06 RTV 900 no lights to fuel gauge

Andy578

New member
Changed the alternator along with it's slow blow fuse and now I don't have any headlights or tail lights and the fuel gauge is staying on empty. Lights on the dash work along with all gauge lights except the fuel gauge. Everything in the fuse box checks out and the switch has power on both sides.

Any ideas?
 
Did you find a resolution yet?
Just a heads-up, in my experience, the fuel gauge on the older models are prone to failure. I'd guess I'm on my 3rd one and it too is dead.
I'd focus on the headlights/taillights. If the fuel gauge does come back on, all the better but the gauge may just be dead.

Since I don't have a working fuel gauge, I just use the hour meter to tell me when to fuel up. The RTV can easily get 10 hours of run time per tank so I just refill when the hour meter's single digit reaches 0. E.g. Fill at 500 hours, 510, 520...
 
Did you find a resolution yet?
Just a heads-up, in my experience, the fuel gauge on the older models are prone to failure. I'd guess I'm on my 3rd one and it too is dead.
I'd focus on the headlights/taillights. If the fuel gauge does come back on, all the better but the gauge may just be dead.

Since I don't have a working fuel gauge, I just use the hour meter to tell me when to fuel up. The RTV can easily get 10 hours of run time per tank so I just refill when the hour meter's single digit reaches 0. E.g. Fill at 500 hours, 510, 520...
I haven't had time to get back to it but i discovered all the light bulbs blew. I think the alternator sent a surge through everything. Aside from the big slow blow fuse the only other one that popped was the 15a for the engine shutoff. Wiring all seems fine just bulbs and gauges are dead. Hopefully that's all there is.
 
I'm not very knowledgeable about engine wiring but shouldn't there be a voltage regulator there to stop that surge? I wonder if your voltage regulator has failed.
What was the fault that made you replace the alternator? Could it have been the voltage regulator was the issue (or still is?).
If you have a volt meter, with the engine running, what's the voltage at connectors like the headlights or other components?
 
I'm not very knowledgeable about engine wiring but shouldn't there be a voltage regulator there to stop that surge? I wonder if your voltage regulator has failed.
What was the fault that made you replace the alternator? Could it have been the voltage regulator was the issue (or still is?).
If you have a volt meter, with the engine running, what's the voltage at connectors like the headlights or other components?
Honestly not sure what failed on it but it was draining the battery for a few months so I knew it needed to be replaced eventually. Last week it blew that 50amp fuse and apparently took a bunch of other stuff with it. The smaller fuses should have protected their circuits but they didn't and they'll all be getting replaced too.

New alternator seems perfectly fine and every wire I've checked has 12v so the wiring itself seems ok. Added new headlight bulbs an hour ago and they work fine. I'm a bit worried there could be other less obvious things such as sensors. Hopefully get a new water gauge this weekend
 
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