Changing the Front Boots on RTV900

sjstub

New member
A-Arm

Bordercollie,
thanks for the prompt reply. Here's what I did...After much deliberation, I took the CV apart, thinking that I might have made a mistake in assembly (x2!)...yes, twice! Once I convinced myself that it was put together properly, I set it back in but this time gave it a slight twist and pushed in on it and...BINGO!...the arm swung up into place w/minimal coaxing. That only took a day and a half! It's a good thing that I'm retired. I never would have had the time to do it when I worked. Anyway, thanks again for the illustrations...they were very helpful.
SJStub
 

bordercollie

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I am glad things clicked into place. That is sure a great feeling isn't it. :) I went on and changed out the sudt in the cases too while I had the tires off and also the differential . Keep your eye on the end of the shaft with the 3 bolts to make sure you don't have a leak where the o ring is- in case it moved out of place as you carefully tightened the aluminum case cover's 3 bolts. I alternated the tightening just like with a tire changing. I have a few more pictures I will try and post when I dig them out of picasa. And don't feel bad about double checking. On the first half shaft, I also double checked it after I had put the boots on but before it was installed- I just had to make sure that snap ring on the end of the shaft was tight because the second half shaft snap ring was ready to fall off when I took the shaft out of the RTV. Talking about a miracle. The first one was fine but I had to make sure . I also put them on just as they came off - I didn't swap them- Congratulations on your great job!! bordercollie
 

clueless

Member
guess what im going to be doing in the next 3 days.. hmm, 3 boots! they suprsed me with 2 more used ones out of north carolina. has shaw on the decals on the side.
 

bordercollie

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At least it is an easy job. See the post on Peanuts Stick Stoppers- those vehicles absolutely need them and they would save the company $$. bordercollie
 

Peanut

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i have been owning utv's sinse late 03 and only have had one boot punchured that was on my hpx and i had ripped the stock plastic boot guard off in the swamp and tore the boot on the way out.sisne then i make sure to keep them protected and something else i do is atleast one time a month i soak them down with armorall it keeps the rubber plyable and i have never had a boot dry rot on me.also after you wash the utv spray every hose and boot with it .i use it on my whole body of the rhino it leaves a good oily under coating .when i go mud riding the mud doesn't stick and most times i can just use a regular garden hose to clean it.you can also use son-of-a-gun tire foam and just spray the whole utv down with it i use both when i i have them but mainly armorall.if i can help you with a set of stickstoppers let me know .they will take a week or so to build because i only make them to order i don't make them in bulk it kinda keeps things personal that way when i work on a set just for one member at a time.i have done this ever sinse i built two sets for some members and when i shipped them out one guy got two rights and the other guy got two lefts.lmao. i think dargo go the lefts and i don't remember the other members name .so it's best to just make them one set at a time.
 

TWO GUNS

Senior Member
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have done this ever sinse i built two sets for some members and when i shipped them out one guy got two rights and the other guy got two lefts.lmao. i think dargo go the lefts and i don't remember the other members name .so it's best to just make them one set at a time.


..... oh yes, I still remember that Peanut !!!

Funny how things in life get messed up so dern easy >>>>
 

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pepr

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Twoguns, I appreciate the chuckle created by the Duckator you posted. Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

Dieselman

New member
Hi bordercollie,
I am repairing/servicing an rtv for a friend. I did a search and joined to see your pics and get info not knowing how to replace front cv boots.
Thanks for taking the time to post and direct it really helped.

Got one side done and waiting for 2 more boots ordered. They had the other 2 in stock.
It may help to add my 2 cents.
This is a 2010 model. Maybe the A arms are different but I was able to slip a floor jack under the A arm (after ball joint and steering removed) and lift it about an inch that gave just enough room to get the 3 bolt flange off the front diff. without removing the A arm.
Will be checking the front drive/rattle issues next.

Thanks,
Dieselman
 

bordercollie

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Hi Dieselman. I am glad that you had success ! That was the first time I had ever done any boots and learned as I went and used an impact wrench on those A arm bolts. I am glad you posted about the shortcut . It would be easy to try it and save time for those without an impact wrench. Thank You and have a great time on that RTV before you give it back to the owner and you will fall in love with it and want one too :) .
On that drive shaft rattle, I cut a small piece of rubber heater hose (the black kind like on spray rigs) , cut it through down one side so it looked like a C and put it around the drive shaft where it meets the carrier bearing, I made the width just so it could clamp around the shaft and snug up firmly against the shaft yoke and the bearing front without stressing the bearing. Then held it in place with a small cable tie. That quieted the floppy rattle somewhat yet would allow the cable tie to break if I had it wrong and too much pressure there. I sold that machine but I think it was less than 2 " of hose. The machine was much quieter than it had been. My carrier bearing was in good shape. Good Luck ! :) bordercollie
 

Dieselman

New member
Thanks bordercollie,
I wrench on all kinds of stuff. Have a J.D. trackloader and a wood shredder.
I too had never done any c.v. boots. If it were not for your pics I would have lost many hours. You gave me the ammo I needed. Thanks again.
As far as falling in love with the rvt I already have. My friend has 700 acres and we have been cutting black walnut for firewood. Thats how this started. If you load it 2.5 feet high its right at a 1/4 of a cord. Were out a ways , and its real handy.

