X1100C adjusted the HVT more speed

aurthuritis

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OK i finally got out my new workshop manual and started tweeking the 2014 X1100C. what i found is you have to start with the foot peddle. but first you need to find the little cable that pulls the throttle lever on the fuel pump and loosen the jamb nut and then twist the cable threaded end until it comes loose. carefully set it over and out of the way so it doesn't get kinked. then loosen the jamb nut on the peddle stop under the peddle,then screw that stop in a long ways. when that is done take your hand and start to push down on the peddle until the peddle mechanism binds on itself. this plus about a turn is where you want to adjust the stop bolt so you have confirmed you have full travel on the peddle mechanism. then raise the bed if it isn't already and remove the rear plate from above the hitch. on your left is the HST travel lever. i removed the nut and bolt from the rod connected to the lever and lay the rod over just a little. then push the peddle all the way to the stop and either block it there or have someone hold it for you. then take the rod that you just took loose and hold it up to the lever and see if the lever can be moved further to the rear, if you need to unscrew the hiem joint until the bolt will slip in to the hole in the lever with the lever just off of its bottom travel to the rear. it took four turns for me. then allow everything to go back to neutral and screw the cable end of the throttle cable back into its hiem joint and tighten the cable with your fingers by screwing it into the joint. when the cable gets tight enough to lift the throttle lever off of it's stop you unscrew just a little until there is no load on the cable allowing the throttle to set on it's rest. tighten the jamb nuts and your done. start the machine and put into gear and confirm that you have no creep. just barely bump the throttle and it should start to move but be completely in bypass when the engine is idling. if it doesn't act right then give the joint on the HST travel lever a turn in moving the lever slightly forward. i can now get 24 on soft dirt road with about 400 lbs in back and soft tires from 18 MPH
MAKE THESE ADJUSTMENTS AT YOUR OWN RISK.
 
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aurthuritis

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Mods please change the title of the thread to"X1100C adjusted the HVT more speed" i mistakenly left out the X in X1100c.
 
Will you make a video? Would make it much easier to see what exactly you’re talking about. I can do 25-26 going down a hill and maybe 24once it warms up. I think the bigger tires help for some reason though

Brett
 

aurthuritis

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Will you make a video? Would make it much easier to see what exactly you’re talking about. I can do 25-26 going down a hill and maybe 24once it warms up. I think the bigger tires help for some reason though

Brett

A video? i can barely run a flip phone:bonk: it really isn't that complicated once you start. it all starts with get full travel out of your foot peddle then adjust HST valve then hook up the throttle cable and adjust. it puts the torque of the engine where it needs to be and gives all the HVT has at the pressure it is set at. the next project will be to check and adjust the charge pressure so the pumps can work more efficiently.:harley:
 

aurthuritis

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i decided to re write this for clarity

1. take the four bolts out of the rear plate that protects the filters. this plate is just above the hitch. look to your left and you will see the HVT speed lever attached to a heim joint and rod leading up at an angle. remove the bolt attaching the rod and heim joint to the lever.

2. raise the bed without starting the machine by placing the lift lever in float and raising by hand and secure with the safety.

3.find the throttle cable attached to the governor arm of the injection pump. loosen the jamb nut and unscrew the cable from the heim joint.

4.on the floor of the cab under the foot peddle there is a bolt that restricts travel of the peddle. this is the peddle stop screw. loosen the jamb nut and turn the bolt in a long way so it is out of the way.

5.push down on the peddle until the full travel of the peddle bottoms out. adjust the stop screw up until the stop screw hits the bottom of the peddle just before it bottoms out. have someone hold the peddle against the stop and go to step 6

6.go to the back of the machine and look at the HVT speed lever. compare the rod length to the lever travel and adjust the heim joint by loosening the jamb nut and turning the heim out until the HST speed lever is at full travel less just a little bit. "never run against the stop".

7.tighten the bolt holding the heim joint to the HST speed lever and tighten the jamb nut on the control rod.

8.let the peddle go back to the idle position. reattach the throttle cable to its heim joint and turn in until the cable tightens and then adjust it back a little so the cable isn't tight. you want the throttle stop on the governor control lever to rest on the stop and not be held by the cable. tighten the jamb nut on the throttle control cable.

9. push the peddle down against the stop and have someone hold it there for you. look at the throttle control cable again but now it should be at max travel and the throttle control arm should be against the max revolution stop.

