My new old 240D has some issues. Please, ideas, suggestions, input needed.

splat55

Member
Well guys, let me tell you what I've found today so far. I haven't really had too much time to work on the tractor cause my Mom came in from Phoenix yesterday....and I only get to see her once or twice a year...and yesterday when I was supposed to be picking her up at the airport, well, you guys know where I was...I was picking up my tractor..so my wife and daughter had to pick her up...so today was kind of a " make up " day...if you know what I mean. At 52, I still believe a mom comes before my tractor...well, at least on the second day of having one.
Anyway, I probably should have gotten a bigger battery, but installed a 700 CA Napa. It turns it over really well.....when the solenoid kicks the starter gear out into the flywheel. Ya know, yesterday we started the tractor about 10 times, and not once did the starter fail. Today, about 7 out of 10 it's just spinnin' the gear. No biggie, I'll pull it, see if I've got some problems inside and if anything like a GM solenoind, I'll just shuffle some parts around. If it's the starter itself, then I guess I'll be trying to find one. But, now I can get it to start without starting fluid.
Tomorrow I'm going to drain the fuel. I'll also check the fuel line from the tank to the filter tomorrow. There are, what looks to me as there are 2 air filters. The one at the bottom of the intake...the " real " filter...but then at the top of the intake tube as you can see in the pics, there's a foam type unit.....pretty shot and needing replaced. Anyone know where this can be found or can I make one? But I removed that foam one, just to make sure there wasn't some kind of restriction because of that foam....no difference.
I'll pull the filter apart tomorrow and inspect...but where do ya get a new 0-ring and filter? Oh, and the filter in the fuel fill area is there, maybe a little dirty, but I'll clean it out.
And can someone tell me what the TS is on the ignition. There's a decal on the tractor that says to turn to that for about 15 seconds before starting the tractor.
Now, I'll tell you what it's doing. It seems as though it's not getting enough fuel. I have to start it each time with the hand throttle control all the way to the top....even when the engine was just run and is at operating temp. I think " California " told me that the " full forward " position should be used when cold...but when warm, " full forward" will flood his machine....but mine won't even start if not at full forward. Then, once started, I can get it down to 1000 RPM...sometimes a little lower, sometimes a little highter and let it idle. But even then, the idle will start to drop and pretty quickly die. Now, I think some of it is due to the hand throttle itself, it seems that at a certain point, it will move a little rearward by itself, causing the engine rpms to drop....but I don't think it's really the issue. I think really feel that it may be starved for fuel....which is why I only ran it for a few minutes each time I fired it today. Also, there is what looks to be a vent tube that comes off the top of the fuel tank at the fill....I followed this tube because it went under my dash... It's basically the diameter of a standard vacuum line hose. Anyway, that hose was going to nothing under my dash and right away I knew that wasn't right. And, at the same time I noticed on the first injector ( I think it's an injector) that there is a nipple...about the same size as the as the small hose/tubing that I found coming from the top of the fuel tank and going no where. So, I attached them. Not having a manual, I can't be sure of it's correct placement...but hey, there weren't a whole lot of other places it could go. I don't know if that made any difference, but I restarted the tractor, and it seemed to idle a little longer and more constantly in the 1000 RPM range. But again, it's still taking too much throttle to start it seems...
So, that's where I'm at so far.
Another thing I found today....one of the rear tires is a little low. So I thought I could put some air in it....Pulled my air hose from the garage and tried to put air in..and nothing....I pushed in on the valve...and nothing came out either...on either tire. So, can anyone tell me what's going on with that? I'm a little concerned that if I did get it running better...enough to take it for a little putt in our yard, that if I turn, it may roll the tire off the bead, although I don't think it's quite low enough for that.
Okay guys....I am ready for a ton of input from you. And again, I'll check the fuel hose from the hose to the filter tomorrow...replace if cracked. I'll pull down the filter and look at everything and clean...but don't know where to get the o-ring and filter unless that are a standard size and readily available at Napa, Autozone, etc.
Oh, something else I noticed moving the tractor today. It pops out of one of the gears...although maybe I didn't have it in all the way..but it happended a couple of times. We can get to that later...but I'd sure like an answer to one MAJOR question. The shifter...it has a bend in it...well, it's faced toward the seat of the tractor. Let me put it this way, my seats all the way back as far as it can go...and if I were to hit something with the tractor that stopped me suddenly, well, you can guess where that shifter will end up...I mean, it's only about an inch away from my n*ts when in gear. Now, this is kind of funny, but...today I put it in gear, and once my fist is around the shifter, well, I've got to be very carefull putting it in any of the rearward settings...otherwise I hit myself...Yeah, it happended. So, it just seems to me that the shifter bend should be facing toward the front of the tractor...cause man, it's dangerous facing the rear. How tough is it to turn it around. I pulled the boot, say the ball and a pin..but wasn't sure if I could just pull it apart and spin it around cause I don't know if that can be done.
Well, that's it for now....Please flood me with any and all suggestions, input, opinions, etc. I would love to get it running well enough to have to start worring about getting that low tire fixed and taking it around the property..or at least the yard. Thanks guys...
 

