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My guess is you're reading voltage with the wire disconnected because the current has nowhere to go. When you put it back on the starter and there is a load on the circuit the signal drops off. Weak signal for whatever reason. Try the relay. See what that gets you. I've done it many times on all...

What terminals are you jump starting? Are you applying battery voltage to the terminal you removed the key switch signal wire from? That's the way to accurately assess your starter's function. If the starter works "first time every time" when tested this way, then your start signal is NOT...

Looks like the transmission neutral switch. Safety concerns about using the tractor with switch disabled? None. With the possible exception of the operator aggravation circuit, which kills the engine if the seat switch opens, the PTO is on, and the neutral switch is open. (which if bypassed, it...

You need to adjust the switches so they are both closed when the levers are at rest. Should be fairly simple.

I understand where the fluid comes from and I understand where it's going. My point is the only way that can happen is a problem within the hydraulic pump. The loader working or not working is a different problem. He will need to address the pump issue first, then deal with the other problem.

What does that have to do with the problem in question?

I think he has two separate but somehow related issues. The steering and hydraulics are two totally separate systems. The only point in common is the hydraulic pump. The front section of the pump is hydraulics, the rear section is steering. The front pump is allowing fluid to transfer to the...

I doubt you will get many replies documenting similar failures. Kubota has used that basic design on front axles in most all of the larger M series tractors for years with good success. Many of the same parts in that assembly are also used in tractors as far back as the M9000, probably older...

That's interesting. Where is this exciter wheel? Most engine speed sensors read from one of the timing gears or the flywheel ring gear. I'm not very familiar with 1000 series Perkins engines.

Typically there are only two wires involved. The sensor is basically a coil of wire wound around a core. As a gear tooth passes in close proximity to that core it creates a small charge in the coil which is transmitted through those two wires. No outside voltage is needed for that. What happens...

That won't help. The sensor generates a signal which is fed into the system. Joining the wires together will only confuse the issue. I agree that getting it to read properly is probably the next logical step. I don't know the tractor so I can't tell you if the computer is reading from the sensor...

So the tach registers "something" (not necessarily accurately) and then the tractor moves? When it does move how does the shuttle react? If you shift from forward to reverse and back does it change direction smoothly like it should or what happens? If a speed sensor is the problem it should...

The sensor is involved in that the computer monitors engine RPM, ground speed, and probably other internal shafts and gears to compare input and output. Based on that it decides whether or not to engage the transmission, and also to modulate clutch engagement. My impression was the tractor will...

First off, I don't think this is the right site for you. Major traffic here is ATV's not tractors. That said, your two symptoms are probably unrelated. The tach sensor most likely works on magnetic impulses generated by gear teeth passing near a wire coil so it will never see 12 volts from...

I would imagine most all of this is available. You just need to get the tractor serial number and the right page of the parts book. https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/3242/referrer/navigation/pgId/1618302

John Deere manual (even the often mistrusted I&T version) gives pretty detailed instruction on the valve stack assembly, including the shims. If you own the tractor, why not own the manual? I'm not sure what your interpretation of "more slop" amounts to. A certain amount of movement is...

Hot to touch says you have a leak in there. Possibly one of those O rings, possibly in one of the valves. No way to know from the outside.

What exactly did you buy? A complete unit, valve, casting, piston and all that? Or just a replacement valve assembly? Just a side note. I fought the six O rings in the column for about 4 or 5 hours one day and finally decided I wasn't going to get them into place. The local Deere dealer shop...

Buying a new column was the first mistake. Putting the new valve into the old column was (probably) the next mistake. Go back to the valve assembly you started with and let's revisit that. These days "new" isn't necessarily better.

Assuming this is a 4WD tractor? If so, you might want to crawl under it and look at the driveline shield. It's probably the telescopic tube type. They are well known to cause a squeak or squeal if they get damaged, shoved sideways, etc during use in rough country.