Grill Guard and Bumper

[Bindian]

Here are a few photos of my bumper and grill guard mods. First and second photos show the first mod I did. I added 1/2" strap for more protection and bracing. The 3rd photo is the bumper and grill right from the factory. The last 3 photos show the expanded steel I cut and bent (at work) to fit and had welded up. No more dings in my grill from getting too close to a pile of brush.
hugs, Brandi

 

[Dougster]

Here are a few photos of my bumper and grill guard mods. First and second photos show the first mod I did. I added 1/2" strap for more protection and bracing. The 3rd photo is the bumper and grill right from the factory. The last 3 photos show the expanded steel I cut and bent (at work) to fit and had welded up. No more dings in my grill from getting too close to a pile of brush.
hugs, Brandi

Now why can't Jeremy make a nice, clean-fitting one like that for my 4110??? Why have I got to worry about those silly "ears"???

Did you do the welding on that 1/2" strap? Looks professional!

Dougster

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Looks good Brandi. I should consider putting some bars in the upper part of my grill guard. I've come close to disaster a few times. Has anybody thought about why everybodys grill guards need help. Are the designers like most, never done what they design for. In other words, have no idea what they are doing. Anyway, pics look good.

 

[Bindian]

Now why can't Jeremy make a nice, clean-fitting one like that for my 4110??? Why have I got to worry about those silly "ears"???

Did you do the welding on that 1/2" strap? Looks professional!

Dougster

Dougster,
I don't have a welder. The welding shop I use has a guy dedicated to drop in jobs. There are about 25-30 welders there working contract jobs. I never have to wait long. I asked how much after the expanded steel was welded on and he said, "Oh, five or ten dollars". I gave him ten.
What ears are you referencing?
hugs, Brandi

 

[Bindian]

Looks good Brandi. I should consider putting some bars in the upper part of my grill guard. I've come close to disaster a few times. Has anybody thought about why everybodys grill guards need help. Are the designers like most, never done what they design for. In other words, have no idea what they are doing. Anyway, pics look good.

Thanks Brian. If I did it over again, I would go with pipe instead of the 1/2" strap. I already bent the strap and had to take the sledge hammer to it. I thought I would have to cut out holes in the expanded steel for the R&R of the headlights, but I think there is room to remove them between the grill guard and the grill. I think the factory grill guard is fine for loading trucks, but working close to brush burn piles, you need everything I put on mine and maybe more. It would be nice to have all the stuff we add to our tractors come from the factory as options.
hugs, Brandi

 

[Dougster]

Dougster, I don't have a welder. The welding shop I use has a guy dedicated to drop in jobs. There are about 25-30 welders there working contract jobs. I never have to wait long. I asked how much after the expanded steel was welded on and he said, "Oh, five or ten dollars". I gave him ten. What ears are you referencing?
hugs, Brandi

Once again... the beauty of living down in the Lone Star state! No way anybody up here welds anything anymore for $5 or $10. And yes, that would even be if I sent my GF in with the part to get the "cute blond" discount!!!

The old 4110 grill guard could only be used on a tractor without a front end loader. Since I have a loader, I was SOL.

Since that time, KMW has produced a new grill guard for the 4110 that can be used with a front end loader. Unfortunately, it cannot be backfitted onto my machine unless I add some "ears" to the front FEL mount or replace that old front mount with the new "ears included" design.

Dougster

 

[Bindian]

Once again... the beauty of living down in the Lone Star state! No way anybody up here welds anything anymore for $5 or $10. And yes, that would even be if I sent my GF in with the part to get the "cute blond" discount!!!

The old 4110 grill guard could only be used on a tractor without a front end loader. Since I have a loader, I was SOL.

Since that time, KMW has produced a new grill guard for the 4110 that can be used with a front end loader. Unfortunately, it cannot be backfitted onto my machine unless I add some "ears" to the front FEL mount or replace that old front mount with the new "ears included" design.