California

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If it's the starter itself, then I guess I'll be trying to find one. But, now I can get it to start without starting fluid.
Wow. Lots of issues.

I'll hit some, but there are some here I haven't seen on my YM240 so hopefully the cavalry will be along shortly to extend beyond what I know. The starters are crazy expensive, over $400, and there is a 'will-fit' (you need to chop and extend wires) on ebay continually for about $235. The previous owner put one of those on my YM240. So take yours to a starter/alternator shop for a rebuild if tinkering won't get that solenoid engaging cleanly. (And I think your solenoid is available separately.)

NO STARTING FLUID. I've read that on these tiny diesels it will shatter the piston rings etc. All I know is don't do it.
Tomorrow I'm going to drain the fuel. I'll also check the fuel line from the tank to the filter tomorrow.
Here's what I have for the fuel filter. Take in the old one and double-check this is a perfect match:
Fuel Yanmar # 104500-55710 = NAPA 3262 = WIX 33262

Draining the fuel is a good time to replace that 30 year old fuel line. (two segments, don't forget the one beyond the filter.)

Instructions for bleeding the fuel line, required after a filter change or out-of-fuel:

Bleed from the tank toward the pump. First open the bleeder screw on the input side of the fuel filter and let the bubbles out. Then close it and do the one on the output side of the filter. Finally the one on the pump inlet. Don't open the high pressure lines beyond the pump. Use a Phillips screwdriver, or a 10mm wrench if the bleed screws are stuck.
There are 2 air filters.
That means you have the final, 1981, 'Revision level 4' version of YM240D. That better pre-filter wasn't used on the previous US versions or on the Japan-market twin (YM2000D). (You don't need much of an air filter in a rice paddy!)

Here's a thread I wrote about air filter elements
. I assume your inner filter is this one. Don't use the NAPA 'nearly-fit', get the real thing. As I noted in that thread LMTC has a correct replica filter. Hoyetractor also sells it. I don't know if those sell the US outer pre-filter that yours has, but you can run temporarily without the outer one if your inner one looks like my photos. Or get genuine air filters from Yanmar-USA.
the filter in the fuel fill area is there, maybe a little dirty, but I'll clean it out.
Plastic screen under the fuel fill cap? I would scrub it in the sink with a brush and detergent then air dry it in the sun.

Incidentally don't screw the cap down tight. As fuel is consumed, if the lid is tight, these can pull a suction and stall, or collapse the fuel tank.
And can someone tell me what the TS is on the ignition. There's a decal on the tractor that says to turn to that for about 15 seconds before starting the tractor.
Intake manifold pre-heater for freezing weather starts. See my post in your other thread.
seems as though it's not getting enough fuel. ... won't even start if not at full forward. Then, once started, I can get it down to 1000 RPM.... then, the idle will start to drop and pretty quickly die. ...some of it is due to the hand throttle ..., it will move a little rearward by itself, causing the engine rpms to drop
Ok, I'm out of my depth here. FWIW.
1)Tighten the friction nut in the throttle linkage by your knee. There are a couple of disks with leather or something between them for friction, and an adjustment nut to vary the stiffness of the throttle linkage.
I think really it may be starved for fuel...
2) My starts after the first one of the day are instantaneous. After it's even slightly warm, it fires on the first compression stroke regardless where I set the throttle (so long as it is above Kill). Only when it is stone cold will it shove fuel vapor through unburned, and then, reducing from full throttle makes it lean enough to ignite. Your problem sounds like bad fuel or air filter, or it may be the problem that plagued my Yanmar when I bought it, *extremely* old, bad fuel.
Also, there is what looks to be a vent tube that comes off the top of the fuel tank at the fill....it went under my dash
Some know-nothing has been tinkering with it then. There is a short fuel overflow return line between injectors then from the rear injector back to the fuel tank. I put new hose on mine. If possible get tiny real fuel line (mower shop???) instead of vacuum-hose which looks the same.
rear tires ... tried to put air in..and nothing....
You need air in the tires. 14 psi down to maybe 7 psi minimum. There is a danger of rolling the tractor on a side slope if you curl under a tire, so get some air in there.
The shifter...is faced toward the seat.
Mine's faced away from the seat. See this photo:
http://www.nettractortalk.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=620&d=1194097889
 

