V4210 complete cabs only $1200

Art454

Member
Guys,
I just talked to someone who has connections at Kubota and he gave me the skinny on the V4210 cabs.
Apparently, the plastic door skins become brittle when it is really cold and can crack if you slam the doors. Kubota decided not to continue making them and the X model has a different cab style. I think it is still a great deal as the roof, front and rear windshields are worth more than what I paid for the who thing. My RTV lives inside when not working, plus now I know, I'll be careful closing the doors when its really cold.
As I already have seen one door skin crack and know how easy it is to remove, I'm going to line the inside of the door skins with FatMat insulation. I've used this many times on classic cars for sound and heat insulation and it works great. I believe the FatMat will make a energy absorbing gasket between the plastic skin and the metal door frame and will provide strength to the larger unsupported areas of the door. I guess as an added bonus there will be more insulation in the door to keep the heat in.
I find it easier to install Fatmat when it's cold as when warm it sticks like crazy and you only get one chance to put it in place.
I'm not sure if I'll have time this weekend to work on this, but I'll document and post some photos of how it went.

You got tape and other options to fix that door.....still a great deal
 

Scott.deitrich

New member
Picked my cab up from Ben earlier this week. He still has some left. Started to install the cab today and will post some pictures tomorrow.
 

brit

New member
Guys,
I just talked to someone who has connections at Kubota and he gave me the skinny on the V4210 cabs.
Apparently, the plastic door skins become brittle when it is really cold and can crack if you slam the doors. Kubota decided not to continue making them and the X model has a different cab style. I think it is still a great deal as the roof, front and rear windshields are worth more than what I paid for the who thing. My RTV lives inside when not working, plus now I know, I'll be careful closing the doors when its really cold.
As I already have seen one door skin crack and know how easy it is to remove, I'm going to line the inside of the door skins with FatMat insulation. I've used this many times on classic cars for sound and heat insulation and it works great. I believe the FatMat will make a energy absorbing gasket between the plastic skin and the metal door frame and will provide strength to the larger unsupported areas of the door. I guess as an added bonus there will be more insulation in the door to keep the heat in.
I find it easier to install Fatmat when it's cold as when warm it sticks like crazy and you only get one chance to put it in place.
I'm not sure if I'll have time this weekend to work on this, but I'll document and post some photos of how it went.

Further to the doors cracking.
I replaced the drivers side door skin with the replacement from Ben and I believe I found the reason the skins are cracking. Unfortunately I did not take any photos, but will fully document when I do the passenger side.
If you look at the door from the inside, you will see that the lower section below the arm rest and door handle mechanism has a black plastic finishing piece, like a door card. This door card is about 1/8" thick and is sandwiched between the door skin and the door frame. My skin cracked at the point where the door card finishes and I believe the 1/8" step is enough to crack the plastic skin.
I installed 2 layers of FatMat on the door frame to make up the 1/8" and also on the larger areas of unsupported plastic skin.
Only time will tell if it works but the drivers side feels more solid and closes with a nice clunck.
I'll hopefully get time this weekend to do the passenger side and I'll take some photos this time and post.
 

Scott.deitrich

New member
Cab installed

Got the cab installed. As for the door skins; both of mine had small cracks near the bottom and one by the door handles. Not sure if I'm going to worry about it yet. I would hate to change them and have them crack again if it's a persistent problem.

Only problem I ran into was the wiper kit. Got it installed using the switchboard in the cab and the motor would not work. Turns out there's a switch on the motor itself. It's always the little things that get you.
 

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brit

New member
I really wanted some mirrors on the cab as there are a few blind spots. After searching the web I found these Honda Pioneer 700 door mirrors that fit reasonably well and work with the doors open and closed.
 

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Wild Bill

Member

Do you use the strapping / webbing to keep the headliner in place?

When I got my cab the headliner was rotated slightly. We had to re-install it using some contact adhesive. Now it falls down about every month. I just push it back up into place and it is good for another month... Oh well.
 

avantiguy

Super Site Supporter
SUPER Site Supporter
Do you use the strapping / webbing to keep the headliner in place?

When I got my cab the headliner was rotated slightly. We had to re-install it using some contact adhesive. Now it falls down about every month. I just push it back up into place and it is good for another month... Oh well.

Bill

That's not a problem with mine but are you using something like 3M 38808 Headliner and Fabric Adhesive. Lesser ones like contact adhesive act like your issue, don't ask how I know.

Secondly, it could also be the fact that that the roof is a composite material and might need roughing and wiping with a solvent like Acetone to help adhesion.

Lastly, I believe you moved your radio antenna. It might be worth while to put a button head bolt through the hole and a washer and nut on the inside.

Sorry if you have already done these things.

Bob
 

Wild Bill

Member
I did just use a standard contact adhesive, so that may very well be the issue. It was a 10:30 at night game time decision. Probably no improving it now that it's on there. It's not to bad in that it is still supported by the fwd to back portions of the ROPS.

I did move the antenna and did plug the original hole with a button head and a nylon washer. I think it is a combination of heat/improper adhesive/gravity that is causing my problem.

Now I know about headliner adhesive for the next time...
 

SVG

Member
Finally installed the cab

After some time I finally was able to install the cab (I recently retired and am able to have an extended stay at my retirement home).
Don’t laugh at the color combo, the price was too good to pass up. I’ll get it vinyl wrapped in Camo this summer.
I went with Black Oak LED’s. A light bar up front and a 4 cell pod in the rear. Very nice units. Also added a strobe for use when snow blowing.
I had the same issue with my headliner that some others had. It detached itself before I installed it so I cleaned everything with acetone then used headliner adhesive to reattach it. It still sags in the cab. Oh well.
I tried to attach my Kubota high rise air filter and discovered it wasn’t designed for this roof. It was designed for the metal roof I swapped out. I’ll have to modify the filter housing mounting bracket and shorten the riser tube a bit to get it to work.

SVG
 

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D&D Farm

Gold Site Supporter
Gold Site Supporter
No matter what the petty nits......it WORKS and that is money in your pocket for lots of other "toys:...........Good JOB....God bless......Dennis
 

avantiguy

Super Site Supporter
SUPER Site Supporter
Mike
Glad you finally got it installed. A fair number of us owe you a hardy thanks for running point on this bargain.
Bob
 
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SVG

Member
Finally got around to coating the orange cab with a DIY bed liner material *(Monstaliner).
Pleased with the outcome.

* No affiliation with this company beyond being a thrice satisfied customer.

Kubota RTV.jpeg
 
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