Dougster

Dougster,
So you are ear less?
hugs, Brandi

 

[Dougster]

Dougster,
So you are ear less?
hugs, Brandi

Most folks would say "penniless" and/or "clueless"... but it is a fact: I am "earless" as well.

BTW, here are two shots of a newer 2006 4110 showing the new design Front FEL support with the "ears" added for attaching the new grill guard.

Also attached is a shot of the old grill guard on an older 4110 sans FEL front mount.

Dougster

 

[Dougster]

Just took a close-up shot of my old style mount so you can see the difference (i.e., with first shot above) and what would need to be added.

Note that this is also where I chain my tractor down in front when transporting... resulting in obvious wear and a little spot rust. It is not clear to me if the tractor could still be as easily and effectively chained down with the new style front FEL mount in place. The hood latch could also interfere with the hefty 3/8" chain if one is not very careful threading it through the mount and front FEL brace.

Dougster

p.s., and NO... this obviously does not meet the Bill6 Standard of Excellence in tractor care and maintenance. -d

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Doug, this is in no way a put down, but only a reality confirmation. The Bill6 Standard of Excellence is unobtainable for anybody that actually uses their tractor for more than mowing. We all know that and know that some try, but it is a futile goal. Anybody that uses their tractor professionally has to accept the reality of some scratched paint and rust. Should we say that it is a fact of life whether we like it or not. There is no need for you to be embarrassed to show pics that indeed show that you use your tractor.

 

[Dougster]

Doug, this is in no way a put down, but only a reality confirmation. The Bill6 Standard of Excellence is unobtainable for anybody that actually uses their tractor for more than mowing. We all know that and know that some try, but it is a futile goal. Anybody that uses their tractor professionally has to accept the reality of some scratched paint and rust. Should we say that it is a fact of life whether we like it or not. There is no need for you to be embarrassed to show pics that indeed show that you use your tractor.

As an admirer, true believer and dedicated disciple of Bill6 and the Bill6 Standard of Excellence in tractor care and maintenance, of course I am going to be a little embarrassed by paint wear and rust showing on my machine... even if it is at a chain tie-down wear point. I had meant to file, clean and touch-up all of those tie-down wear points before winter, but never got around to it. It's not like I just came off a nasty job yesterday. This is the winter storage condition... and there is no excuse. Clearly, it should have been addressed.

Dougster

 

[mobilus]

Brandi, another area of concern with brush piles and such is with your tie rods. They're exposed on the front of the axle, like mine were. I had my loader up, pushing over a dead mequite, when I ran into a stump that I didn't even see.

It looks like yours run closer to the axle than mine, and that may serve to lessen the amount of bend possible. But mine was a mess, and I ended up replacing it. I'll take a picture of the "bumper" I made and post it later. I still need to put some expanded metal in my brushguard though. Yours looks good though.

 

[Bindian]

Just took a close-up shot of my old style mount so you can see the difference (i.e., with first shot above) and what would need to be added.

Note that this is also where I chain my tractor down in front when transporting... resulting in obvious wear and a little spot rust. It is not clear to me if the tractor could still be as easily and effectively chained down with the new style front FEL mount in place. The hood latch could also interfere with the hefty 3/8" chain if one is not very careful threading it through the mount and front FEL brace.

Dougster

p.s., and NO... this obviously does not meet the Bill6 Standard of Excellence in tractor care and maintenance. -d

Dougster,
Just paint the chain wear rust marks. The chain will just wear it again later, but it would look okay now for winter storage. If I had you loader setup, I would poke two holes in your loader mount and bolt a grill guard in. Just a simple rectangle frame with bracing and a grill. You could let it rest on your loader mount. I am sure you could find the steel at Ed's. I know you won't be attacking some large brush pile with your loader up and ready to dump, so a simple frame and expanded steel should work.
Mobilus,
The tie rod is about 20 inches back from the leading edge of the bumper/grill guard. Also, it goes behind the front axle front pivot mount. When I come up on a pile, I have straight front wheels and "square" with the pile, not on an angle. So my tie rod is pretty much protected. You can see that is so in the 4th photo. You have to remember, my front tires are huge and usually hit the brush pile before the bumper/grill guard comes close. Usually. Usually it is a large odd stump with strange shaped roots sticking out that are the real threat for the grill.
hugs, Brandi

