McCormick Deering 22-36

Spiffy1

Member
I've been posting about this one on YTforum, but thinking about uploading some pictures there I realized you guys might be interested too.

It's a 1929 (I think, else newer) 15-30 [AKA 22-36 due to updates in 29 through 34]; much like one I have but on rubber. A neighbor asked if I'd have time to undo 10 years of weather topped with 20 more hiding in a cattle shed.

I had already took off the hood and valve cover before snapping pictures.

Maybe one or two more tonight, but I need to get to bed! :starbucks::pat:
 

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Spiffy1

Member
I didn't even need to get the other nut (one was gone) off the preheat selector to know what I was going to find. Almost took the picture too late, but caught myself.... it was previously packed full! :eek:

The more detailed photos are better, but while I don't think mice care where they urinate, I'm half certain #1 was considered the bathroom in Rodent Condo ala Manifold. :puke1:Not that the others didn't have a fair share of rain, mouse pee, or both too.

A bit of a riddle for y'all though pretty obvious after just a bit of thinking, but I did a double take when I pulled the valve cover:

This thing has been stuck for 20years or more [and still is, but I plan to get the best of it] but ran fine before (except a governor that went nuts)
#1 exhaust stuck closed (but not sealing) while all but one intake stuck open. Six open valves! More than two open valves in a stuck engine?
 

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Spiffy1

Member
I know I know; worthless without pictures, but a few weeks ago I think I finally compiled all the parts I needed [seemed like every part I took off needed to be reworked or replaced, then putting it back together kept finding things!] yet, I haven't resized many pictures.

Still decapitated, but the engine is back in the bathtub [the tractor's "uniframe" not our bathroom which would provoke some strange looks from my wife: for your own safety nothing bigger than a carburator gets cleaned up in the house; safer yet, forget the carb too].

So far it has
All the large castings "boiled out" (this makes clean up and assembly much nicer!) in town
New main bearings [these are ball, else it'd been rote]; a bit of a bugger to press these on the crank, but I heated them to about 250F first so not too bad
Crank ground [I didn't think IHC did Tocco journal in '29, but the shop said it was HARD]
New used rods with likely 75% babbit instead of 20% and missing chunks too on 2&3; about 60% equivalant on the shim stack [plastigaged to .002-3] with .005 off the crank.
New seals on both ends, and several gaskets I needed to make along with a bunch of new ones and NOS
New pilot bearing
New clutch facings; pressure plate completely disassembled to remove mouse fluff and rusty scale [likely result of mouse pee]
Clutch arms tuned to throwout [recommend this is done on the bench, in retrospect I'd either agree or cut larger reliefs into the pressure plate/spring housing as well as wrench flats on the female side of the "studs"]; linkage tuned and new pedal spring - several points in the linkage should get a date with the welder and built up, but that can be done when it has it's own power again.
Flywheel face cleaned and scale [like pressure plate face] removed
New throwout grease-tube [a bugger to put in without the original swivel fitting!]
Steering arms removed (.002 press fit :eek:) and bushings added; new pins made (I really need a mill and lathe here, but the VoTech in town liked the project)
New manifold water injectors being made at the Votech too
10 bolts/studs removed (litterally drilled and pealed out thread by thread; neither straight nor spiral screw extractor would budge a one, so after peeling enough thread for a tap to find the cast and bite the grade8? instead that pushed it out without too much damage) from manifold. A can of oven cleaner, a can of carb cleaner [the former much more effective, but I didn't want residue left behind] and much elbow grease later [on top of much to disassemble the selector plates in the first place], and most of 50 whoknowshowmany years of carbon deposit removed from intake.
3 NOS sleeves/pistons with weird mix of preserving lube [cosmoline perhaps] and surface rust] nearly cleaned up - the guy selling never recieved the 4th several years ago; two sets of oringal sleeves/pistons only about .010 on the sleeve, I'm still debate which of the set and change everytime I look - ready for new rings.
Head redone, .010 off block face and manifold face, 3 new valves, 8 new guides!
Cam shaft, bearings, lifters and gears, cleaned up and well coated in assembly lube
Oil pump de-"slimed"
Oil filter too (anyone ever see a Purolator with a T-Handle on top to pull a plunger inside the element? I think I have somewhere, but not on one I've ever had apart)
Oil Lines blown out
Broken bolts on housings drilled and retapped.
A little TLC on the impulse, and file on the points, the mag has pretty good spark - not sure how it looks at engine rpms, but have a rebuilt one located.

