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As I see it, one photo clearly shows the words in and out cast into the back plate of the pump. The suction and pressure lines are clearly reversed in this case. The pump is never going to work properly in this orientation. Sorry, but you blew it.

I guess there might a number things you're missing, although a relief valve is probably not part of your problem. Let's go back to the pumps. The first pump could easily have failed and transferred oil into the engine. Very common condition, for a number of reasons. The new pump with reversed...

No. It's a computer controlled power shuttle. Therein lies the problem.

Just guessing here, but "running bad" and gauges acting up at the same time. I have no specifics for what the problem might be, but with a common rail fuel system I'm sure steady system voltage is required. I'm betting you have a power connection or ground issue somewhere.

Assuming the other gauges are still working(?) you can expect the problem is not fuse related. I have no idea how much fun it will be, but the starting point for me would be the fuel sender wire at the tank. I would suggest removing the wire, watching the gauge and "flashing" the wire to ground...

Having never seen (or worked on) a 2032 I have no personal experience to share. However, the symptoms you describe are indeed common to many many other makes and models. The first question I would have is what drives this thing? I'd be looking in this direction...

First thing that comes to mind is too much fluff and crud build up in the radiator fins. With all the crap they put in front of the radiators on tractors any more, battery, air filter, framework, ETC, it's a major job to actually reach the radiator to blow it out. Just wiping the stuff off the...

Unfortunately, every tractor maker has different ideas on how to power all those circuits. Some like to tie a seat switch, neutral switch, park brake switch, PTO switch, and sometime more into the mix. It could be as simple as a bad fuse, but something doesn't want the tractor to run. An...

The one above the hydraulic pump looks promising. The three wires involved will be 1) ground 2) hot with starter 3) hot with key switch on. You might check that out.

Next time you go out there open the hood and look in the right front corner of the engine. There should be a fuel shut off solenoid on the radiator side of engine timing cover. Just in front of the injection pump. A cylinder looking thing about three inches long or so with wires and harness...

You can but I don't. I put the pump so it pulls straight from the tank. Hasn't hurt one yet.

Okay, I think we can rule out the timing for now and get back to fuel restriction. Your tractor will be particularly vulnerable to that due to where they put the fuel tank. One thing I learned early on is to replace the el cheapo fuel lines Mahindra uses. Simply cut through the crimp sleeves and...

Not necessarily. What you described is indeed a common symptom these injection pumps can (and will) exhibit under certain conditions of fuel starvation. Except for one thing. The fifteen minutes. Fuel restrictions don't come and go every fifteen minutes. Having seen this condition (and...

Should be only one plug. It's a manifold heater element, not a glow plug. The heater is not the problem, rather it's the control circuit for it.

The manifold heater should not be smoking whether in use or not, and certainly not be in play with engine stopped and key switch off. Must be a relay or something shorted out. You should remove the wire from the heater (and probably disconnect the battery as well) until you get it sorted out.

Logic doesn't enter into this. I have a friend with an M105P who found someone to do a delete. This guy had the tractor for like six months and charged about $3000 but he got it done and apparently the tractor runs a lot better now. As far as I know there have been no problems from the procedure.

Which shifter? Shuttle lever or speed change lever? If it's the speed change lever crawl under and look at the shift linkage from below. look for items 8 and 9 on this diagram. If that's all working properly you may have a sheared roll pin somewhere. That happens on occasion...

Absolutely. First confirm that the solenoid coil is grounded, then apply battery voltage to the start terminal (the spade or post the key switch start wire attaches to). A working solenoid will engage and the starter will crank the engine. Just hearing a click "somewhere" doesn't answer all the...

No wonder you have problems. The wiring situation could well be the reason the original solenoid went bad in the first place. Hitachi is a name brand machine, so can you find a proper wiring diagram to match the unit? Or have you already tried that route and come up empty? I've seen other...

'Gets real hot" using what? The machine's wiring or the battery jumper wire? If it has three wires (one being ground) then which of the other two pulls it in and which one holds it in? Only the hold circuit should be powered with key switch on. The other is more momentary, like when starter is...