 

[Dougster]

Dougster, Just paint the chain wear rust marks. The chain will just wear it again later, but it would look okay now for winter storage. If I had you loader setup, I would poke two holes in your loader mount and bolt a grill guard in. Just a simple rectangle frame with bracing and a grill. You could let it rest on your loader mount. I am sure you could find the steel at Ed's. I know you won't be attacking some large brush pile with your loader up and ready to dump, so a simple frame and expanded steel should work.

Believe it or not, the FEL's front brace protrudes a bit on both sides and is quite a grill guard all by itself. It has already saved me countless times and mucho hood & grill repair dollars! I never really understood why KMW didn't just run some horizontal bars across the front of the front brace... and presto! Instant grill guard!

Or maybe Jeremy knows of some reason why that would be foolish and/or unacceptable.

But back to your other point, I have yet to figure out how to use that new KMW grill guard without buying the new front mount (with the ears) or welding some identical ears onto my old style front mount. I don't see any other good alternative way to do it.

Dougster

 

[shinnlinger]

Thanks Brandi,

One of these day I am gonna build me a guard for my machine and you may have just infuenced it.

I was always going to put expanded wire on it, but then looked at factory guards and saw that they didn't bother, so why should I? BUt now it appears I should bother. I have redesigned the tihng in my head at least 5 times now.

I will probably put a taller auxliary light mount on mine so the lights shine OVER the bucket not directly into the back of it. For a while it appeared as if Kubota had not considered that CUTs might end up with FELs on them and placed the headlight accordingly. I think they have fixed the problem now, but it took them over 2 decades to do it.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

For a while it appeared as if Kubota had not considered that CUTs might end up with FELs on them and placed the headlight accordingly. I think they have fixed the problem now, but it took them over 2 decades to do it.

It's not good to rush into anything you know. They just wanted to be sure to do it right the 2nd time.

 

[Bindian]

Thanks Brandi,

I will probably put a taller auxliary light mount on mine so the lights shine OVER the bucket not directly into the back of it. For a while it appeared as if Kubota had not considered that CUTs might end up with FELs on them and placed the headlight accordingly. I think they have fixed the problem now, but it took them over 2 decades to do it.

Shinnlinger,
The extra lights should help. Look again at my first photo and you will see how Mahindra tried to address that problem with the 6520/7520. They put two more lights up above the hood. They work okay, but not the best. When I am traveling at night, I have them all on and raise the bucket just enough and angle the bucket so the lower lights reflect off of the bottom of the bucket and shine down more and forward. It isn't the best, but better. The top lights seem to act more like high beams.
hugs, Brandi

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Brandi, have you ever tried to drive with the top (cowl) lights only?

 

[Bindian]

Brandi, have you ever tried to drive with the top (cowl) lights only?

Brian,
Yes, it seems all the lights are good for in front is driving. I haven't tried doing any loader dirt work after dark yet. I have filled a few stump holes backdragging, but that is about all. I am installing two flood lights on the back of my canopy for BH use after dark. That is, as long as the mosquitos stay away. I should have the wiring finished tomorrow. Just backhoe work is fun after dark. The rest can wait until the next day.
hugs, Brandi

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Brian,
Yes, it seems all the lights are good for in front is driving. I haven't tried doing any loader dirt work after dark yet. I have filled a few stump holes backdragging, but that is about all. I am installing two flood lights on the back of my canopy for BH use after dark. That is, as long as the mosquitos stay away. I should have them wiring finished tomorrow.
hugs, Brandi

The reason I asked is that I feel that they are pretty much worthless. I'm going to mount some lights on the front of my canopy and use the cowl light switch. Hey, have you seen the hoes that have lights mounted on the top portion of the stick section of the back hoe. Seems like that would work very good for night time digging.
Are you still going to Tulare?