RTV x1100c with sfsspecialties turbo help needed

dtreid

Active member
New to me rtv x1100c came with a sfsspecialties turbo kit installed.
Performance is sluggish at best and a low to moderate rpms the engine vibrates significantly. With the fuel shutoff disconnected, the engine comperssions sound very even. Engine starts very well.
I'm wondering if the vibration and performance issues could be realated to fuel pump adjustments suggested by sfsspecialties in the install manual.

Can anyone shed any light on the matter?
 

dtreid

Active member
Turbo install manual recommends adjustment of screws in first two pics.
Another site recommended turning up screw under cover on last pic, but the manual doesn’t mention anything about this one.

Can anyone shed any light on the matter?
Thanks
 

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aurthuritis

Well-known member
Site Supporter
have you plumed a pressure gauge into the intake manifold? so you can read the boost pressure? Has the kit been installed for a very long time or is this the first running? the screw under the tamper proof cover in your third pic is the fuel rack limit screw. that screw should give it a little more fuel.
 

dtreid

Active member
It's been on the machine for 1000hrs. I haven't put a boost gauge on yet.

My bigger concern at the moment is the shaking at low to moderate rpm....previous owner said it had done that for him.
It's bad enough that it's uncomfortable to drive at anything but high rpms.

Could it be a timing issue? I got the swag turbo install manual, and they recommend removing a timing shim from the fuel pump and rotating the pump delivery plates counter-clockwiswe. The sfsspecialties manual doesn't say anything about doing this.
 

aurthuritis

Well-known member
Site Supporter
Thanks. it helps to know that it has done this since the first install. yes removing or adding shims under the pump adjusts the timing. turning the plates shouldn't matter i think. i would try to get as much info from the PO or installer to see just what was done. and then i would try adjusting the timing a little by adding a shim. does it smoke or have a wet exhaust???

i need to back up a little and ask at what rpm does it idle? if theses little Kubotas are adjusted to a low idle they will shake like a paint mixer.
 
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dtreid

Active member
These are the directions I’m assuming they followed. Idle isn’t set any lower than another machine I have. Shaking is very noticable up to around 2000rpm.
 

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aurthuritis

Well-known member
Site Supporter
sorry. i can't read those or get my computer to rite them and enlarge them. can you put them in PDF?
 
The fuel injection timing (the only engine timing on a diesel) should not be the source of vibration unless it is grossly mis-adjusted and causing misfire. More advanced injection timing will increase power, reduce smoke, but greatly increase nitric oxide emissions. It should also reduce the chance of misfire. Changes in injection timing are limited by the injection cam shape.

If one of the cylinders is not firing correctly, the 3-cylinder engine would run roughly and with poor power. Increasing the speed might help smooth the vibration out. Normally misfires are easily seen in an instrumented research engine by the low exhaust gas temperature measured just outside the exhaust valve. This is normally measured by a thermocouple in the exhaust of each cylinder, but this would require some effort for a garage mechanic. I wonder about putting a thermocouple on the outside of the exhaust header close to the block. That should be straightforward, just requiring good thermal contact between the thermocouple and the header. Then you could compare the exhaust manifold temperatures for reasonable balance.
 

dtreid

Active member
Could be be valves out of adjustment? I haven't checked them yet. Engine turning over with the starter sounds like even compression to me. It sounds great when running at all rpms, just shakes.

Here are the instructions for turbo install from sfs:


1. Raise bed and lower cylinder stop.
2. Remove exhaust heat shield.
3. Cut exhaust pipe 2’’ from muffler inlet. See fig 1
4. Remove pipe from manifold.
5. Install bushing over muffler inlet pipe. See fig 1
6. Locate and remove rubber plug at the base of the block, located on drivers side to the rear of oil filter. See fig 3
7. Remove oil pressure sensor, install T fitting, then reinstall sensor. See fig 3 & 4
8. Install turbo adapter manifold using new gasket and original hardware. See fig 5
9. Remove and discard engine lift bracket. See Fig 2
10. Install turbo using three 8x25 SHCS. See fig 6
11. Install oil drain hose and brass fitting into block where plug was removed, make sure that hose has no low spots. (Drain hose needs to be a continuous downward slope). See fig 7
12. Attach braided oil pressure line to T fitting, check that both ends are tight. See fig 7
13. Locate and remove electric stop solenoid on rear of injection pump housing. See Fig 8
14. Locate rubber coated plug for intermediate governor screw below fuel stop solenoid remove and discard plug. See Fig. 9
15. Carefully loosen jam nut without moving screw, back out screw 2-1/2 turns and tighten jam nut, install new 6mm copper washer and acorn nut being careful not to change adjustment. The rubber plug is no longer needed after installation of the copper washer and acorn nut. See Fig 10 and 11
16. Reinstall solenoid being careful not to force plunger into governor linkage. Hold solenoid so that it is lined up with mounting holes and push against light spring pressure until it is flat against housing. While holding solenoid in position, turn bolts in finger tight to keep solenoid from moving, then tighten bolts.
17. Locate full load adjusting screw on governor housing near injection pump. See Fig 12
18. On 2016 and older units: Use Vise-Grip pliers to clamp tamper proof sleeve over nuts. Turn pliers to break screw loose. Remove screw assembly with fingers. Discard sleeve. See Fig 13
On 2017 and newer units: Using a Torx #27 bit socket, drive socket through the top of the tamper proof sleeve until it gets solid, approximately 3/16’’ deep, turn the nut or screw out of the block. Remove screw, 2 copper washers, and jam nut from assembly. Reassemble using new larger copper washers and acorn nut provided, assemble as shown. See fig 14
19. Full load screw adjustment differs depending on altitude and machining tolerances. Final adjustment may take several attempts depending on power needs, transmission efficiency and acceptable smoke levels. If no adjustment is made, turbo will be virtually ineffective. Remember the longer the screw adjustment is the lower fuel delivery and the shorter the screw adjustment is the higher fuel delivery.
20. Adjust screw length. Measure from the end of the screw to the bottom of the copper washer. See fig 14 & 15. A good starting measurement is .650’’. Be careful not to lose large copper washer while removing and installing screw assembly. Jam nuts together securely so adjustment does not change when installing and removing screw assembly.
21. Locate wire harness. Remove and relocate to opposite side of bracket. See fig 16
22. Remove hose from intake.
23. Install 90 boost pipe using 90 1 ½ -1 ¾ reducer hose and 1 ½ x 2 ½ coupler hose , locate pipe so that it is not contacting valve cover or brackets, tighten hose clamps. See fig 17
24. Install 1 ¾ curved hose on to intake side of the turbo, then install 1 ¾ straight pipe into curved hose and the other end into the factory intake hose. See fig 18
25. Position hose as shown in figure 19 and install zip tie.
26. Install exhaust flex pipe onto muffler. See fig 20
27. Install exhaust pipe using 4-8mx20 flange bolts, Install clamps onto exhaust flex pipe. See fig 20
28. x1100 only- install bracket to hold radiator hose and cover flap away from exhaust. See fig 21
29. Remove crankcase vent hose from valve cover and intake manifold. See fig 22
30. Remove PCV cover plate (fig 22), then remove steel retainer with spring from diaphragm (Fig 23), reassemble using diaphragm and cover only.
31. Install cap plug and clamp on manifold and install hose on valve cover nipple and direct to ground. See fig 24
32. Double check that all clamps and fasteners are tight, inspect cables and linkages for obstruction.
33. Cut heat shield as shown and reinstall. See fig 25



TRANSMISSION OPTIMIZATION ADJUSTMENT
1. Remove rear transmission guard by removing three bolts on each side. See fig 26
2. Find tamper proof sleeve located below the transmission oil filter. See fig 27
3. Using Vice-Grip pliers, remove and discard tamper proof sleeve.
4. Located under the tamper proof sleeve is the transmission charge pressure adjustment screw.
5. Loosen jam nut without moving screw, turn screw in 1 - 2 turns and tighten jam nut.
6. Further adjustment may be necessary after being test driven. Turning screw in farther will cause the transmission to be more aggressive, while backing screw out will cause the transmission to be less aggressive.
7. If the engine is under too much load at initial acceleration then the screw will need to be backed out farther. (note that transmission oil temperature will significantly affect transmission performance)
8. After you are satisfied with the way that the transmission is performing, reinstall rear transmission guard.

TRANSMISSION/THROTTLE LINKAGE ADJUSTMENT
1. Locate rockshaft with engine throttle cable and accelerator pedal cable attached. See fig 28
2. Rotate rockshaft forward until it bottoms out, at this point the engine throttle cable should be just getting tight without keeping the rockshaft from bottoming out. See fig 29
3. Adjust engine throttle cable as needed.
4. Adjust foot pedal bolt to stop pedal as cable begins to get tight. See fig 30
 

foxalaska

Active member
Could be a balance issue. Flywheels sometimes have weights attached(generally a crappy spot weld) for balance.
 

VA1100

Member
Is there any chance that there is air in one of the fuel lines? I installed the SWAG turbo kit on my X1100C, the instructions were a little different, I had to pull the injection pump and remove a shim to change the pump timing. When I started it up I had to bleed the lines twice, the first time to get it to start, and then a second time to get it to run smooth, only one line had air in it the second time. I probably didn’t leave the lines cracked long enough initially. It would be a pretty easy thing to check.
Pete
 

aurthuritis

Well-known member
Site Supporter
7. If the engine is under too much load at initial acceleration then the screw will need to be backed out farther. (note that transmission oil temperature will significantly affect transmission performance)

could be part of the problem? try adjusting it back out and see what happens. always mark and count revolutions.
 

dtreid

Active member
Figured out the vibration. Looks like when the dealer changed the front crank seal 3 years ago they put the front pully on 180 degrees out! Hopefully no engine damage.

Nice and smooth now though.
 

shinnery

Active member
I would have believed that they were keyed or something that that was not possible (180 out). I can see something like that causing a vibration or worse.
Bryce
 

foxalaska

Active member
Figured out the vibration. Looks like when the dealer changed the front crank seal 3 years ago they put the front pully on 180 degrees out! Hopefully no engine damage.

Nice and smooth now though.

Fantastic. I suspected you had a balance problem.
 

geohorn

Well-known member
SUPER Site Supporter
Which dealer?

THIS is the sort of info that can be truly helpful to other users.
 
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