IH 300 Utility pump

I have an IH 300 Utility that I use only to cut grass on my property. It has what seems to be a universal problem with this tractor-- The hydraulic pump is leaking into the engine/oil pan.

Have been wondering about blocking the port for this pump and mounting an
electric pump someplace for the hydraulics.

Has anyone done this or attempted it? With the mechanical pump I suppose hydraulic fluid flow changes with the engine speed, but what constant GPM might work if using an electric pump? Or could a two speed pump be used? I'd appreciate any ideas or advice.

Thanks, JohnO.

Leaking Hydraulic Fluid

Before I changed the hydro system to electric I'd simply operate the hydraulics on the same engine oil. I'm sure that suggestion will garner a bunch of warnings related to damage that the engine oil will do. Good, maybe we will both learn what has evaded me for a few years now. For example: I have a post here about a tractor with electric hydraulics taken from a large Merc. outboard engine. The info plate specifically states to use 30wt engine oil for the hydraulics. I have, with no problems so far. When I ask about this issue, such as at the bulk oil store, they don't have specific knowledge about what damage might happen or how long it might take. So, if nobody replys to teach me, I'd consider just adding the engine oil via the hydraulic reservoir unless the leak is major.

Regarding 12V electric pumps, there doesn't have to be a constant flow. I have a switch on my control handle so that I turn the pump on and off when I grip the control. Then I installed a limit switch to prevent over running and doing damage. This answer doesn't deal with flow requirements which you would still have if your electric pump runs constantly. Ya got me there. I presume repairing the pump is not an option with you, but if this is a common problem with that model tractor, somebody may have devised a fix.

Gary- Thanks for posting back.

Yeah, it's a very common problem, and I'm not sure it's worth the ~$400 to get a rebuilt pump that probably won't last. The tractor isn't something I need.

I hadn't thought about combining the engine/hydraulics and using motor oil, but thinking about it now, I don't think it would work. There is so much hydraulic fluid being leaked into the engine that both systems are running on hydraulic fluid pretty much. Been like that for a few years. When the engine fills with hydraulic fluid and the mower won't lift, I drain the pan, pour in 30 wt and then fill the hydraulic reservoir. If I used engine oil all around I'd be running with the engine way way over full.

I only use the tractor about 4/5 times a year, maybe 7/8 hours total. It also has the other problem very common to this make-- worn teeth on the ring gear. About 50% of the time I have to pull it a few inches until the starter finds enough teeth to crank it. The thing was given to me by a guy who got tired of messing with it, and I don't want to sink much cash or effort into a piece of crap that I think was a loser the day it was designed. However, the engine/clutch/trans is strong and the tires are very good.

Seems like it only needs hydraulic pressure when I lift the mower, the clutch works fine even when the hydraulics won't lift the mower, so I think an electric pump with an on/off switch should work. The only gear I use is 1st, and I only lift the mower twice- once going into the field and once when I come out to park it.

I was really hoping to find out what pressure the hydraulics require. If I can't find that info I'll probably buy a fairly low pressure electric pump and try it. With the money I spend now on oil and fluid, I could probably get someone to cut it for me cheaper.

I just spent a few minutes looking at the tractor for the first time in a long while, and I had forgotten a few things. The distributor is turned by the original mechanical pump, so there would be more to the job.. The pump would have to be left in place to run the distributor and it wouldn't run dry forever, I don't know if I'll even mess with it. Around here scrap metal is bringing $7 a hundred pounds right now, so that might be the best option, lol.

Also noticed I had the price wrong in my post above. Prices I just found ~$600 (presume rebuilt), ~$1000 (presume new)

Please, if you're smart DON'T read this!

I can adapt to just about any problem. I don't personally require things to work like new - as long as they work. So, " help me Jesus".....this is a nutty idea that just might work, would be inexpensive and easy.

Replace the oilpan drain plug with a pipe T. Plug the bottom of the T, then come off the T with a line to a small, cheap electric pump. (maybe a used RV water pump, they seem to pop up all the time). Run the plumbing to the reservoir and now and then throw the switch and pump some engine oil. Hell! For that matter you could just use a little hand pump! I'm thinkin' of the little auto parts store type for pumping oil out of an engine in a boat, or sold for starting a siphon.

This is just too much fun. How 'bout drilling a 1/4" hole in the reservoir cap. Stick a piece of doweling into a float. Put the float in the reservoir with the dowel sticking out the cap, then attach something to the top of the dowel to prevent it from getting away if fluid gets too low. Now you can see when it needs a pump or two without waiting for hydraulics to fold or having to remove the cap all the time.

Also, you might try a heavier oil, in hopes it won't leak so quickly.

Lol, That DOES sound kind of crazy but would save money and time. BTW, it's the hydraulic fluid that's leaking into the engine, not the other way around.

I've bookmarked this thread and I'll resurrect it if I try your idea. The first problem I see though is how long will the engine run with hydraulic fluid as a lubricant, or how long will the mower go up and down if I switch to all oil.

Considering the minimal use of the tractor, I fail to see what harm running engine oil in the hydraulics would do. Some hydrostat mowers out there run SAE-30 in the hydros (my Gravely ZTR for example) and my JD525 hydro uses the engine oil (it's a Kawasaki power unit).......'course I'm no tractor mechanic...

crazy again

I understood that the hydro fluid leaked into the tractor, I just talk twisted I suppose. Definitely I would use all engine oil. What might fail...a seal? Seems you already have that problem.

If you can't find a pipe thread to fit the pan, just drill a hole thru the plug and tap it with a tap from Harbor Freight's $15 tap'ndie set. If you're careful they work fine. Use a little cutting oil, I do. 1/8" to 1/4" should work fine.

I die smiling when I picture your tractor with that cockamaime "gauge"!!!

Kanook says he's amused by my nuttiness...glad to see I didn't lose my only fan!

mower up, mower down

If you check out my posts regarding 12V hydraulics and screw drives, you may get some ideas also. I don't know the weight of your mower, but it doesn't sound like it would be a problem if it took 30 sec's for the lift instead of instantly. I say that because my little outboard motor lift pump, zooms to 3,000psi if I close against it. I lift my homemade loader bucket with up to 300lbs of dirt (as I calculate it) and it only uses 1,000psi. Therefore, I have a reserve of power that my tractor could never use. Flow rate is only important according to your nature and time. I'm not in a hurry so if it took 30 seconds I don't care. There are lots of those little units. I also have one that operated the massive trim tabs on my cabin cruiser. Someday I'll test it for power and perhaps use it. Right now I'm more interested in my DC motor screw drives. I also have a post regarding that subject and things to test if the wind and rain dies down here.

It really violates my M.O. to give conventional advice, but I gave the other members time to suggest this, and they didn't, so...
If your tractor has power steering you could T off that system and just leave the original pump in place. If no power steering, you could mount an old pump to run off a belt. I seem to get them for free and have a passel of them, and have experimented in the past. If this can't work perhaps someone will correct me, but it would be simple and cheap.
If you have a PTO that isn't being used you could mount the pump there. Getting the rpms might take a little doing, however. I would go with the belt if it were me.
Back on that whacky idea of pumping engine oil...you could use a cheap air inflation pump into a small collector tank for the transfer. You would have to install a check valve so the oil wouldn't be pumped back into the engine. I used this system for transferring diesel when we toured Alaska and it worked great.