Could be be valves out of adjustment? I haven't checked them yet. Engine turning over with the starter sounds like even compression to me. It sounds great when running at all rpms, just shakes.
Here are the instructions for turbo install from sfs:
1. Raise bed and lower cylinder stop.
2. Remove exhaust heat shield.
3. Cut exhaust pipe 2’’ from muffler inlet. See fig 1
4. Remove pipe from manifold.
5. Install bushing over muffler inlet pipe. See fig 1
6. Locate and remove rubber plug at the base of the block, located on drivers side to the rear of oil filter. See fig 3
7. Remove oil pressure sensor, install T fitting, then reinstall sensor. See fig 3 & 4
8. Install turbo adapter manifold using new gasket and original hardware. See fig 5
9. Remove and discard engine lift bracket. See Fig 2
10. Install turbo using three 8x25 SHCS. See fig 6
11. Install oil drain hose and brass fitting into block where plug was removed, make sure that hose has no low spots. (Drain hose needs to be a continuous downward slope). See fig 7
12. Attach braided oil pressure line to T fitting, check that both ends are tight. See fig 7
13. Locate and remove electric stop solenoid on rear of injection pump housing. See Fig 8
14. Locate rubber coated plug for intermediate governor screw below fuel stop solenoid remove and discard plug. See Fig. 9
15. Carefully loosen jam nut without moving screw, back out screw 2-1/2 turns and tighten jam nut, install new 6mm copper washer and acorn nut being careful not to change adjustment. The rubber plug is no longer needed after installation of the copper washer and acorn nut. See Fig 10 and 11
16. Reinstall solenoid being careful not to force plunger into governor linkage. Hold solenoid so that it is lined up with mounting holes and push against light spring pressure until it is flat against housing. While holding solenoid in position, turn bolts in finger tight to keep solenoid from moving, then tighten bolts.
17. Locate full load adjusting screw on governor housing near injection pump. See Fig 12
18. On 2016 and older units: Use Vise-Grip pliers to clamp tamper proof sleeve over nuts. Turn pliers to break screw loose. Remove screw assembly with fingers. Discard sleeve. See Fig 13
On 2017 and newer units: Using a Torx #27 bit socket, drive socket through the top of the tamper proof sleeve until it gets solid, approximately 3/16’’ deep, turn the nut or screw out of the block. Remove screw, 2 copper washers, and jam nut from assembly. Reassemble using new larger copper washers and acorn nut provided, assemble as shown. See fig 14
19. Full load screw adjustment differs depending on altitude and machining tolerances. Final adjustment may take several attempts depending on power needs, transmission efficiency and acceptable smoke levels. If no adjustment is made, turbo will be virtually ineffective. Remember the longer the screw adjustment is the lower fuel delivery and the shorter the screw adjustment is the higher fuel delivery.
20. Adjust screw length. Measure from the end of the screw to the bottom of the copper washer. See fig 14 & 15. A good starting measurement is .650’’. Be careful not to lose large copper washer while removing and installing screw assembly. Jam nuts together securely so adjustment does not change when installing and removing screw assembly.
21. Locate wire harness. Remove and relocate to opposite side of bracket. See fig 16
22. Remove hose from intake.
23. Install 90 boost pipe using 90 1 ½ -1 ¾ reducer hose and 1 ½ x 2 ½ coupler hose , locate pipe so that it is not contacting valve cover or brackets, tighten hose clamps. See fig 17
24. Install 1 ¾ curved hose on to intake side of the turbo, then install 1 ¾ straight pipe into curved hose and the other end into the factory intake hose. See fig 18
25. Position hose as shown in figure 19 and install zip tie.
26. Install exhaust flex pipe onto muffler. See fig 20
27. Install exhaust pipe using 4-8mx20 flange bolts, Install clamps onto exhaust flex pipe. See fig 20
28. x1100 only- install bracket to hold radiator hose and cover flap away from exhaust. See fig 21
29. Remove crankcase vent hose from valve cover and intake manifold. See fig 22
30. Remove PCV cover plate (fig 22), then remove steel retainer with spring from diaphragm (Fig 23), reassemble using diaphragm and cover only.
31. Install cap plug and clamp on manifold and install hose on valve cover nipple and direct to ground. See fig 24
32. Double check that all clamps and fasteners are tight, inspect cables and linkages for obstruction.
33. Cut heat shield as shown and reinstall. See fig 25
TRANSMISSION OPTIMIZATION ADJUSTMENT
1. Remove rear transmission guard by removing three bolts on each side. See fig 26
2. Find tamper proof sleeve located below the transmission oil filter. See fig 27
3. Using Vice-Grip pliers, remove and discard tamper proof sleeve.
4. Located under the tamper proof sleeve is the transmission charge pressure adjustment screw.
5. Loosen jam nut without moving screw, turn screw in 1 - 2 turns and tighten jam nut.
6. Further adjustment may be necessary after being test driven. Turning screw in farther will cause the transmission to be more aggressive, while backing screw out will cause the transmission to be less aggressive.
7. If the engine is under too much load at initial acceleration then the screw will need to be backed out farther. (note that transmission oil temperature will significantly affect transmission performance)
8. After you are satisfied with the way that the transmission is performing, reinstall rear transmission guard.
TRANSMISSION/THROTTLE LINKAGE ADJUSTMENT
1. Locate rockshaft with engine throttle cable and accelerator pedal cable attached. See fig 28
2. Rotate rockshaft forward until it bottoms out, at this point the engine throttle cable should be just getting tight without keeping the rockshaft from bottoming out. See fig 29
3. Adjust engine throttle cable as needed.
4. Adjust foot pedal bolt to stop pedal as cable begins to get tight. See fig 30