splat55

Member
Hey California...
Thanks for all the info....you touched on just about everything. I'm going to check everything thoroughly today. Going to do and check everything you mentioned...including those friction washers. I hadn't put much thought into the fuel being bad...but for all I know it could be years old...and it only makes sense. Okay....on my way to town and will post my results this evening.
 

Mark777

Member
Great stuff California.

You can remove the friction nut, outer washers and dimple with a small punch and hammer. This extends the life for awhile but the better fix is a new friction disk.

The small fuel line that runs from the last injector towards the tank MAY routed to fill the fuel bottle first IF your tractor is equipped with Thermostart.

You may have to jack up the tractor rear and remove the valve stem valves IF someone has used tire seal fluid. The will glue shut and make it impossible to add air. Replace the valves to be sure.

The shifter has been removed and installed backwards by one of the previous owners. Remove the shift gate and remove the barrel pin in the plastic (or some are metal) ball and reverse the shift lever position and reassemble.

It's unfortunate when owners with low compression don't simply rebuild the top end instead of using starting fluid. Because of the design of these engine and their intake manifold - pre combustion chamber, they will self destruct in very little time with the use of either OR similar starting fluids. IF the damage is done the owner will have to replace the head, valves, cylinder liners, piston and rings - but only if they're lucky.

Mark
 

splat55

Member
Hey California,
I just took a look at the pic you put in your last post to show me how your shifter faces forward...I'm gonna have to make that change! And I don't know how I missed it before when I took a look at your other pics and listened to your sound clip, but your tractor looks to have the same ROPS that I have...although, mines not installed cause I don't have the parts that the ROPS goes into on the tractor. Is there anyway you can send me a pic of how your ROPS is attached...and/or, the pieces that your ROPS slides into? I'd appreciate it cause it will give me an idea of what I need to do or look for.
Thanks.
Brian
 

splat55

Member
More good stuff from you guys. Yeah, If the thermostat is that little bowl sitting fairly close to the front of the tractor, then I've got it....I'll have to take a look at it....but I did see a line running from it..I'll just have to check out where it went and make sure it's hooked up. The one that came off the tank which is the one I found not connected to anything, was definitely not long enough to go to the thermostat but the perfect in length to rear nipple on the injector closest to the rear of the tractor. Are friction disks available?
I hadn't even thought of someone putting a sealant in the tires and possibly clogging up the rear of the stems.....Hmmm, that may have to be a " tomorrow " job, but I will definitely have to check that out. Hey, can you guys tell me what pressure I should be running in the rear tires? I don't have the tire size in front of me at the moment but will get it if needed. Oh...and woohoo on being able to change the direction of the shifter. Man, just thinking of what damage that thing may cause to me had me thinking about whether or not I even wanted to drive the tractor once I got it runnin'!
Great stuff California.

You can remove the friction nut, outer washers and dimple with a small punch and hammer. This extends the life for awhile but the better fix is a new friction disk.

The small fuel line that runs from the last injector towards the tank MAY routed to fill the fuel bottle first IF your tractor is equipped with Thermostart.

You may have to jack up the tractor rear and remove the valve stem valves IF someone has used tire seal fluid. The will glue shut and make it impossible to add air. Replace the valves to be sure.
Well, I'm hoping that no damage was done by the guy using the starting fluid. It had no either in it and the intake is so long, that I'm not sure that it actually reached the pre combustion chamber. The can was new.....and full, so maybe it was starting without the fluid until he became involved with the sale. Guess we'll see as I get some of these other issues resolved. Will post a little later and hopefully I will have accomplished some of these little probs.