Being only a month or so early of changes for 1930 [Velumoid instead of cork on the bellhousing etc.) , I managed several times to make gaskets to the wrong thickness (not quite that anal to redo such things if they work fine, but this messes up mounting other things later) and have to disassemble, remake, reassemble - you'd think I'd learn, but this skull is thick.

Sleeves need to go in now, and pistons too, but shimming the rods with it sideways was sure nice; the ground crank [several thou out of round] sure made it nice to plastigage too. Next is the governor, which also has the mag drive shaft and support base. I really should have found a new bushing for it, but it didn't look horible and not to much stress is applied there.

Hopefully a bit less time between this and the next update - it looks like Mith built a tractor from scratch while I was rebuilding this one! :pat:
 
Man sounds neat. I guess I have never seen one. How about a pic, yes even tore apart. I have operated some old Molines as a kid. wish I had one of them now.
 

Spiffy1

Member
I haven't resized any lately, but I had a few on photobucket worth a try.

Also, a good depiction is on this page.

Leftside.jpg


DateCode.jpg


Diesel.jpg


Filter.jpg
 

Spiffy1

Member
Man sounds neat. I guess I have never seen one. How about a pic, yes even tore apart. I have operated some old Molines as a kid. wish I had one of them now.

I don't have any electronic pictures handy, but I have a bit of a softspot for the Molines too. My dad ran IH, but my grandpa and great-grandpa were MM. From the Z to probably the U, they had odd governors IMHO; wouldn't kick in until right after you got through the tough spot! Still enough stroke for a little lugging [though not like the 22-36 here - I read someone dynoed70HP lugging [should only be 36 at governor 1050RPM] unmodified I think, or a comparable D JD, etc] power, so I don't recall killing one though. Fast road gears too! Gotta love a UDLX, but not on my budget!
 
I ran several different 21-32 Molines. All were on rubber but some had came on steel. Matter a fact I remember dad and the man he worked for converting one.
 

Spiffy1

Member
Ahhh, a few years earlier than the ones I know and standard rather than rowcrop.

I think they ran a Waukesha engine instead of the MM, but don't quote me on that. Hand operated clutch was the same I think, but again don't quote me.
 
I think this was a Moline. Too many years ago to be sure. I know they sat in a saddle like the one on yours. They rebuilt the motors and got more HP and put them on propane.
 

California

Super Moderator
Staff member
Site Supporter
Is this the same model?


P1190945-005.jpg


This is in a set of photos I took when Vin (Daedong), a ForumsForums member, visited from Australia.

Here's the set. Vin's visit, September 2008.

There's a closer picture of this MM in the set.

It's located north of Cazadero in Northern California.
 

Spiffy1

Member
Howdy California!

I believe I recall seeing you post that one on FF, but I'm not sure if I identified it right.

Looking at the one with Vin on it [in the rest of the set], I'm pretty sure you have an I-12 [or 14, same engine with a few RPMs more], the industrial version of the Farmall F-12. The vintage would be 1930s.
 

Spiffy1

Member
O-12 is possible too; but, as pictured, the front wheels looked more to me like an option for industrial than orchard. The distinctions though, without opening a book are a bit out of my knowledge base.
 

