sure it will not get destroyed prematurely? I do not know exact year of the machine, but it got diesel 4 cylinder motor.

FEL seems to be aftermarket or custom. Bucket is quite rusted and cutting edge has "smile" - i planed to try to straighten it out using bottle jack technique I found somewhere on the forum. But this will not fix rusted pinholes. Should I plan to reweld bucket, or it is easier to buy bucket instead? I could not find anything that looks like would mount on this loader...



On hydralics control block (not sure what it is called correctly) there are couple holes on the bottom and i see some amount of oil getting out of it. I wander if this is normal and perhaps I am overloading it, or perhaps something is wearing out?



There is also some regulator with japanese text on it. My phone could not pick it up for translation. Perhaps someone knows what this regulator know is for?



Would it be possible to add another attachment, like grapple (which would require separate hydraulic switch I guess) to this?







Should I bother about these lines? Or just wait till they break and buy replacement? And where I can get such replacements?



How long such tire might last and what is the best source to get new tires? It is 8.3 - 22 one. Also, where I can such tire ti be installed? Is it DIY job or I has to unbolt it and take to tire shop? Any tire shop?




Any other advice to first-time tractor, and specifically D1650, user? =)
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Old 03-09-2019, 11:58 PM
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Ha, watching pictures I noticed that right-side arm near bucket bent even more (it was bent when I got it). Gonna remove both arms, cut this piece of rebar and weld something more solid in place of it with a right length using left-side arm.
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Old 03-10-2019, 12:01 AM
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Ah, couple more questions:

How tricky it is to replace brakes and clutch on tractor? These seems to be fine right now, but just trying to figure out what to prepare for in regards of things that should be wearing out eventually.
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Old 03-10-2019, 07:59 AM
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Welcome to the forum.
Maybe it's just me, but I can't see your pics. Are the actual pics somewhere not viewable to the public? (E.g. I don't have Facebook so if they're there, I may not be able to see them).


A couple generic answers.

For the tires, search the internet to see who sells them. I found M E Miller has a lot of sizes you can't find elsewhere.


For putting new tires on, it's best to have someone that has the proper equipment. Around here, there's a place that'll come to your place to change the tires (for a fee). It's normally not much provided the tires aren't filled with Calcium or beet juice.


I can't see your pics but when you said "hydralics control block", if it's the block that has all the valves and your controls, it's commonly referred to as a "Cyclic Control Valve".


For your bucket bend, if the bottle jack doesn't get rid of your smile, if you have torches, you can heat it to get it straight. Don't quote me but I believe you heat it on the opposite side of you want it to come back to. When it cools, it may straighten. E.g. if you're looking at the bucket from the front of the tractor and the middle is bowed down (not a smile but a frown), you heat the bottom side of the bucket.



If you have pressurized hydraulic lines that are leaking, it's definitely a good idea to replace them. A pinhole in a pressurized hyd line can do serious damage to anything that comes into the leaks path. Think of a pressure washer using a straight bead jet. Anything that jet hits is going to take damage.
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Old 03-10-2019, 08:12 AM
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I cannot see the pics either. Best to actually attach your pics to the post rather than link to somewhere else.

Good answers BCzoom for not seeing pics.
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Old 03-10-2019, 10:49 AM
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Here is a post which helps with how to attach pics to your post just in case you need that.
The manage attachments button is under the submit post button along with a lot of other options like adding a poll and more.

http://www.nettractortalk.com/forums...read.php?t=301
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Old 03-10-2019, 11:24 PM
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I can't see the pics either so replying to the descriptions: It sounds like that is a rather beat-up tractor. I suggest just keep up the maintenance on fluids and filters, and keep on running it until it definitely needs something. Hydraulic hoses are far more durable than they look because there is usually a double metal braid. The outer rubber can look shabby but two plies of metal braid protecting two inner layers of rubber give better reliability than you would suspect. If a hose starts to sweat, particularly at a fitting, then replace it immediately. Otherwise just keep running it. I have a couple of hoses on the YM240 (photo in my sig below) that were missing the rubber off the outer braid when I bought the tractor in 2003. They still look shabby - but 15 years later still haven't given me any trouble. My loader hose replacements have been because I got the hoses snarled up in downed orchard trees I was pushing around. (Owner abuse!) Only one was due to sweating.

Tires similar. There's no highway safety to worry about so the old timers just put boots in tractor tires when they wore through all the plies. I wouldn't spend money on that until a tire actually fails, and that likely will take years.

Bent bucket? Unsightly but likely harmless in actual use. If it bothers you I would take the bucket to an autobody shop where the tech knows how to use a torch to shrink it back to straight.

If that were my tractor - I would just run it as-is and start saving for something in better condition rather than pouring money into it. It will still do the work it was designed for, even if its ugly. And it will likely sell for what you paid for it, but will not recover the cost of anything you put into it.


Photos I posted here 10 years ago of my 80's Yanmar. It looks the same today. Despite the thrashed appearance it has run flawless for the 15+ years I've owned it.
http://nettractortalk.com/forums/sho...19&postcount=2



We need photos!
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Old 03-11-2019, 05:00 PM
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Did not realize pictures were not visible and someone already responded! Thank you for quick follow up!!

re-uploaded pictures using Attach Files feature.
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Old 03-11-2019, 05:03 PM
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Few more =)

Another question while at it - I read about safety and how important seat belt is. This one comes without any and I do not see a place where I could bolt one. How people typically solve that? (also do I need to?)
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Old 03-12-2019, 04:11 AM
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I don't see a problem. That one ratty loader hose is harmless if it is one that returns fluid from the loader as the loader comes down. If it's a lift or curl hose and close enough to you that it could spray you if it fails, then it might be a good idea to replace it.

Every town has a hydraulics shop that can replicate a hose you carry in. Expect $25, maybe more for a long hose.

That tire looks like it went flat while parked, then trapped some debris under the rim when it was re-inflated. You might deflate it and get that junk out of there. But assuming there's a tube in there, it isn't hurting anything. It may run days or decades. I wouldn't spend money on tires until its unavoidable.

Operating farm tractors is an extremely high category for risk of death, I think even higher risk than logging or mining. I would add the seatbelt if it is missing so an upset is merely unpleasant rather than fatal. I don't use mine all the time but I do buckle up for side slope work. And raising the loader high, on uneven ground, can take the tractor over. Buckle up for that too. Don't tempt the odds.

But most of all, just put the tractor to work and enjoy it!
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Old 03-12-2019, 06:54 AM
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I'm with California!
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Old 03-12-2019, 09:58 AM
averagejoe averagejoe is offline
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Thanks!

Regards seat belt - can someone perhaps point to someones story with adding seatbelt - i.e. where to get parts and how to safely mount it? I certainly want to add it - it is weird to drive unbuckled (i buckle myself when driving car out of the garage - it is a reflex =)) and yeah, it is certainly unsafe.
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Old 03-12-2019, 10:16 AM
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For the seatbelt, what I'd recommend is to get a seatbelt from a car. You'll want the seatbelt from the rear, center seat (one that doesn't have the shoulder strap).


Before buying, flip your seat up and look for some bolts you can use for securing it. Location should be something strong on the top of the tranny, approximately below the line of where the seat bottom meets the back of the seat.
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Old 03-12-2019, 10:17 AM
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Thank you! Gonna visit my neighborhood junk yard =)
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