Engine Temperature Gauge readings

NVBadBoy

New member
I've driven the RTV now for several days and for hours at a time at
various speeds and the only time the engine coolant needle on the gauge
seemed to move into the white area of the display was when I was
crawling up a hill with the engine almost at idle speeds. It
barely moved into the white portion of the gage and then almost
immediately went back down to the no reading part. The radiator
is too hot too touch, and the electric fan has yet to kick on.



How hot does it have to get for the needle to move midway into the
gauge and stay there for some time? The fuel gauge is moving as
it should, but the coolant temp gauge seems to move very little.
Is this a norm or what??





NVBadBoy
 

bczoom

Senior Member
Staff member
Gold Site Supporter
NV,</P>


Here's a link that shows how to test the components of the cooling system. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forumfiles/489299-cool4.jpg. I'm not 100% sure, but the fan motor relay may actually be the smaller one to the right of the one that the manual is pointing to. If you can't read it or print, let me know and I'll get you a better copy.</P>


In general, the gauge stays on the cool side. When you work it harder, it'll climb but most of the time it stays pretty low. In the winter here (PA), it'll hardly ever get a reading.</P>


Brian</P>
 

NVBadBoy

New member
bczoom,



thanks for the jpg. It printed just fine. I can see the
needle move up the scale, but like you said, it does stay on the cool
side. I'd rather see the needle fluctuate in the mid range,
rather than spend most of the time on the bottom.



I just wanted to confirm that the readings I've been getting are not
out of the norm, and that this is merely the range for the
thermometer. Next time I'll take Imp for a long run, I'll bring
along my Ohm meter and see what kind of resistance there is at various
speeds.



NVBadBoy
 

bczoom

Senior Member
Staff member
Gold Site Supporter
I don't know what the resistance would be by temperature. The 0 or infinity is the only values I know for this test.</P>


Put 'er under load and you should see the temp rise, otherwise enjoy the fact that it's not the fuel gauge reading empty.</P>
 
G

Guest

Guest
Initial Needle Movement = 190.0 ohms / 120.0 (F) / 4.00 min @ WOT</P>


Initial Needle Movement into White Zone= 133.5 ohms / 140.0 (F) / 8.0 min @ WOT</P>


Initial Needle Movementinto Red Zone = 15.5 ohms / 248.0 (F) of course you should not be able to reach these temps. if the fan is working properly. It usually takes around 20-30 minutes of WOT toactivate the radiator fan.</P>


29 ohms should be around the middle of the scale.</P>


I hear improvements (running changes)to this gauge are on the way and the fan is designed to activate at (201.0 - 212.0 ) F and shut off at (194.0) F.</P>
 

NVBadBoy

New member
Anonymous,



I'd like to know where you obtained this information. Did this
come directly from the shop manual (or from Kutoba) or are these your
own results?



I haven't been able to run WOT because I only have 23 hours on
Imp. Once I change the oil and filters I'll be flooring it and see
what she can do.



That is one improvement that I'll be doing the first time I hear of
it. Hope they publish such improvements on their website.



Thanks for your diligence in finding the measurements for the thermocouple test.





NVBadBoy
 
Top