California

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Staff member
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I went back and looked at more of my original photos (not online). The radiator says McCormick Deering and the chassis id plate is near illegible but has 'International Harvester' as the largest text.

I suppose that doesn't narrow it down much.
 
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Spiffy1

Member
I went back and looked at more of my original photos (not online). The radiator says McCormick Deering and the chassis id plate is near illegible but has 'International Harvester' as the largest text.

I suppose that doesn't narrow it down much.

AFAIK, IHC didn't use the International label [and there I'm talking hood stencils not ID plate, probably identical among W/I/O/Fairway 12/14, and likely the Farmall F-12/14 too] for industrial versions vs. McCormick for farming oriented F-series and standard tread versions thereof.

That reminds me, W-12 or 14 would be the obvious choice [essentially options, especially in the wheels and tin-work made the distintions among W/I/O/Fairway; still same engine as F-12], but those front wheels [or the way the picture makes them look to me] just keep messing with my head for it not to have been more specific.
 

ATURTLE101

New member
McCormick Deering 22-36 For Sale

I have a McCormick Deering 15-30 for sale, what a good price to be asking for it. It was running about 12 years ago before it was drained and parked.
Tractor no. TG 110569 M
 

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Spiffy1

Member
Thanks for the great pictures! :thumb:

If you didn't already know, that is a midyear 1929 "22-36" 15-30: the former designation is what many farmers called them to distinguish the "new 15-30" from those before '29. About half of the "new 15-30s" were built this year and about 1/3 total 15-30s were the upgraded [4 3/4 bore vs. 4 1/2, changes to the rear-end and few other minor changes + a few changes scattered throughout both versions] version.

The 15-30s in general are slightly caught between the more valuable older tractors and the newer letter series [like Hs] which can bring more than they're worth because they hit a current generation of collectors and still find occasionally light duty farm use too. Also, the 10-20s had more made and fit a trailer easier so I think are traded a bit more. However, they're a neat tractor and aren't impossible to find parts for so the 15-30s are among my favorites, and perhaps even "favorite" tractor [though I only have 1 and haven't even finished it; have my neighbors all ready except some tin work that hasn't come back yet].

One more discliamer, these seem to vary in price a bit by area; however you have an excellant speciman.

If the hood and side curtains are straight, they alone can bring more than some halfway complete tractors minus them. If the fenders are straight, or easily repairable, that's another $500 in your favor.

You have the original manifold [and it looks solid, if mice didn't do nasty things inside], with good looking water bowl and injectors too. You also have the original governor. Neither generally adds or subtracts value as the aftermarkets in both cases are just as desirable to some, but the complete combination you have, adds some intangiable value. An E4A mag [the pictures didn't show what mag], would complete the orginal features, but even with a blue spark that coil might need to be rebuilt soon for the roughly cost of a mag, doesn't exactly add too the value other than that of an overall original tractor.

Same with steel vs rubber, but your steel looks excellant [again if the ground isn't hiding areas it rusted through], so probably add a few hundred.

If it's loose in the engine and clutch, especially if you can get it running easy [caution here, though, these carbs need the exact combination of force and finese to disassemable - and I wouldn't start it without checking the float - modern gas, on top of the last 12 years drying out, will disintegrate it, and you'll have a bit of a mess unless you changed it to brass last you ran it], you'll really have some value, as it's easy to stick several thousand into an unknown engine.

I'd think $2000 isn't a bad goal, though if you can get it running or prove it has good compression et al [unless those lugs were replaced or it seen a lot of belt work, I'm thinking pretty low hours on it!] someone looking for a straight & complete tractor to work with might pay much more, maybe even double. On the other hand, stuck tractors probably get spooky around $1000 - except the completeness of yours brings it to at least $1500 if not over $2000 anyway.

That's my best guess, and depending upon what's around your area, I may be way off; if not, start dickering around $3000 [more if you're an optimist, or I missed something neat] and make him promise to post some pictures here once it's running!
 
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