Brian

The shifter has been removed and installed backwards by one of the previous owners. Remove the shift gate and remove the barrel pin in the plastic (or some are metal) ball and reverse the shift lever position and reassemble.

It's unfortunate when owners with low compression don't simply rebuild the top end instead of using starting fluid. Because of the design of these engine and their intake manifold - pre combustion chamber, they will self destruct in very little time with the use of either OR similar starting fluids. IF the damage is done the owner will have to replace the head, valves, cylinder liners, piston and rings - but only if they're lucky.

Mark
 

California

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Hey California, Is there anyway you can send me a pic of how your ROPS is attached.
Get thoroughly familiar with all the documentation on this site:
http://www.fredricksequipment.com/
The install manual for the ROPS (Roll Over Protective Structure) is available for download under the Safety heading along the top of his home page.

Also their parts manual has a lot of useful diagrams.

Mark, splat,
YM240 is from back when the version1 ThermoStart fuel bottle had a single fuel hose down to the ThermoStart heater module.

The bottle might possibly have been upgraded, replaced by the version2 fuel bottle used on later Yanmars that has an input hose to refill the bottle from that injector overflow line. But I expect this tractor has the original single-hose bottle.

Splat, I'm simply a pleased owner, while Mark has owned and renovated several Yanmars so he has far more breadth of experience. Take a look at the flawless, museum quality of the ones he has shared with us in his posts! Mark is who I ask, when I don't know something.

Mark, I'm sure glad you are here!

Edit, added: here's a picture of the version1 ThermoStart system, on a different model Yanmar where the Thermostart components are clearly visible. The outer side of the heater module looks like a spark plug, while its inner side looks like a cigarette lighter element.

This picture also shows the correct routing for the injector overflow return line.

(On a later Yanmar, that return line would instead go to an input fitting on the ThermoStart fuel bottle, with a second hose from the bottle to dump excess overflow back to the main fuel tank.)
 

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OhioTC18

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splat,
That picture California posted is identical to the YM1700 and YM2000 units I've seen. You can see one hose coming off of the first injector going to the second. Then a hose going back to the tank. The thermostart has one hose from the fuel bowl and an electrical connection.
I wonder with that hose that was not connected on yours........was it dumping fuel on the engine?

Tire pressure.........? I'd try 12 lbs to start and see how that works.
 

splat55

Member
Hey Guys.....Okay, it seems I am writing here and over at MTF and getting good info in both places...so I probably will just cut and paste this over there as well.

Okay, well, I'm not sure I got much accomplished today...or, not as much as I would have liked but I'm getting there. Today I drained the tank...got out about 2 1/2 gal of fuel. The bottom of the tank was clean...to my surprise....and the little filter at the top fill was pretty clean also, but I washed it. I didn't remove the tank and wash it out only because I could see that there was no dirt or anything lurking at the bottom. I checked the fuel line coming from the tank and going to the filter.... but applied a little air through it just to make sure. Trimed the end to get a better fit at the filter. Then checked the fuel line after the filter that attaches to the injector pump. That hose was good too but trimmed it as well. Now, for the bummer....I pulled the complete filter from the block and after removing the plastic bowl, I found NO filter inside....there is supposed to be one isn't there? And, there was a bunch of crap at the bottom of the bowl. I cleaned it all out...but am worried as to what might be inside the pump or injectors. I didn't make it to town today cause Mom, wife & daughter wanted to go shopping after church..and I wasn't having any of that. And instead of going in later and picking up fresh fuel and a fuel filter, I decided to pull the starter apart. Well, the solenoid I have on the starter doesn't come apart...at least not without de-soldering some connections and I didn't want to tear it apart that bad. The starter gear " kick out " spring looked to be in good condition so I don't know if I need a solenoid or not. Are solenoids readily available for this starter and if so where can I start looking? So, after cleaning up all the connections on the solenoid, I reinstalled the solenoid on the starter and reinstalled the starter. Didn't try testing it out yet cause I've got no fuel filter installed right now cause I'm taking the whole unit to Napa tomorrow with the numbers that California posted and see if I can get a filter insert.
I didn't think it was the thing to do, turning the starter over with no fuel and open fuel lines. So, I guess it won't be until tomorrow that I can check the starter out. Another question....what is the sequence for starting or bleeding the air in the fuel lines once I have the filter back in....and all lines connected. Oh, the small diameter fuel line that runs from the rear injector to the fill area of the tank was plugged.....I don't know with what....just looked like crap. So I cleaned that hose out and trimmed the ends also. The other little line that runs between the 2 injectors was not plugged..again I trimmed the ends and reinstalled. Pics of my Thermostart setup are here as well.
Oh, and yesterday when I moved the tractor a few feet in 2.6 (not sure if that's the right ratio, but the forward position on the left) and it popped out of gear. I then noticed today what looks to be one of the shift rods, the third one, far right, come out of the trans and right up to the little tool box. Now, I'm sure this isn't right....and if I push it back in with a screw driver, it will come out again when I use the 2.6 gear selection again. I've included a pic of that as well. And I spun that shifter around so now I don't have to worry about my almonds gettin' cracked.
I also checked the site that California posted regarding the ROPS...I've taken some pics of the rops I have. It does look like the one on the website....family 4 I believe. But again, I am missing the piece that mounts to the tractor to hold the unit. Can I purchase that piece from the Fredricks Equiptment website? I didn't see it but I only looked quickly.
So guys, how am I doing and what can ya tell me. You guys are great! Thanks.
 

