Up until now, my 1510 started quickly and easily. On a cold morning, I would have to hold the preheat on for 10 seconds. But now in 95 degree weather, I have to hold the preheat on for thirty seconds to get it to start. And today, I ran the battery down trying to start it. Runs fine once started though.
New problem: 1510 is hard starting.
- Thread starter jegssr
- Start date
PaulChristenson
Member
You did change the fuel filter after you discovered you put OIL in your fuel tank??(Based on your statement in other thread)
Engine Starts Hard or Won't Start
1.Air leak on the suction side of the system
2.Fuel too heavy at low temperature
3.Diesel injection nozzles faulty or sticking
4.Incorrect timing
5.Diesel automatic advance is faulty or not operating
6.Water in fuel
7.Filter clogged<<<<I'd start here...
8.Injection pump return fuel line or fittings restricted
9.Low cetane fuel
10.Injection pump 180 degrees out of time
Engine Starts Hard or Won't Start
1.Air leak on the suction side of the system
2.Fuel too heavy at low temperature
3.Diesel injection nozzles faulty or sticking
4.Incorrect timing
5.Diesel automatic advance is faulty or not operating
6.Water in fuel
7.Filter clogged<<<<I'd start here...
8.Injection pump return fuel line or fittings restricted
9.Low cetane fuel
10.Injection pump 180 degrees out of time
... and try filling the fuel filter bowl with fresh diesel. If that fuel starts ok, then dope your tank of oil/diesel with Power Service to improve its start-ability.
There's no need to discard the oil-contaminated fuel so long as you can get the beast started. I would also run this tank down to near-empty so the next tank doesn't continue the hard starting.
There's no need to discard the oil-contaminated fuel so long as you can get the beast started. I would also run this tank down to near-empty so the next tank doesn't continue the hard starting.
The oil-contaminated fuel is long been run through the system. Nothing but fresh fuel resides there now. The fuel filter is not clogged, as the engine runs strong at full throttle after it cranks. The problem that has surfaced is that starting now takes preheat EVERY time I start instead of just in cold weather. And it takes a LOT of preheat.
Ignitor botte? I ain't got no stinkin ignitor bottle! 
How would I identify the ignitor bottle if I have one? I have no bottles with removable caps. I do have a plastic filter-looking thing on top of my engine running from the injectors back to the injector pump, but it has no cap.
What model tractor do you have? That sounds like a Thermostart system. The little bottle feeds fuel to the intake manifold preheater, where the heater uses the fuel for a tiny flame. Earlier Yanmars had a cap on the bottle and you filled it manually. Later, the bottle was replentished from the injector overflow return line. This sounds like what you have.
Mark, is that what you meant by ignitor bottle, or are we talking about something else?
OK, that sounds like I have the late-model Thermostart system. How do I troubleshoot it? It won't start at all now!
Ignitor botte? I ain't got no stinkin ignitor bottle!
OK; that's my Yanny. No glo-plugs, and an injector fed little white bottle. How do I troubleshoot it? It won't start at all now!
The Thermostart is a cold weather assist. You can accomplish the same effect aiming a hairdryer into the air intake. But in mild weather, intake air temperature is probably not the problem.
A diesel needs compression, ignitable fuel, and the proper timing to inject at about TDC.
Timing is almost impossible to get out of whack.
Compression you can judge by how stiff it is to crank over. (And really slow cranking may not provide adequate compression.)
That leaves bad fuel, or no fuel delivery due to a blockage somewhere.
When it won't start, is it cranking at good speed?
Is it blowing unburned fuel mist out the muffler, when it fails to start? That would be nonflammable 'fuel'. (Assuming it has proper compression.)
A diesel needs compression, ignitable fuel, and the proper timing to inject at about TDC.
Timing is almost impossible to get out of whack.
Compression you can judge by how stiff it is to crank over. (And really slow cranking may not provide adequate compression.)
That leaves bad fuel, or no fuel delivery due to a blockage somewhere.
When it won't start, is it cranking at good speed?
Is it blowing unburned fuel mist out the muffler, when it fails to start? That would be nonflammable 'fuel'. (Assuming it has proper compression.)
