Newbie just bought 2010 rtv900...

C

calchef

New member
howdy all!
going to pick up my new to me 2010 camo rtv900 today.
just spent $9500 on it, I hope that wasn't too much.
the thing is loaded with hard cab, high rise filter, gun racks inside and out,
only 155 hours, winch, lights all around, windshield wipers on both sides.
hydraulic dump bed and additional hydraulic ports at rear. and a heater too!
filters say they were changed at 144 hours.

I've been reading a bunch of the threads here and look forward to all the help
you folks have to offer.

my first question is...were there any changes on this model from earlier ones?
any accessories that are a must?
any quirks with this model I should know about?
I don't have a manual for it yet so can anyone tell me when and what the next
major service is?

will post pictures for everyone over the weekend. never done that on this site,
anything I need to know?

thanks in advance for all your help!
ciao
 
Last edited:
H

htr4

Member
Congradts on the new machine! Once you've had one, you'll wonder what you were doing before! Do some searching on the forum for maintenance things, quirks, and other questions. There aren't many, but most are getting used to the hydrostatic transmission...sticky shifting, etc - nothing to be worried about. I always change fluids and filters on a new/used machine just for piece of mind and so you know when they were done. It doesn't hurt to do them. A couple of hundred of bucks in fluid and filters is cheap insurance for a very expensive "down the road" trip! They are wonderful machines and great workhorses. Sounds like a pretty good deal to me with all of the options and low hours. I just sold mine with over 2000hrs with no cab, heater, or camo paint for over 6k... and did nothing but maintenance to it. Couldn't ask for more. Enjoy!
 
bordercollie

bordercollie

Gold Site Supporter
Gold Site Supporter
Welcome ! This is what I do but others may do differently ( According to my old manual on an early model RTV 900... Most items, after the very important first 50 hour service , is about every 100 hours. the transmission after the first 50 hr service ,is changed at every 200 hours. I have stretched mine further but that is your call. grease every 50 hrs. I 'd check/clean the spark arrestor every 50 hrs too...at least till I saw how quickly it stops up in its original shape. If you machine acts tired, it is probably clogged up...... change the front axle and knuckles cases at 400 hours. I don't used my lift much so seldom change that.. but it is said to change it at the same hours as the transmission. Again, This is about what I do , if you have bad operating conditions, it may be different. bordercollie

edit.. also check those wheel lugbolts and make sure they are tight.(55.3-66.4 ftlb)
my engine holds 3.3qts motor oil
transmission 2.6 gallons sudt2
knuckle cases .10qts ea sudt2
front axle case .63 qts sudt2 measure what comes out and confirm this...
 
Last edited:
C

calchef

New member
well for piece of mind I think I will change all the fluids, even though filters say 141 hrs.
forgive me but is the spark arrestor the piece that is on the end of the exhaust?
I didn't get a manual yet so I have no reference at this point.

thanks for the great info bordercollie, much appreciated.

one question I have is...I have a steep dirt driveway and the rtv will only get up it in low.
is that normal? tried it in medium range and no go. can someone confirm this? thanks
 
H

htr4

Member
http://www.nettractortalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14605&highlight=spark+arrestor

The whole tailpipe is bolted on the muffler at the back. Pull the bolts out, remove pipe, clean screen, replace... :) Some of the bolts have a tendency to be finicky coming out, but yours only has 140HRS, so they may be ok. I cut the screen out of mine...If you decide to do this, cut the screen out only don't cut the reinforcements off, they stabilize the pipe. It made a HUGE difference in power in mine. Good luck!
 
H

htr4

Member
My bet is once you clean that 141hr spark arrestor out, you'll be surprised at how it acts at the driveway. Big exhaust blockage will kill power in a hurry! BTW-- GREAT looking machine! Congrats again!
 
C

calchef

New member
hey htr4,
thanks for the link, i'll have to go look again but I did notice something on the end
of the pipe. that link mentioned the older models having that.
do you know when that change was made?
I just took the sellers word that it was a 2010. is there a way to check that?
thanks,
 
H

htr4

Member
My buddy has an 05 with the end tip arrestor. My machine had a date sticker under the hood. Also, you can go to kubotas website and put in the serial number and it should tell you what year it is. If you have the tip version of the arrestor, it's a little easier to clean! I'm pretty sure the sawzall got taken to my friends the night it came home. :). Mine was an 08 and it had the tube style.
 
H

htr4

Member
Another way to tell for sure, if I remember correctly. If the VIN is 17 digits long (like a car) the 10th digit will tell you. I believe on some of the older ones they are 16 digits and the 9th digit should tell you. Someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but I think that's the way it worked on these. Just looked at my 16 digit vin and mine says "8" on the 9th digit of the vin...making it an 08.
 
bordercollie

bordercollie

Gold Site Supporter
Gold Site Supporter
Also, the new style muffler has bolts holding the tailpipe and interior spark arrestor on.. My 05 only had the screen on the end of the pipe and the muffler is made in one piece.
My 'o5 had the date it went through the assembly line right under the hood hinge.

Also if the fluid changer did not use SUDT in the transmission, it could rob performance. also make sure the brake lever is all the way down.
 
Keifer

Keifer

Senior Member
Gold Site Supporter
If your exhaust pipe, where it comes out of the muffler, has two small bolts holding it on, that's what you unbolt to get at the spark arrestor screen. Clean, or remove the screen, your choice. I put hi-temp anti seize on the bolts to make it easier to remove next time.
 
Keifer

Keifer

Senior Member
Gold Site Supporter
Opps. Nice looking machine you have. Just saying, when you trailer it, you might consider loading it backward to help protect that windshield.
 
OrangeBuggy

OrangeBuggy

Active member
Keifer said:
Opps. Nice looking machine you have. Just saying, when you trailer it, you might consider loading it backward to help protect that windshield.
Click to expand...

Agree with Keifer on machine and trailering. For me, on my trailer, I put a 2x4 across the bed so my wheels would hit it. Keeps me from banging up the RTV or trailer. Just a thought.
 
R

rgm

Member
Keifer said:
Opps. Nice looking machine you have. Just saying, when you trailer it, you might consider loading it backward to help protect that windshield.
Click to expand...

Cal chef,
Welcome to the forum and congrats on the nice looking RTV.

I agree with Kiefer and OrangeBuggy about loading it on the trailer backwards. One other thing for those with the plastic bed liners, mine went airborne on the freeway @ 65MPH. Two of the mounting screws had fallen out and two pulled thru. Busted the rear work light & bent the clips on the high-rise air filter, but the liner landed on the shoulder without damage..

Now I put a ratchet strap bedrail to bedrail when I trailer it.

Rich
 
C

calchef

New member
thanks for the feedback..
that picture was how I found it, when I brought it home that's how I trailered it.
backed in, strap over the bed, rode like a charm. a well endowed charm that is!
used a 6.5x12 landscape trailer with high side, could of used something with a little
more payload capacity. got er home all the same though.

in reference to the spark arrestor, this one has a slip on at the end of the pipe.
no removable one from the muffler.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top