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splat55

Member
Hey OhioTC18,
Actually it was only connected at the top of the tank, the bottom of the tube was under the dash....so I don't think unless the tank was full it would have dumped any fuel....but, the end that would connected at the injector was plugged up as well. Fixed all that today though. I'm hoping tomorrow, among other things, that I will get a chance to jack up the rear of the tractor and try removing one of the valve stem cores to see if they are plugged. I tried to put air in and let are out yesterday, but I could do neither. We'll see tomorrow.

splat,
That picture California posted is identical to the YM1700 and YM2000 units I've seen. You can see one hose coming off of the first injector going to the second. Then a hose going back to the tank. The thermostart has one hose from the fuel bowl and an electrical connection.
I wonder with that hose that was not connected on yours........was it dumping fuel on the engine?

Tire pressure.........? I'd try 12 lbs to start and see how that works.
 

OhioTC18

Well-known member
Gold Site Supporter
Hey OhioTC18,
Actually it was only connected at the top of the tank, the bottom of the tube was under the dash....so I don't think unless the tank was full it would have dumped any fuel....but, the end that would connected at the injector was plugged up as well. Fixed all that today though. I'm hoping tomorrow, among other things, that I will get a chance to jack up the rear of the tractor and try removing one of the valve stem cores to see if they are plugged. I tried to put air in and let are out yesterday, but I could do neither. We'll see tomorrow.

My thought was...............was the injector spilling fuel. But if it was plugged too, I guess not. :thumb:
 

splat55

Member
Okay, now I understand what you were asking.....yeah, actually, after noticing that there was a nipple on the injector with nothing on it...I fired the tractor up...cause originally I thought it might be some kind of vacuum port (yeah, I know....I'm a newbie) :pat: So, as I was about to put my finger over it to see if there was any vacuum...I saw a couple of droplets of fuel fall out. Guess the previous owner, and myself, are lucky that it didn't catch fire at some point. Anyway, now I've got that issue fixed...And on to the next.
 

splat55

Member
Okay, it looks as though I forgot to mention something. Not only do I not have a filter element in the fuel filter bowl, but I guess there is a spring that should be in there as well...probably to seal the filter element to the top of the filter housing. I saw a break down of the filter on the Fredricks site...but didn't see a part # for the spring. Any ideas? Anybody got a dead or dying filter assy hanging around?
 

California

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Couple of comments:

The ThermoStart fuel bottle's dust cap is missing. That's the anti-slosh inner lid showing. The cap with its little chain is probably in the Fredericks catalog and is available from Hoyetractor. Or you might replace that bottle with the later version, that self-fills from the injector overflow hose.