10. check everything by cycling the foot peddle and making sure the HVT speed lever is at full travel at the same time the governor lever on the injection pump hits the high limit stop. if the governor control cable hits the stop before the HVT speed lever can make full travel then adjust the Throttle cable a little looser until the HVT speed lever is at full travel without putting to much tension on the throttle control cable. they both should hit max at the same time.

11.reassemble the rear plate put down the bed start your engine and enjoy.
 

aurthuritis

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i have about 70 miles on it since i made the adjustments. things i have noticed are the peddle is much more responsive. when i push down to go the machine starts to roll within the first 1/4 inch of peddle movement and the engine responds the same. i think the engine torque is more closely timed to the movement of the swash plates now all the way through the range. i also have noticed on a hill the machine has more residual power and slows less than before and the engine doesn't lug on hills anymore. i think the next adjustment will be to the charge pressure relief valve. i want to check and see if the charge pressure is below spec and i would guess that it is.
 

Alaskanassasin

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First of all that’s a crap load of miles in 2 days... for me anyways, jealous... second I was playing with my “gas pedal”, I didn’t put a tape to it but it felt like it was depressing about 2 inches before anything happened.
 

aurthuritis

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First of all that’s a crap load of miles in 2 days... for me anyways, jealous... second I was playing with my “gas pedal”, I didn’t put a tape to it but it felt like it was depressing about 2 inches before anything happened.

wow 2 inches! raise the bed and shut off the engine then press the peddle and look through the back glass. you should see the silver colored cross shaft start to move as soon as the peddle moves. the passenger side of the shaft controls the fuel injection pump and the drivers side controls the HVT speed lever via a control rod that runs down at an angle to the rear of the machine. if the peddle moves,everything moves. in unison
 

Alaskanassasin

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MY foot lied 3/4” before something happens... trying to clean a hole through the shop so I can get it in and a 200hr service
 

Alaskanassasin

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This is very curious too. If it is in reverse and I only pull the hand throttle wide open the buggy creeps forward. If I put it h and pull the hand throttle it rolled backwards
 

aurthuritis

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yea your HVT lever needs adjusted . the direction is a function of the gear transmission coupled to the HVT. your HVT is creeping. i would wager that your peddle travel is to short and you HVT lever is adjusted to long. when you get things balanced you will be surprised in the performance change.
 

hondajoe

Member
Tuning RTV

Well iam glad your doing what your doing this is what iam talking about.I have done most of your adjustments.This makes a lot of difference in performance the dealers seem not to know.As far as the Alaskan after the adjustments his unit will shift better he should be able to put it in gear and pull hand throttle all the way out in gear and it should not move.As far as pressure I think mine is low also I have not had time to check.When you get done your unit will run as advertised and you will be happer with it.After adjustments a hill I thought almost killed me it walked right up.I had a demo unit and it run much better then mine some one must of messed with it but it would not start in neutral and the dealer said I did not know how to start it.Well this one has started every time so he must be wrong.Mine will run as rated 25 26 good tuning JOE
 

Alaskanassasin

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Pulled a 200 hour service... everything cool there except changing the hydro tank fluid (under the seat), it took almost 5 gallons!!! A bucket of that stuff was around $118 and the fluid I took out looked perfect! Oh well these things aren’t cheap so I followed their recommendations.

Thanks for the beakdown on hst adjustments! I followed your second description of what needs doin and everything went great except #5, my pedal had no stop and basically would roll the cam over on the linkage arm on top of the motor, so I adjusted the pedal stop (bolt) to where the cam was fully rolled over but not to the point of no return, if that makes sense.
End result was a peppy machine! I know cables stretch and they are located all over the rtv so I suppose we will never be done adjusting.
Thanks again
 

Alaskanassasin

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Also while servicing I took the floor mat out to check for moisture on the floor pan and everything was nice and dry. After sees some floors being rebuild on this forum I plan to keep a eye on that!
 

aurthuritis

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Pulled a 200 hour service... everything cool there except changing the hydro tank fluid (under the seat), it took almost 5 gallons!!! A bucket of that stuff was around $118 and the fluid I took out looked perfect! Oh well these things aren’t cheap so I followed their recommendations.

Thanks for the beakdown on hst adjustments! I followed your second description of what needs doin and everything went great except #5, my pedal had no stop and basically would roll the cam over on the linkage arm on top of the motor, so I adjusted the pedal stop (bolt) to where the cam was fully rolled over but not to the point of no return, if that makes sense.
End result was a peppy machine! I know cables stretch and they are located all over the rtv so I suppose we will never be done adjusting.
Thanks again


that's interesting. what year is your machine?
 
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