Starting issues got me stumped!

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avantiguy

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If I hear a click from the solenoid, I still jump it to be sure it's not the problem. There are a number of ways to jump it but my legal team suggests I not to mention them here.:mrgreen:

Easier to check first than to replace the starter and then find out it's the solenoid.
 
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aurthuritis

Well-known member
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bczoom said:
I have a similar issue with one of my ATV's. If the solenoid clicks, that normally means it is good. If no click, bad or loose wiring to the solenoid.

Mine clicks but wouldn't turn over. The tapping on the starter has worked every time to get it running. I bought a new starter but it's 0° outside so I'm not replacing it until it goes above freezing.
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if the solenoid clicks but the starter doesn't urn it means the magnet in the solenoid is working but either the disc in the solenoid is carboned or corroded up not passing the volts to the motor or the brushes in the motor are stuck. that is why a sharp rap sometimes works. you can short 12 volts direct to the motor terminal to see if the motor will spin. if this is the case then your solenoid needs replaced or the contact needs cleaned. do so with the machine in neutral of course.
 
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aurthuritis

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starters are real easy to rebuild and generally not worn out. most common problems are stuck rusted brush carrier or a worn out solenoid. solenoids can be cleaned and the contact disc sanded clean but that fix rarely lasts very long. the old part stores used to carry brushes and bushings for starter motors and some would even turn an armature for you if needed. we used to rebuild starters many many times until an armature went bad and needed rewound.
 
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bczoom

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aurthuritis said:
if the solenoid clicks but the starter doesn't urn it means the magnet in the solenoid is working but either the disc in the solenoid is carboned or corroded up not passing the volts to the motor or the brushes in the motor are stuck. that is why a sharp rap sometimes works. you can short 12 volts direct to the motor terminal to see if the motor will spin. if this is the case then your solenoid needs replaced or the contact needs cleaned. do so with the machine in neutral of course.
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I just used an internet search for my ATV and the symptoms (after towing the ATV home behind the RTV). I checked/cleaned all connections, did voltage tests and other basic things. Then read the issue is common for this ATV and to rap on the starter. Did that and it fired right up. Every occurrence of the issue, I just tap on the starter and it fires right up. They said the starter is known for this issue and to just replace it. Bought one on Amazon for under $70 so I'm just going with this route.
 
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aurthuritis

Well-known member
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yes the days of rebuilding your own are gone,i just get a reman and turn in my core. the new gear reduction starters are sooo small and powerfull it is amazing
 
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yeehaw48

New member
Well got home from church and the temp had warmed up to 36 deg and tried to start the Kubota to my surprise it fired rite off, next cleaned out a spot in the garage and put it on ramps and jack stands from what I see from the ground would be the best way to get to the starter unless someone knows a better way. I will check the bell housing at this time also.
 
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yeehaw48

New member
Started to remove starter, pulled the bell housing plug and a pretty fair amount of water ran out. Placed a heater under the motor and warmed some more, left drain plug out and let drain for a few days. While it's draining I will change the oil and filter while I wait. The utv started fine again.
 
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VA1100

Member
There is a black plastic plug in the top of the bell housing, it is between the exhaust pipe and the motor mount in the top middle of the engine / transmission mount. I pulled mine out and sprayed a water displaced like WD40 in it while the engine was running and let the excess water/residue drain out the bottom. I haven’t pulled my drain plug since I drilled a hole in it, but also haven’t had any starting issues so far this winter.
Pete
 
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CKing

Active member
So water in the bell housing, a much cheaper problem to fix! So I have never heard of this problem in a tractor, is it just condensation? Or is the machine have a way for rain to get in?
 
foxalaska

foxalaska

Active member
put some "heat" or methanol in after you get the engine warm and the water won't freeze again. The clearance between the starter ring gear and housing is very small. Doesn't take much water to freeze the gear to the housing.
 
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yeehaw48

New member
VA1100 said:
There is a black plastic plug in the top of the bell housing, it is between the exhaust pipe and the motor mount in the top middle of the engine / transmission mount. I pulled mine out and sprayed a water displaced like WD40 in it while the engine was running and let the excess water/residue drain out the bottom. I haven’t pulled my drain plug since I drilled a hole in it, but also haven’t had any starting issues so far this winter.
Pete
Click to expand...

followed your advice and sprayed wd 40 in and captured the results, it was rusty colored. After allowing it to run and somewhat reach temperature and shut it down the bell housing felt really warm too me. I wonder if the water is coming from condensation from warm metal and cold air, hence the reason for the drain plug??? I notice nothing that would allow water into the bell housing even my starter had silicon sealing it. Is this something that needs to be done during the winter so often???
 
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VA1100

Member
Yeehaw48, The dealer told me they thought it was coming from condensation, which I believe is correct. I seldom run through any water, I try to go around the mud holes, it cuts down on the clean up time. I thought I might have gotten water in around the black plug in the top, but afterwards I don’t believe I did. I was looking for some kind of vent to put in the top that would allow air to circulate, but would keep water out. I also looked for a check valve to replace the drain plug with, but clearance was an issue between the bell housing and the skid plate. I finally just drilled a small hole in the plug to let it drain. When I get a chance I’m going to take Aurthuritis’s advice a put a cotter pin in it to keep it from getting clogged up. Glad you got it going without a lot of expense and have located the problem.
Pete
 
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yeehaw48

New member
va1100
-- Rite now I'm thinking of a holesaw to cut out a hole in the skidplate for access to the drain plug
 
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blk65brd

Member
Wish I had read this sooner, I would have changed out one less starter, original went bad, second new one lasted about a week, when I removed it it was full of water, couldn't understand how all the water got there. After reading this I removed the plug on the bell housing and the water poured out so problem solved. The starter supplier (DB Electrical) sent a new one and all is good.
 
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Semper-Fi

Member
Very good info to know regarding drain plug in bell housing. So i understand to drill a small hole in the drain plug & add a cotter pin. Good preventive maintenance. Thanks to all.
 
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