I don't see the stain that should be running down the block from the disconnected overflow fitting, at the rear injector. And you said the overflow hose was plugged solid, and disconnected. Also the fuel filter was missing. I wonder if the crud that blocked the overflow line has also plugged an injector. That might cause the erratic idle you described.

That might not be a Yanmar ROPS. It's not the same design as the aftermarket one Fredericks contracted Custom Products to produce, which has no crossbar and is a single welded assembly until you get up to the hinges.
IMG_6415rROPS-LowerHalf.jpg

I put the fuel bleed instructions in a previous post.

I wonder if that late-style air filter is the common one used on Yanmars sold by Deere? You might ask NAPA for a filter for a Deere 750/850 etc and see if it looks right.
 

splat55

Member
Hey California,
Okay, that explains the little chain on the top of the motor....and I was wondering what that little lid thing was. I guess I'd better look at Fredricks for the unit. I agree with you on the possibility of crud being in the injector...or injectors. What are those little tubes for...like the one I cleared and runs back up to the tank? Oh, yeah, I went back and re-read your post with the bleeding instructions. So, if after I bleed everything and fire it up......and let's say it still runs badly and won't hold an idle....Do you think at that point I may have to look into the injectors? Have you dealt with Fredricks before? I'm a little concerned about not having that spring that fits under the filter element....Any suggestions? I don't think the filters going to do me much good without the spring.
Okay, as far as the ROPS...so you think I've got another manufacturers unit? If so....it looks like I may need some fab work.....
Oh, which air filter are you talking about that might be the same as the JD 750/850?
 

California

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What are those little tubes for...like the one I cleared and runs back up to the tank?
Injector overflow. Both my injectors dribbled down the side of the block when I bought the tractor. Replacing the small hose between injectors solved that.
it still runs badly and won't hold an idle....Do you think at that point I may have to look into the injectors?
Never had that problem. Maybe somebody who knows something should answer this one.
Have you dealt with Fredricks before?
They are a primary supplier. Stuff in their catalog is sold by LMTC and Hoyetractor(and other places), sometimes at a better price.
I'm a little concerned about not having that spring that fits under the filter element. I don't think the filters going to do me much good without the spring.
The replacement fuel bowls have a bump cast in, in place of the spring. you may have this. Or just measure the space and put in a nut or something (not too big!!!) to hold the filter up on the enclosure's nipple. Those plastic bowls crack and are an occasional replacement item. Be sure to get the bowl-to-housing o-ring if you get a fuel bowl.
Okay, as far as the ROPS...so you think I've got another manufacturers unit? If so....it looks like I may need some fab work..
That's a critical safety item, and you are in steep terrain. The hardware you have might be salvaged off a much lighter tractor. I would start over with the correct ROPS. I got mine from Hoye for about $650.
Oh, which air filter are you talking about that might be the same as the JD 750/850?
I'm not familiar with your air filter assembly. Maybe carry it into NAPA and see if the filters for a JD 750 fit that enclosure.
 

California

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I found what's left of that craigslist listing, in google:
TRACTOR - ** Only 494 Hours **1986 - Model YM240D 4WD with PTO 69.87 Cu In Engine Original Engine ** With Bucket - aka Loader AND Mower attachment
The more I look at your photos, the more I wonder if the nice little old lady really just drove this thing to church like she said. At only 18 hours/year she must not have gone to church very much.

We've learned to beware of the VN Recons, used tractors shipped to VN for "overhaul" (paint) before they arrive here.

This one is beginning to look like a good ol boy American spraycan overhaul.

That shift boot wasn't originally green, and the shifter decal in that photo is a replacement. My decal is so faded its useless.

Why would the widow turn the shifter around? (Don't go there!)

I would expect the original owner replaced the fuel filter at the first couple of 200 hour specified intervals. And I don't think 492 hours would saturate a fuel filter with enough crud to cause someone to discard it.

1986 is bogus, these were last imported in 1981. How could the little widow be so far off? She must have had some participation is spending that much money.

It's a tough tractor, under all those boo-boos. It should clean up fine. But at this point I would step back and budget a few hundred $ reserve for fundamental stuff, as a starting point.

I had similar experience on my tractor. A short term previous owner had spent a lot of money rodding out the radiator, replacing the starter, replacing the battery, hoses etc. I got the benefit of that money spent, and it still ran ragged when he gave up and put it up for sale.