I felt like I owed you the A arm tip. Great tip on the driveline. While I was finding this site the other day I stumbled upon another ,I should have saved it but here is what I remember.

The pinned yokes were removed ,tapped with a 5/16 #8 thread for set screws.
The inside spline is countersunk already so they snug it up nice.
The (slippers) were done exactly how you said but this guy ground out a washer to bottom out on the shaft and pinched the rubber to it, to keep preload on the yoke.

It had a black background and was impressive,like a website,disclaimers and all.

Thanks again,hope this helped.
Dieselman
 

bordercollie

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Dieselman, that is probably the fix by cornju or some similar spelling. He also has instructions for installing the hydraulic cylinder on the RTV . I did that shaft fix but it gradually developed a rattle because I use the heck out of mine- but the avg person would most likely benefit from it if the u joints weren't already worn out. The 2011 models have the improved driveshaft in a single piece, no carrier bearing, and they have added rubber boots to each end of the shaft. There is a modified one to retro fit the early models but it is pricy. bordercollie

edit add link for drive shaft "fix" http://www.cornejo.net/rtv900/DriveShaftRattleFix.htm
 
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farmgal

New member
Thanks to bordercollie for some great instructions! Kubota wanted to sell the whole axle for $400 when only the inner boot needed to be replaced. ($20 in parts). Now putting it all back together and wondered if there is a specific torque for the 3 bolts going into the aluminum case cover.
 

bordercollie

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Hi Farmgal. Thanks, I try. I almost had fun doing this project back then.- The most fun ever was the radiator fan replacement with an aftermarket. That was no sweat. The hardest because they were stuck, was the rear axles/ujoints.
I would alternate the tightening of them like on a wheel till they are snug. and then go from there. I see there is a listed torque for the different sized bolts and the grade of the bolts in the owner's manual I have . For aluminum, it depends on the grade and size of the bolt.My manual has them listed on page G-9. I just remember making a mental note of how tight they were when I removed them and tried to duplicate that while being careful around that aluminum. I don't see the specs actually listed with the boot info but that may be in the new manuals- mine is old. Do make sure the snap rings aren't worn . One of mine was really thin. Let us know if you can't get that info from your manual and then if there are any numbers stamped on those bolts/what size it is like 6mm etc and we will dig it up. bordercollie
 

Mark.Sibole

Well-known member
JUst my luck to find this post lol.I think i may know some of you.If luck would have it i just ripped the outside boot today while doing wood &^(*&%*%^*%^%
This post will help me fix my mess.Thanks Bordercollie.
1 fast question as i havnt really looked into it yet how far do you need to tear things down to just replace the outside boot and is there anything else i need to order or replace while i have it apart???
 

Mark.Sibole

Well-known member
Bordercollie if you have the time drop me a PM or e mail on the boots.I think i have the link on ebay but want to be sure and have a few dumb questions lol imm pm you my e mail addy
 

bordercollie

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Hey Mark. I was just fixing to get an amber alert going for ya. Hadn't seen you in a while. I just got back from a hard 40 hr trip to Ark to work on the house. I will sure get back with you tonight. collie
 

Mark.Sibole

Well-known member
LOL surprised to hear anyone missing my old butt lol.
Been a ruff summer MS wise.Im still doing fire wood which should have been done months ago but im so far behind its unreal. while doing my weekly inspections i noticed some grease on the boot and checked it and its apart at the seam so i dont know if its from wear, age or I caught a twig.Either way its open and i need to get it fixed asap.I have a few wraps of gorilla tape around it to keep the dirt and gunk out in hopes i wont have to replace nothing but the boot.Im not moving as fast as i was early in the spring so im hoping this isnt gunna be a long painfull job.I hope your trip went well and all is ok with you and the family.
Thanks for the help.

Regards
Your Friend up here in Michigan
 

bordercollie

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I sent ya a message Mark. I'm sorry to hear of the rough summer.
On the boots, I can't remember where I got mine but this place looks familiar : http://www.americancvstore.com/servlet/the-ATV-Parts-cln-KUBOTA/Categories - not sure though. I remember not buying any special tool but just using a pair of pliers to put the bands on with and being able to get those bands at the auto parts store-- so mine didn't come with the bands. Some boots out there are real thing though so "just be careful" to any of ya'll ordering them. Those "slip over with a funnel" brand are really too "flexible"... for me and my work detail.
I hope the job goes like silk for you Friend. bordercollie
 
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