Further details
I loosened the fuel ines to the injectors. Fuel is coming to the injectors. I took off the intake hose. The Thermostart is working properly. I aimed a heat gun down the intake and it didn't help. It appears to me that even though the throttle arm is working properly, the throttle isn't working. The throttle arm had been very stiff a few weeks ago, and I used PB Blaster to loosen it up and it worked fine. But I suspect the shaft has broken now. I guess I'll have to pull the injector pump.
I loosened the fuel ines to the injectors. Fuel is coming to the injectors. I took off the intake hose. The Thermostart is working properly. I aimed a heat gun down the intake and it didn't help. It appears to me that even though the throttle arm is working properly, the throttle isn't working. The throttle arm had been very stiff a few weeks ago, and I used PB Blaster to loosen it up and it worked fine. But I suspect the shaft has broken now. I guess I'll have to pull the injector pump.
I loosened an injector line and turned the engine over with throttle closed - no fuel came out. I turned it over with throttle open - fuel came out. I'm running out of possible answers.
Wait for Mark to show up here with advice, before you tinker with the injector pump. I've read they are delicate and complicated. (No personal experience!).
I might pick up a diesel compression tester at harbor Freight...
jegssr,
Pretty sure your model has 4 cap screws (10 MM head) that bolt through and cover the inspection port on the side of the injection pump. Remove the cover. With a flashlight you should be able to see a small metering rod...the same rod that won't allow you to remove the pump unless it's disconnected first. IF the rod has come loose you'll have problems like the throttle not responding in any direction....and the tractor will either not start, run at a very low idle or run nearly wide open. If the rod is broken or somehow disconnected you will have to remove the four nuts/washers that fasten the pump down to the timing case cover, reconnect the rod and you should be good to go.
If the rod is not the problem, you might want to remove, clean and inspect the fuel pipe connections at the top of the pump. The "O" rings can split, dirt can trap there, but you would still get fuel to the injectors.
Since you've opened the lines at the injectors and verified you're getting fuel....this can sometimes be a bit deceiving as you need 2175 #'s of fuel pressure (cracking pressures) to open/inject the fuel. I would first check every possible problem related to the fuel, filters and delivery system (all the way back to the tank) before dismantling the pump. The pumps are a very complicated piece of engineering, more moving parts with close tolerances than your entire engine. The hemispherical beveled bears that run on a tiny rack gear are as intricate and a Swiss watch and timing is critical. I have, twice, removed and attempted repairs and both times surrendered them to the specialists at a fuel injection pump rebuilder. ($300. X 2).
Pretty sure your model has 4 cap screws (10 MM head) that bolt through and cover the inspection port on the side of the injection pump. Remove the cover. With a flashlight you should be able to see a small metering rod...the same rod that won't allow you to remove the pump unless it's disconnected first. IF the rod has come loose you'll have problems like the throttle not responding in any direction....and the tractor will either not start, run at a very low idle or run nearly wide open. If the rod is broken or somehow disconnected you will have to remove the four nuts/washers that fasten the pump down to the timing case cover, reconnect the rod and you should be good to go.
If the rod is not the problem, you might want to remove, clean and inspect the fuel pipe connections at the top of the pump. The "O" rings can split, dirt can trap there, but you would still get fuel to the injectors.
Since you've opened the lines at the injectors and verified you're getting fuel....this can sometimes be a bit deceiving as you need 2175 #'s of fuel pressure (cracking pressures) to open/inject the fuel. I would first check every possible problem related to the fuel, filters and delivery system (all the way back to the tank) before dismantling the pump. The pumps are a very complicated piece of engineering, more moving parts with close tolerances than your entire engine. The hemispherical beveled bears that run on a tiny rack gear are as intricate and a Swiss watch and timing is critical. I have, twice, removed and attempted repairs and both times surrendered them to the specialists at a fuel injection pump rebuilder. ($300. X 2).
I pulled the inspection plate - the vertical operating lever at the back of the pump cavity is working fine. I didn't see anything else connected to the shaft. I pulled the muffler to check for coking - none. I cranked the engine with muffler off and a steady flow of diesel mist came out of the exhaust port. I directed propane into the intake and cranked - nothing. I directed a propane flame into the intake - nothing. I sprayed WD-40 into the intake - nothing. I sprayed ether into the intake - a few knocks, but that's it. Compression? That would explain the rapidly increasing difficulty in starting before it finally would not start at all, wouldn't it? Or is there a rod, other than that stamped vertical arm, connecting to the throttle shaft?