I didn't know what I was doing but I got lucky. I doped the fuel with Power Service Diesel Fuel Additive and got a major improvement. So I drained the murky old fuel, replaced fuel hoses and filter, and suddenly had a very decent tractor.

The old fuel burned my eyes so bad that I think it came out of an abandoned farm tank that still had pre-1993 High Sulphur diesel. That stuff hasn't been sold for 10 years and who knows how long that batch sat in that farm tank before that. I was told this tractor was semi-retired at 10 years when the first owner sold his riding stable business and was then used only very occasionally, when someone needed its loader, so worst case might be that my actual tank of fuel may have been in it 10-20 years. Anyhow it was nasty stuff. Almost impossible to start, smoked like an old Greyhound bus going up Kyburz grade, burned my eyes terribly.

90% of my 'renovation' was simply putting in fresh fuel. Also I dis-assembled and freed up a stuck brake, did a major maintenance cycle, then eventually replaced the bashed headlights with a pair off Ebay and bought the ROPS. I was so pleased at that point that I never have gotten around to working on its appearance.

You will love yours when you have the bugs ironed out.
 

Mark777

Member
Geeze CA.

Outstanding!

I humbly bow to the wealth and depth of your knowledge of the YM240 :D.

(SHOOT! The Craigslist post has been cancelled by it's owner).
 

splat55

Member
Hey Guys,
Okay, I guess I never filled you all in on the story of the tractor....or at least what I think may be more accurate. I had been dealing with the son-in-law of the lady that was selling it. He was the one that did the posting on craigs list. Anyway, the day I picked up the tractor, I spoke with the lady that was actually selling the tractor. It was her husbands. Supposedly he'd purchased it about 10 years prior from the original owner. She stated that she didn't actually know the year of the tractor when she told her son in law to post it....I think he just guessed. But she and her husband had purchased a small ranch in Livermoore. When he got the tractor it had just been painted. She said she was told by her husband that an older gentleman about 70 had purchased it new when he was a bit younger for use on a small property. Anyway, he'd sold the ranch and no longer needed the tractor. Again..." supposedly " he hadn't used it much. He sold it freshly painted to the owner I purchased it from. Oh, and the lady told me she actually knew nothing about the tractor purchase before the day it arrived....and she was pissed about it when it did arrive cause she had told her husband " you don't work around here anyway so what would you need a tractor for?" The lady said they sold the ranch to her Son in law and daughter after about 2 years on the ranch and moved to the 5 acres and new home where I purchased the tractor. That's where I purchased the tractor. Man, what a nice place...they must have been pretty well off. 2 garages...a 2 car garage and a 3 car garage. In one of the garages there was a " Gold Wing " that looked like new....it was a 3 wheeler...with everything...she was selling it also. She'd bought it for him after he'd had one leg amputated. Anyway, they had been there for 8 years when her husband passed away. She told me he only used it to mow about 1/2 acre around the house each year before fire season. I could see the areas that he had used it for mowing and I'd guess it was less than 1/4 acre. He never installed the ROPS system and although the box/scraper that came with the tractor looked used, the rippers don't look like they have ever been in the ground. The mower looks well used. She said he got all the attachments except the mower with the tractor and he purchased the mower used. I'm pretty sure she felt sincere about the hours being accurate....at least as far as her husbands use.....but who knows about the owner before him. Yeah, it's a repaint...but a pretty good repaint except for the fact that many of the rubber parts didn't get removed or masked. Definitely not a spay can paint job. Even the fan belt has a little paint on it. I'm looking forward to cleaning it up a little and getting that paint to shine....once I've got it running decent.
Anyway, today I am going to follow Californias advice again and see if I can get the fuel filter at Napa.....and maybe they have a spring. I'm not sure I have a later style fuel bowl with the " bump " cast in.....but, there is a bump cast into the bowl at the bottom center.....so maybe I won't need the spring. Going to take the complete filter assy with me so I can test fit the element and see if I need a spring or not. I've been looking forward to getting the new fuel in, bleeding the system and going from there. Will report my progress a little later. Wish me luck.
 

Mark777

Member
Pick up some fuel conditioner...like Lucas or PowerService too. And man, you never actually notice how good this stuff is until you stop using it.

Good luck and keep us posted.

Mark
 
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